We’ve had a very warm October this year, so I’ve postponed the task of planting spring bulbs from one Saturday to another until November rolled around. 

On the one hand, my fingers were itching to start digging and get bulbs in the ground. But on the other hand, I knew that biding my time now would make a difference in the quality of my spring blooms. Like a lot of gardening tasks, what we do (or don’t do) when we plant bulbs will influence the result come springtime. For better or for worse. 

Putting bulbs in soil that was still warm would have been a mistake. One that I’ve made before and I’m committed not to repeat. 

Here are a few other mistakes we should avoid when we’re planting spring bulbs. And yes, most of them I’ve made – and learned from – myself.

1. Waiting too long to order your bulbs.

Friends, I’ve been there and done that so many times. I’m not saying you should pounce on that first bag of bulbs the minute it lands on the shelf at your local gardening center. But don’t procrastinate on getting your bulb order in either. 

I’ve been ordering organic bulbs from the same online vendor every year. They’re not the grower, but they work with the growers to only get quality bulbs for their online store. 

Due to the organic growing method, not all the bulbs can be super-standardized. The vendor tries, as much as possible, to add only high-quality bulbs to every order they receive. But it’s unavoidable that at the end of the selling season (often late November or early December), they are mostly left with the runts. In the interest of avoiding waste, they sell the seconds at a discount. But then it’s up to you to take chances with what you’re planting. 

Another reason to get your bulb order placed early is because less common bulbs will sell out early. Sure, I could order tulip bulbs all season long. But when it comes to more niche ones (such as camassia, fritillaria or chionodoxa, for example), vendors only get in a limited amount. Once they’re gone, they’re gone. 

2. Planting your bulbs too early in the fall. 

Ok, you got your gardening tasks super organized, set a reminder, and bought your spring bulbs early. Straight in the ground they go, right? Hold your spade! 

You can plant spring bulbs from September until December. BUT (and it’s a big BUT!), the soil needs to have cooled enough when you do it. For optimum blooms next year, your bulbs need to be planted at a temperature that constantly stays below 60F (about 16C). Lower than that is ok too, but higher might become problematic. 

First of all, the warm soil might trick some spring bulbs into starting to sprout prematurely. Then the cold, freeze and snow will damage that young growth and rob you of a flower next spring. Some bulbs might flower again the following spring, but will do so on secondary growth that won’t be too robust. 

Another reason why planting in warm soil isn’t a good idea is because of a disease called tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae). It is a fungal disease that causes the tulip leaves to grow twisted and distorted. It also affects the flowers. An infected bloom will either not open at all or open already rotted. Damp and warm soil encourages the proliferation of this fungus; so the more patient you are for the weather to turn cold, the better. 

3. Thinking it’s too late to plant bulbs and putting it off until next year. 

Listen, I can’t predict the winning lottery numbers. But for what it’s worth, I can accurately predict one thing. In December, there will be at least five posts in my local gardening Facebook group with one theme in common: I found this bag of bulbs in a corner of my garage/attic/shed/basement. Is it too late to plant them?

To which the replies will start pouring in. Yes, get them in the ground! Don’t throw them out! Don’t wait until next year! All is not lost! What can I say, we’re not a high drama group, but we hate seeing good bulbs go to waste. 

In my opinion, one bulb in the ground is worth two in the bag. And if your ground hasn’t frozen over – meaning if you can still dig – go ahead and plant those bulbs. Who cares if it’s Christmas Eve?! Sneak out while you’re waiting for Santa and plant them bulbs. Most spring bulbs will need eight to ten weeks of cold temperatures for an optimum bloom. But even less time in the ground is better than no time in the ground.

As far as I’m concerned, it’s better to err on the side of planting late in the year than planting too early (see previous mistake). If you’re planting late, give the bulbs a good mulch to keep the temperature and humidity even. This will encourage the plants to grow feeder roots that will start sustaining the bulbs until spring. 

4. Planting them where you want them, not where they’ll thrive. 

Location, location, location may make you think of a real estate broker, but it’s also a good rule of thumb to follow when we’re talking about planting. And the old saying “right plant in the right place” very much applies to bulbs. 

Not all bulbs have the same needs, so planting the right bulb in the right place can help us maximize the flower display while at the same time shaving off hours of maintenance work. 

Here’s what this philosophy applies to spring bulbs.

Woodland bulbs will thrive and perennialize if you plant them in a location that resembles that in which they grow in the wild. That means half-shade or full shade. Plant them under a tree or hedge canopy or along a wall or fence that protects them from full sun. 

A few examples of woodland bulbs include crocuses, snowdrops, bluebells, chionodoxa, wood anemone, camassia and botanical tulips.  

On the other hand, bulbs that put on a very showy display of flowers will always need more sun and more heat. That’s why you should always aim for as sunny a location as possible for bulbs such as tulips and hyacinths. 

5. Not planting the bulbs deep enough.

I think that there’s often a bit of confusion between these two pieces of information:

• Plant the bulb deep enough to protect it from cold vs.
• Bulbs need at least eight to ten weeks of cold in order to flower properly in spring. 

So let me try to clear that up. We’re planting the bulbs deep enough not necessarily to protect them from cold. But to protect them from variations in temperature. That also includes shielding them from temperature spikes that would trigger premature sprouting in winter. 

Another reason why it’s better to err on the side of planting them too deeply rather than too shallowly has to do with soil moisture. Again, we’re aiming to prevent them yoyo-ing between too dry and too wet all winter long. This would certainly affect the quality of the flowers come spring. 

So what’s the right depth for planting bulbs? 

About three times the height of the bulb. So if you have a two-inch bulb (about five centimeters, root to tip), plant it about six inches deep (that’s around 15 centimeters). Naturally, by this yardstick, you don’t need to dig that deep for smaller bulbs. 

And speaking of yardsticks, since I’m not really good at approximating depths, I bought myself a tool that makes the job easier. It’s a bulb planter that’s etched with inches (and centimeters) so I don’t have to guestimate every time I bury a bulb. It’s really easy to use. Just press it down at the desired depth, twist to collect the dirt and pull it back up. All you need to do is drop the bulb in the hole left behind and cover it up using the soil in the bulb planter. 

If you don’t want a separate tool for planting bulbs, you can also find etched trowels that will do the job. Have a look at this guide I wrote on a few other bulb planting tools that will make this job a breeze.  

6. Not paying (enough) attention to aesthetics. 

With most of this article covering practical tips, I thought I should at least group together some tips on bulb garden design.

One mistake I made in the past was planting the bulbs a bit too far apart. As a newbie, I was just following the spacing instructions on the bag. But when the flowers came up in spring, the whole display looked a bit ridiculous. It was so spaced out; it was taking up so much yard space with so few bulbs. 

I now plant my bulbs closer together, especially the smaller ones that don’t have thick foliage. It looks like a cohesive and intentional patch rather than flowers scattered about by the wind. 

And speaking of avoiding unimpressive displays, I’ve now become a big fan of planting a mix of spring bulbs rather than just one variety. Remember those “niche bulbs” I mentioned you should buy early? Planting more of them into your bulb patch will produce that “display garden” effect we crave when we visit bulb farms in spring. (No? Just me?)

So in addition to the classic tulips, hyacinths and daffodils, you can also add some fritillary, glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa) or wood aconites (Eranthis hyemalis) to your spring garden. 

The post 6 Bulb Planting Mistakes That Will Spoil Your Spring Blooms appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Many years ago, when I first discovered that a surefire way to get free houseplants was to bring some in from the garden, you would have thought I’d hit the jackpot.

When you’re a plant-obsessed student on a half-a-shoestring budget, it does feel like winning the lottery when well-meaning family members give you plants from their garden. 

Even now, after more than a decade of enjoying gardening, I feel giddy when I successfully turn garden plants into indoor plants. Some of them stay indoors just for half a year, from fall until spring, and we overwinter together. Others I keep indoors all year long. It’s often a combination of the two, sometimes with the same type of plant. 

If you want some bonus plants, too, here’s a short list of plants I’ve turned from garden plants to houseplants without too much of a hassle. 

1. Begonia 

I have to start with begonias because they have been, by far, my most successful indoor-outdoor-indoor transition every year. Rhizomatous begonias, wax begonias (also known as Sempterflorens), and rex begonias are the three types that will handle this transition well.

They will certainly live to see another season in the garden. 

Whether you’re growing your begonias in containers or in the ground, I highly recommend changing their soil before you take them indoors. You don’t want any hitchhikers coming indoors and moving on to your other plants. 

I have to warn you that begonias tend to be a bit finicky indoors. They need humidity which is often in short supply in the winter indoors. They also can’t handle cold drafts. Even though my begonias are happy and thriving in a partly shaded location outside in the garden, they tend to get a bit stretchy indoors in the winter.

So even though they don’t need direct sunlight, they do need plenty of daylight.

Does that mean that begonias won’t be happy indoors? Not at all. They’ll be thriving inside as long as they have enough humidity, water and bright indirect light. You might even get your begonia to bloom inside in the cold months. 

Begonias will bounce back wherever you move them.

Now here’s a piece of good news: even if your begonia might get a little bit frazzled indoors, it will bounce back very quickly when you take it back outdoors.

If you’re nervous about taking your begonia indoors, you can reach a compromise with this garden queen and take just a snippet inside. This will ensure that should you get frost during the cold months, you’ll still have a backup begonia ready to go. 

I like to take begonia cuttings early enough in the season – usually in September – and root them in pots outdoors. This gives the cuttings enough time to grow a strong root system in ideal weather before I bring them indoors. 

For more begonia care tips, have a look at this article I wrote about this very versatile plant. 

2. Coleus (Coleus scutellarioides) 

Coleus is another indoor-outdoor favorite of mine. Just like with begonia, you can bring your entire coleus plant indoors when the temperatures dip or just take a cutting to overwinter inside.

Another similarity to begonia is that coleus can tolerate shade outside – and thrives in part shade – but really reacts poorly to lack of light indoors. So if you can find a place where it can reliably get enough bright indirect light indoors, you’re all set. And just like begonia, it will bounce back quickly once you relocate it outdoors. 

Without a doubt, the main coleus attraction is its mesmerizing colorful foliage. There’s a coleus in every color or shade imaginable in nature, from lime green to bright red to deep burgundy. 

But will coleus keep their colorful leaf pattern indoors? Yes and … no? 

Here’s what happened to my coleus when I moved it inside, then planted it out in the garden, then moved it inside again. 

Out in natural light, the colors were deep and intense. In indoor light, especially during the winter, it turned a bit more pale (but still had some splashes of color). When I returned it outdoors, this time in a generously large container, it went back to growing strong, velvety leaves. 

One year, I wanted to see what would happen to my coleus if I kept it as a houseplant. I had the pleasant surprise of ending up with this. An enormous houseplant that was in bloom for weeks. Surprisingly, a plant with such stunning foliage doesn’t have equally show-stopping flowers. The coleus flowers are delicately small, baby-blue or purple blooms. 

It was getting a bit out of hand and a bit too etiolated (leggy) for my taste, so out into the garden it went the following spring. I could have kept it a bit more compact by simply pruning it where it branched to encourage lateral growth. 

3. Oxalis

My story with oxalis happened the other way around. I had been growing it as a houseplant for a good five years before I dared turn it into a garden plant. I carried it from one apartment to another, and it reliably brightened up dark corners or rentals while being the least fussy plant I had. (Yes, that included the pothos.) 

When I once again had my own garden, I moved the oxalis outdoors with nary a trepidation in my heart. My intuition was right. It thrived as an outdoor plant just as much as it did as a houseplant. 

Outdoors, oxalis will start dying back when the temperatures reach the low 50s F (around 10-14C). But it’s only the part above ground that dies. Both oxalis grown from rhizomes and those grown from bulbs will just retreat underground and sprout back up in spring. When you’re bringing your oxalis indoors and turning it into a houseplant, you get to skip this part. 

Most oxalis will keep the foliage year-long when you keep them indoors, although it may slow down their flowering. 

The best way to make sure your oxalis thrives – both indoors and outdoors – is to avoid overwatering it at all costs. You should also upsize its container every year or at least every other year. A happy oxalis is an oxalis that has enough room to split and multiply without any constraints. 

4. Geraniums 

Are you surprised that geraniums weren’t number one on my list? Well, I’ve already written an article about overwintering pelargonium geraniums indoors on our sister site, Blooming Backyard. So I feel that shows I’m firmly in the ”geraniums as houseplants” camp.

My favorite type of geranium to grow as a houseplant is the lemony-scented Pelargonium crispum. Pelargonium tomentosum (which smells like mint) is also a good choice. Just slightly brush past them, and the entire room will smell fresh and crisp. 

Light is especially important for geraniums. So when you bring them indoors, place them in a south- or east-facing window. This goes well for both geraniums that flower and the ones that we grow for foliage.

I had to move my lemon-scented geranium around a bit before I found a spot that suited it best. Close to the east-facing double window – not right in front of it, but slightly below it, reaching up. It did lose some older leaves as it adapted to a lower level of light than it was getting outside on my deck, but once it stabilized, it started growing again, even through the winter months. 

Geraniums are also sensitive to overwatering, so keep a light hand in winter. But don’t let them get too dry between watering sessions, as they’re also not big fans of frequent water fluctuations. 

The downside of keeping geraniums indoors is that they won’t bloom as profusely as when you’re growing them in the garden. But that’s okay since, with this type of plant, it’s the foliage that carries both visual and olfactory appeal. 

5. Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa sinensis)

Growing up in a temperate climate in the Northern Hemisphere, I only ever saw hibiscus grown as a houseplant. (One of my aunts who had a particularly green thumb used to have an indoor hibiscus the size of three of my cousins put together.)

It was only when I started traveling further south that I started seeing hibiscus grown outdoors. 

In all honesty, if you look at a hibiscus shrub, it’s hard to imagine ever taking it indoors. That’s because not all hibiscus make good houseplants. And with over 200 varieties of hibiscus in circulation, that would be hard to imagine. 

The one that always does, though, is the tropical hibiscus (also known as Chinese hibiscus). You’ll recognize it by the shiny deep green leaves and the bright flowers that come in shades of pink, red, orange or white. 

The trouble with hibiscus is that, because they’re tropical plants, they need to get as much bright sunlight as possible. Since that’s easier said than done in the winter months, your hibiscus might throw a bit of a temper tantrum when you first bring it indoors. 

Two common signs that the hibiscus is still adapting to the transition include the flowers falling and the foliage turning yellow. That’s okay as long as the plant still has a healthy-looking stem and is growing new foliage at the top. 

Hibiscus dislikes dry air as much as they dislike darkness.

So placing them in the company of other plants, on a humid pebble tray, or in a room with more humidity will help hibiscus cope better in the dry months. Of course, make sure you keep this plant away from sources of direct hot air, such as furnaces, stoves, vents or fireplaces. 

Some hibiscus may bloom all winter long, provided they get enough sun. Mine never does, though. It enters a state of complete bliss and relaxation in which it doesn’t grow but doesn’t die back, either. And that’s good enough for me. Once the days start getting longer and brighter in spring, my hibiscus starts growing and blooming as usual.  

4 Tips for Transitioning Outdoor Plants to Houseplants

In my opinion, there is no definite right or wrong way to transition plants from the garden to an indoor environment. However, through trial and error, I found a few tips that will make the job easier. 

1. Before you move them inside, transition to an outdoor space that mimics indoor conditions. 

This is similar advice to the one I had when I was talking about moving houseplants outside in the summer.

It’s just as important to acclimate our garden plants to indoor conditions before we take them fully indoors.

However, my outdoor plant pots are inhabited by all sorts of critters that have been feasting and burrowing in the soil. They’re welcome to it, but I don’t want them spreading to my houseplants. The last thing I want is a school of pill bugs dispersing over my living room floor. 

So it’s not practical to move the same pots from outdoors to indoors and back again over a period of a few weeks just to acclimate them. What I do instead is move the plants I plan to take inside to a more shaded location. This helps them adjust to lower levels of light intensity. In the case of plants that tend to go dormant in the winter, such as hibiscus, I also start watering them less. 

2. Clean up the plants thoroughly.

If the plant you’re bringing indoors is currently residing in the ground, half the job is done. Lift it gently, spray the root structure with water to clean everything thoroughly and pot it up. Make sure you use fresh potting soil specially mixed for indoor containers. 

However, if the plant has been happily residing in a container outdoors, the choice is a bit trickier. If you decide to leave it in the same pot and just move it as is, you have to be really thorough when you check it. Really thorough! 

Check the drainage holes because that’s where slugs, snails and earthworms reside. Then thoroughly check the top of the soil and dig a bit deeper around the rim of the container. That’s where you’re more likely to find slug eggs. 

Speaking of above soil level, take the time to inspect and clean all the leaves. I start by giving the plant a nice shower with the hose (while still outdoors, of course); I then wipe it dry with a soft rag and inspect it at the same time. I check the underside of the leaves for spider mites and the stems and new growth for aphids. 

And repot the plants if you’re not sure. 

Yes, my advice may sound a bit overly cautious, but it’s a case of “been there, done that, regretted it, and now I’m warning everyone against it.” That’s why I prefer to repot all the outdoor plants I’m taking back indoors. I do it for my own peace of mind and for the well-being of all my houseplants. And I always find new uses for the old potting soil because I hate waste just as much as any gardener does. 

And if you have a transitional space available, such as a sunroom, an enclosed porch, or even a guest room where no other houseplants reside, that’s where I would put them first. Keep the garden plants as far away from your houseplants as possible for at least a couple of weeks. 

3. Reduce the size of the plant, if necessary. 

First, I start by removing all the dead and diseased leaves or branches. No diseased matter should enter the house. No exceptions. Then I trim some of the leggy growth. You don’t have to do this step if you have plenty of room to accommodate a larger plant, but I find things get a bit cramped with this new influx of houseplants. 

For example, in the case of both begonia and coleus, I almost always end up trimming a few errant branches. Again, in the interest of no waste, you can try to propagate the cuttings, although for some plants, it might be a bit too late in the season. 

Please keep in mind that I don’t do any major pruning at this time. I don’t want to stimulate new growth. So just a light trim will do. 

4. Expect a bit of a rough patch.

Listen, there’s no way to sugarcoat this.  When you turn outdoor plants into indoor plants, there will be an adjustment period. And the best way to deal with it is to adjust your expectations accordingly. 

Due to the changes in light, temperature, humidity, airflow and temperature (so basically almost everything a plant relies on to thrive), the plant will react. It will stop blooming. Then it will lose leaves. It may even start growing altogether. But that’s okay. And it’s just temporary. Please don’t attempt to “save it” by adding more fertilizer or giving it more water. That’s only going to make matters worse. 

The post 5 Outdoor Plants You Can Turn Into Houseplants + Tips to Bring Them Inside appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Hydrangeas are fun, pure and simple. What else can you say about a shrub with blooms that look like cheerleading pompoms? It’s no wonder they’re a summer mainstay in front yards everywhere.

But as the leaves on the trees begin to change color, the flowers of a hydrangea begin to fade. With the arrival of fall, you’ll need to give these showy shrubs a little post-season care to ensure you enjoy massive blossoms again next year.

Hydrangeas are easy shrubs to care for; in fact, they’re one of the easiest flowering shrubs to grow.

That being said, if you want to have shrubs that are the envy of the neighborhood, you’ll want to set aside about half an hour this fall to ensure your hydrangeas receive good care heading into the winter.

But let’s start with one hydrangea job you shouldn’t do this autumn…

1. Don’t Prune Your Hydrangeas in the Fall

Yes, you read that correctly. While you’ll often see fall pruning recommended, there’s a lot to be said for leaving them intact, blooms and all. One of the most important reasons for not pruning them in the fall is that some varieties form blooms on old wood.

These types often bloom in the early summer. Some varieties include:

• Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
• Lacecap Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla normalis)
• Mountain Hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata)

Prune these types of hydrangeas in the summer, shortly after they finish flowering. Pruning in the fall means no flowers next year.

Even if you aren’t growing “old wood blooming” varieties of hydrangeas, there’s still good reason not to prune them until late winter or early spring.

By leaving the faded paper blossoms intact, you’re creating a natural shelter that will help to protect the plant during the winter. As it snows, the dead foliage and blooms will catch the snow, creating a shelter above the crown of the plant, insulating it from the worst of the weather.  

You run the risk of opening up your plant to cold damage if you prune in the fall. Pruning stimulates new growth; this new growth is more likely to die off in cold weather, opening the plant to cold damage.

Finally, leaving the spent blossoms and old growth through the winter provides homes for pollinators and other important insects. You can prune hydrangeas in early spring once insects emerge.

Related Reading: 5 Good Reasons Not to Tidy Up Your Garden This Fall

4 Autumn Jobs For Happy Blooming Hydrangeas Next Spring

1. Protect From Frost

Most hydrangea species are cold, hardy, growing well in zones 3-9. If you live in a climate with harsh winters, you might want to consider wrapping your hydrangeas at the end of the season. Wrapping your shrubs in the fall will protect them from freezing temperatures and damaging winds from winter storms.

Burlap is a great choice for wrapping your hydrangeas. If you want to use what you have on hand, leaves and pine boughs are also a good option.

2. Fertilize Hydrangeas

Fall is also the time to fertilize hydrangeas. Choose a slow-release, balanced fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10, such as this Southern Ag Slow Release Fertilizer. Apply the fertilizer, gently scratching it into the first few inches of the soil. For liquid fertilizers, water them in well.

Fertilizing in the fall provides plants with nutrients that will be stored during the plant’s dormant stage, ready to use in the spring.

If you’ve had trouble in the past trying to grow lots of blooms or larger blooms, choose a fertilizer with a much higher phosphate ratio. (That’s the middle number.) Plants need plenty of phosphorous to create flowers and fruit.

An excellent, slow-release fertilizer that’s high in phosphorous is bone meal. Add this to your soil in the fall for big, beautiful blooms next year. There are lots of great reasons to use bone meal in the garden.

3. Mulch

Hydrangeas prefer moist, well-draining soil. If you are dealing with an unseasonably dry fall, mulch is your friend. Lay down a thick layer of mulch beneath your plant to assist with holding in water.

You’ll have less watering to worry about when the rest of your plants enter their dormancy as well.

Mulch is especially important if you want weed-free hydrangeas.

Weeds can lie in wait for decades below the soil, just waiting for the right moment to pop up. Putting down a nice thick layer of mulch will help keep the soil moist and prevent weed growth.

It’s often suggested that you use pine needles or pine park to fertilize acid-loving plants due to the acid in pine. However, studies have shown that pine bark and pine needles have little effect on the acidity of the ground.

There are so many options for mulch that I’ll bet you have at least one out in your yard right now.

And finally, don’t forget this last fall hydrangea chore for colorful blooms next year.

4. Special Fall Care for Blue Hydrangeas

One of the reasons these lovely shrubs are so popular stems from their ability to change the color of their blooms depending on the acidity of the soil.

Some varieties will have shades of pink in alkaline soil. But as the pH changes, so does the color; the more acidic the soil, the more vibrant the hue. Neutral soil usually gives you lovely shades of purple, whereas acidic soil, with a pH of 6 or less, will give you the loveliest shade of blue.

However, many gardeners make the mistake of trying to acidify their soil in the spring.

The best time to adjust the pH of your soil is in the fall. Whether you use sulfur or fertilizer specifically made for acid-loving plants, such as Holly-tone, it takes time for the nutrients to break down in the soil and be readily available to your hydrangeas.

If you struggle to achieve a beautiful sky-blue hydrangea, try adding your acidic soil amendments in the fall rather than the spring. This also gives you time to test the soil periodically so you can add more if needed.

Now that your hydrangeas are taken care of, perhaps it’s time to think about getting your strawberries ready for winter.

The post 4 Important Fall Hydrangea Jobs (& One Thing You Probably Shouldn’t Do) appeared first on Rural Sprout.

If you were to walk past my garden and do a bit of eavesdropping at the height of summer, you would no doubt think you happened upon a scene from Alice in Wonderland. You’ll hear me shout “Off with their heads!” at a volume rivaling that of The Queen of Hearts. But rest assured, I’m not seething with rage; I’m just deadheading flowers.  

Removing the spent blooms on both perennial and annual flowers is an excellent practice for several reasons. It encourages our plants to put out more flowers; it extends the blooming season; and it helps the garden look aesthetically pleasing without too much extra effort.

In the spirit of the contrarian Queen of Hearts, allow me to explore a few reasons why we shouldn’t deadhead the flowers in your garden. Most of these reasons are excellent reminders now, at the end of summer, with colder weather looming. But some of these scenarios also apply to plants that reach their peak in May, June or July. 

1. Some plants won’t bloom again after deadheading. 

Speaking of plants that peak earlier in the year, let’s have a look at why deadheading may be a bad idea. Take perennials such as rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias and magnolias. These shrubs form their buds months (even seasons) in advance. 

For example, the beautiful rhododendron flowers that open up around May have been forming on the plant since the previous May or June. We can deadhead our rhododendrons to make them look tidier – here’s how I cleaned them up in June. 

However, doing so in the hope of encouraging the plant to put out more blooms is an exercise in futility. Deadheading helps the shrub not waste energy on seed production, but we can put this gardening job on the back burner until all the blooms are spent. 

It’s not just shrubs that only bloom once. Ornamentals such as Russian sage, Siberian irises, astilbe and tall sedum will generally not bloom again once you’ve deadheaded them. 

2. You want the plant to self-seed. 

Admittedly, for some of our readers that’s precisely the main reason why deadheading should take place. I agree, to a certain extent, that if you have an established plant colonizing the four corners of your garden through self-seeding every year, then off with its head! is the best approach.

But I also see self-seeding as sparing me the effort of trying to propagate that plant, especially if that plant is an annual, such as nigella and calendula. Self-seeding allows me to sit back and do nothing yet still get a beautiful patch of blooms next spring. Perennials, such as rudbeckia, lobelia and columbine, are good self-seeders too. 

Some seeds need cold stratification in order to improve germination rates, so letting those plants self-seed in the fall usually gives me better results than starting them from seed in spring. 

With biennials, such as foxgloves, hollyhocks, forget-me-nots and lunaria, the advantage of self-seeding is even more evident. Since biennials bloom in their second year, allowing them to spread their seeds every year ensures that you have flowers in bloom every year, instead of every other year. 

Take Sweet William (Dianthus), for example, which grows as a biennial in my garden. It spends its first year with zero flowers, so you’d better believe I’m letting it go to seed next year.

3. The seeds are edible (and delicious)

We often think of plants as either edible or ornamental. And if they are edible, surely it must be the fruit that we use in our cooking. But how about the seeds? 

How often do we think of rosebuds as edible when we deadhead them in a happy frenzy to get more and more blooms? Not often, I’m willing to bet. If we don’t let the flower go to seed, we’ll miss out on deliciously tart rose hips full of vitamin C and antioxidants. 

It’s not just roses that have edible seeds. Plants such as nasturtiums, anise hyssop, coriander, and fennel all have edible seeds. Have you ever tasted green coriander seeds? They pack all of that delicious Middle Eastern flavor with not even a hint of the soapiness of coriander leaves.  

If you’re interested in exploring more edible seeds, here’s an article I wrote about this excellent cooking resource. 

4. The seeds are edible for wildlife. 

Let’s not be human-centered here. If we don’t deadhead and let our plants go to seed, we’ll have a garden full of life all winter long. Because it’s not just us consuming the seeds. Even if the seed heads are not edible for us, they are edible for wildlife. 

During the cold winter months, when their other food sources have run scarce or have retreated deeper underground, birds feed on the seeds of echinacea, black-eyed Susan, ox-eye flower and sunflowers.

Goldfinches, in particular, love to supplement their diet with the seeds of Sweet William in the winter months. Refraining from deadheading these sources of nourishment will ensure our gardens are welcoming places for much-needed wildlife.

5. The dead flower heads will add interest to your garden.

I admit, looking at dry flowerheads as ornamental elements in the garden does require a change in mindset. Often this shift doesn’t come suddenly, but gradually. And the shift starts when you just leave the flower heads on … just to see what happens. In more cases than you’d imagine, what happens is pure beauty. 

Take, for example, the richness and texture of dry hydrangea flowers overwintering in the garden. Deadheading them in the middle of the growing season would be such a loss later on in the year. 

But it’s not just the winter garden that we can enhance by leaving flower heads to age in place. This year, I experimented with allowing some spring bulbs to transition into summer with the flowers still attached. Obviously, it didn’t work so well with the tulips or the crocuses. However, the daffodils and the muscari turned into perfect dry decor. 

Here is how the dry muscari heads looked tucked next to my potted hydrangeas in mid-summer. I would have missed this gorgeous combo if I had decided to deadhead them once blooming was over. 

6. You want to dry the flowers. 

Speaking of decor, there are some plants that we grow specifically for their beautiful dry blooms and ornamental seedheads. Plants such as silver dollars (Lunaria annua), celosia, Chinese lanterns (Physalis alkekengi), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) and some ornamental grasses make beautiful flower arrangements when we dry them. 

I challenge you to think outside the box and dry flowers that you wouldn’t normally grow for this purpose. I’ve made dry arrangements using anise hyssop, verbena bonariensis, rudbeckia, spirea, basil and even mustard pods. I’ve let all of these flowers dry on the stalk in the garden, which would not have been possible if I hadn’t stopped deadheading them. 

When I maxed out on the number of vases I could use for dead flower displays (since I wasn’t really after that Addams Family vibe), I switched to collecting the dry flower heads in an oversized glass jar. It’s free decor that takes up very little space but brings me a lot of joy.  

7. You shouldn’t encourage new growth late in the season.

Let’s get back to those roses that I advised you to skip deadheading in order to collect the rose hips. Another reason why deadheading is not a good idea later in the season is because it encourages new growth. I wrote about this in the guide on essential fall care for roses.

It’s not just roses that can suffer if you deadhead them too late in the season. It’s best to leave tender perennials to go to seed starting in late summer. That’s sometimes a bit tricky. What’s considered a tender perennial in one gardening zone can be grown as an annual in a colder zone and a perennial in a warmer zone. However, a list of the most common tender perennials includes blanket flowers (Gaillardia), hostas, daylilies, lantana, astilbe, hibiscus and penstemons. 

Depending on what type of climate you garden in, you might get your first frost as early as October. That’s why you want to encourage tender perennials to enter their period of dormancy way ahead of that. Deadheading achieves the exact opposite effect: it signals to the plant that it needs to keep growing in order to set seed to replace the seedheads you’ve just cut. This fresh growth is susceptible to frost damage and is vulnerable in the face of winter conditions. 

8. You’re not sure what you should deadhead. 

Luckily, this doesn’t happen with many plants and it’s a newbie mistake that’s easily fixed. But I did get this idea from watching a real-life gardening blunder. My friend snipped off a perfect dahlia bud ready to bloom after mistaking it for a spent bud. 

It hadn’t dawned on me, up to that point, that the spent buds and the unopened buds look so much alike. So after deadheading the pointy leftover, my friend proceeded to cut the rounded flower-to-be too. It’s an honest mistake that you don’t risk making with too many plants. But it can happen if you’re too keen on indiscriminate deadheading. 

Overall, this Queen of Hearts is all for deadheading. But just like any gardening activity, it’s all about observing our own gardens and adapting to their rhythms and their needs throughout every season.

The post 8 Reasons Why You Shouldn’t Deadhead Your Plants appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Anyone who gardens in even the slightest rural area can attest that there is no such thing as a deer-proof garden. These four-legged-munching-machines will graze, uninvited wherever you grow veggies, flowers or fruit.

Oh, you mean you didn’t plant these apple trees for us? What do you mean your flower bed isn’t a salad bar? Pfft, rude.

Keeping deer in check can be a real struggle.

Fencing in your veggie garden is an easy way to keep them out, but what about flower gardens? Fenced-in flower beds kind of kills the point of the natural beauty they’re meant to display. Instead, you can make your flower beds less appealing by planting a few of these deer-resistant bulbs this fall.

The Nature of Deer

My sweetie lives on a plot of land surrounded by state game lands. We have an impressive rotation of critters that pass through the yard. And let me tell you, there’s nothing quite like getting up early in the morning, hot cup of coffee in hand, and watching a doe and her spotted fawns step gingerly from the forest covering to come and drink from the fog-covered pond.

Well, until they start eating all my flowers.

Then, the magic of the moment kind of wears off, and the swearing and banging on the window begins.

Deer are natural-born grazers. It helps if you think of them as the cows of the forest. (Not so majestic now, are you, Bambi!) Maybe a more appropriate comparison is with goats because, like goats, deer will eat most anything in their path. Is it green? Is it vegetation? Chomp-chomp-chomp.

Sure, they have their favorites, and there are many plants that they will avoid. But if a lean winter or drought has made for slim pickings, deer will eat what’s available. So, no garden will ever truly be deer-proof.

The Magic of Plant Compounds

However, if you want a deer-resistant garden, get out your lab coat and those super-sexy lab goggles because we’re going to Chemistry class.

The flowers listed here are deer-resistant thanks to the toxic plant compounds found in each. These substances make the flowers inedible or toxic to deer, who are (usually) smart enough to skip over them in favor of something that won’t give them an upset stomach.  

Many of the plants on this list contain two well-known compounds that keep deer away.

Lycorine

A crystalline alkaloid that is poisonous to deer and other mammals. (That includes us, so no eating your daffodils.)

Calcium oxalate crystals

Nibbling on plants with oxalate crystals can cause deer extreme pain and swelling to the mouth and gastric distress.

You know that feeling you get on your teeth when you eat raw spinach? Yeah, that’s oxalate crystals. Only those are block-shaped, so they just make your mouth feel funky.

The calcium oxalate crystals in flowers of the Amaryllidaceae family are raphides, which is the super fancy scientific name for needle-shaped clusters of oxalate crystals. And eating those can do some serious damage, as one family found out when they mistook their spring daffodils for onions.

To enjoy gorgeous blooms without worrying about the Cow of the Forest nibbling on them, opt for bulbs that deer know well enough to steer clear of unless they want a bellyache.

Fall Planting

Plant bulbs in the fall well before the first freeze. Place bulbs in the ground, pointy tip up and the roots down. To give them a little added boost, you might want to sprinkle a little bone meal over them before you bury them. In the spring, you can add a light layer of compost over them. Allow the leaves to die back naturally before cutting them close to the ground.

1. Allium – Allium spp.

Onions? You bet. Well, the ornamental varieties anyway. Most come in shades of blue, white or purple. These early summer showstoppers add a pop of vivid color and fun with their spherical flowering heads. Deer won’t nibble these pungent plants, making them a great bulb to add to your flower beds for a tall, show-stopping focal point. If you have squirrel problems, these are a great choice as well.

• Hardiness Zone: Varies by species but generally Zones 3-9.
• Sun Requirements: Full sun to part shade.
• Soil Requirements: Well-drained soil with good organic matter.
• Water Requirements: Average moisture; avoid waterlogged soil.
• Planting Instructions: Plant bulbs 2-3 times their height deep, spaced about 4-6 inches apart.

2. Daffodils – Narcissus spp.

By far the most deer-resistant flower, daffodils belong in every garden. These set-it-and-forget-it spring flowers are a great choice for those looking for a flower that will naturalize with little to no extra care. If you grow non-hybrid daffodils, you can even grow daffodils from seed.

Daffodils bloom early in the spring, delighting the senses in a landscape of drab gray. Plant bulbs this fall to enjoy pops of yellow, white, cream and apricot next spring that the deer will leave well enough alone.

• Hardiness Zone: Typically, Zones 3-9.
• Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade.
• Soil Requirements: Well-drained soil; they tolerate various soil types.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil evenly moist, especially during the growth phase. In spring, this is usually a non-issue.
• Planting Instructions: Plant bulbs at a depth of 2-3 times their height, with 4-6 inches of spacing.

3. Fritillaria – Fritillaria spp.

Fritillaries are also known as guinea hen flowers or Crown Imperial, and these spring-blooming flowers are just fun. They have beautiful bell-shaped flowers atop long stalks, and some varieties have a little top-knot of greenery capping off the flowers. Fritillaria have feathery, green foliage at the bottom of the plant.

The bulbs don’t do well out of the soil, so be sure to order them as soon as they’re available and get them in the ground in the fall right away. The Crown Imperial is known for putting out blind bulbs, so expect that among any batch, you will have a few that put out lots of lovely foliage but no flowers.

• Hardiness Zone: Varies by species; typically Zones 4-9.
• Sun Requirements: Full sun to part shade.
• Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil with moderate moisture.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
• Planting Instructions: Plant bulbs at a depth of 3-4 times their height, with adequate spacing.

4. Glory-of-the-Snow – Chionodoxa spp.

Imagine a late winter snow. You know spring is right around the corner, no matter what that wretched old groundhog says. Among the blanket of white are pops of palest blue flowers – Glory-of-the-Snow. These are some of the earliest flowers to bloom each spring, often showing up while snow is still on the ground.

If you want a carpet of color in the spring, this is your go-to bulb. You can easily plant hundreds to cover a large area without worry that deer will dig them up or nibble them in the spring. The plants naturalize and will spread into the surrounding area, making for a sea of sky-blue flowers to look forward to each spring.

• Hardiness Zone: Zones 3-9.
• Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade.
• Soil Requirements: Well-drained, humus-rich soil.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil evenly moist.
• Planting Instructions: Plant bulbs at a depth of 2-3 times their height, spaced 3-4 inches apart.

5. Hyacinth – Hyacinthus orientalis

These fragrant stalked flowers come in all the colors of spring – pale pinks, buttery yellows, snowy white, and even electric purple. The stalks are tightly packed with star-shaped blossoms. For many, hyacinths are synonymous with Easter. Blooming later in the spring than daffodils or crocus, they make a good addition to your spring flower garden, offering transitioning color from mid to late spring. Or choose the small grape-like clusters of grape hyacinth; each variety is considered deer-resistant.

• Hardiness Zone: Zones 4-8.
• Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade.
• Soil Requirements: Well-drained, fertile soil.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.
• Planting Instructions: Plant bulbs at a depth of 3 times their height, spaced 4-6 inches apart.

6. Snowdrops – Galanthus nivalis

Besides being deer-resistant, snowdrops are an excellent flower to add to the pollinator-friendly landscape. These gorgeous white flowers offer nectar and pollen to bees that emerge in late winter or early spring when other food sources might still be scarce.

Snowdrops are another good choice if you want a bloom that will naturalize and spread throughout your landscape. The clean, white flowers pop amid the drab grays and browns that litter the ground in late winter, offering the first sign of spring in your backyard.

• Hardiness Zone: Zones 3-7.
• Sun Requirements: Partial to full shade.
• Soil Requirements: Well-draining soil with good organic matter.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil consistently moist during the growing season.
• Planting Instructions: Plant bulbs at a shallow depth, about 2-3 inches, spaced 2-3 inches apart.

7. Iris – Iris spp.

While the iris isn’t a bulb, the rhizomes do best when planted in early fall to establish before cold weather sets in. Iris, or “flags” as they’re colloquially known, are a great choice for deer-resistant blooms as they come in many colors and heights and will bloom in late spring to early summer. Along with elegant flowers, their green foliage adds to any garden you plant them in.

We grow water iris around my sweetie’s pond, and while the deer love to come and get a drink, they never nibble on the iris, leaving us with a gorgeous display of bright yellow blooms to enjoy.

• Hardiness Zone: Varies by species, but generally Zones 3-9.
• Sun Requirements: Full sun to part shade, with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day for best blooms.
• Soil Requirements: Well-drained soil is crucial. Irises prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil evenly moist, especially during the growing season and when they bloom.
• Planting Instructions: Plant iris rhizomes just below the soil surface, leaving the tops exposed. Space them 12-24 inches apart.

8. Crocus – Crocus spp.

Crocus are another early-blooming spring flower, with petals that shine like they’re made of satin. From soft lavender to shocking yellow and purple, these tiny flowers announce that spring is here and they are not on the menu.

For the foodie in your house, consider growing saffron crocus. Saffron is nothing more than the dried stigmas and styles of the Saffron Crocus, but they’re incredibly spendy. Imagine having a field of deer-resistant saffron right in your backyard.  

• Hardiness Zone: Zones 3-8.
• Sun Requirements: Full sun to partial shade.
• Soil Requirements: Well-drained soil; crocuses can tolerate various soil types.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil evenly moist during their growth and flowering period.
• Planting Instructions: Plant crocus bulbs at a depth of 3-4 inches, with spacing of 2-4 inches apart.

9. Camassia – Camassia spp.

This North American native plant is a great option for those looking for native species to add to their collection. You will find them growing in the wild in moist meadows and hillsides. So, if you need a bloom for that area of your lawn that always stays damp, Camas is the perfect choice. The stalks grow to about two to three feet tall, making them an excellent statement flower in garden beds that need a little height for interest or grow them as a border plant.

• Hardiness Zone: Zones 4-8.
• Sun Requirements: Full sun to part shade.
• Soil Requirements: Well-drained soil with good moisture retention.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the growing season.
• Planting Instructions: Plant bulbs at a depth of 4-6 inches, spaced about 6-8 inches apart.

10. English Bluebells – Hyacinthoides non-scripta

There’s something fresh and intoxicating walking through a copse of trees with a carpet of bluebells beneath your feet. Their undeniably green floral scent is something right out of a fairytale. This is one fairytale where you can enjoy the presence of deer without watching them munch on your scenery.

Plant this flower garden classic along the edges of wooded areas for a beautiful display in the spring that will creep into the forest as well as your lawn. Or grow them for cut flowers in a flower bed among other spring blooms. In either case, you won’t have to share them with the deer.

• Hardiness Zone: Zones 3-8.
• Sun Requirements: Part to full shade.
• Soil Requirements: Moist, well-drained soil with organic matter.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil evenly moist.
• Planting Instructions: Plant bulbs at a depth of 2-3 inches, spaced about 4-6 inches apart.

11. Lily of the Valley – Convallaria majalis

Okay, okay, you got me; Lily of the Valley isn’t a bulb. But they’re great as far as deer-resistant flowers go, and the pips can be planted in the fall around the same time you would plant bulbs, so I had to include them.

These fairy-like plants produce stalks of tiny, creamy, white bells among dark green leaves each spring. And you can’t beat the way they smell after a fresh spring rain. If you’ve got a damp and shady area of your lawn where not much will grow, plant Lily of the Valley. It will flourish!

• Hardiness Zone: Zones 2-9.
• Sun Requirements: Part to full shade.
• Soil Requirements: Moist, well-drained, rich, and organic soil.
• Water Requirements: Keep the soil consistently moist.
• Planting Instructions: Plant pips or divisions at a depth of 1-2 inches, spaced 4-6 inches apart.

Along with planting deer-resistant flowering bulbs, you can do some easy things to keep Bambi from treating your gardens like an all-you-can-eat buffet.

And if you grow fruit of any sort, you’ll want to learn how to set up a deer-proof orchard.

The post 11 Deer-Resistant Flowering Bulbs to Plant this Fall appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Many gardeners who prefer growing flowers choose specific varieties for fresh-cut arrangements. After all, who doesn’t enjoy the look of a fresh bouquet in their home? The bright colors, vivid greenery and intoxicating scent, are a way of enjoying your hard work indoors and out.

But what about growing flowers specifically to use in dried floral arrangements?

With numerous simple drying methods available, you can just as easily enjoy flowers in your home all year long.

With the increasing popularity of cottage-core and the resurgence of all things 90s, dried floral displays are making a big comeback. Dried flowers are even a popular choice for brides these days. And why not? These delicate pieces are much easier on the allergy sufferer. They last quite a bit longer than their fresh counterparts. And drying flowers highlights a very different side of their beauty, complementing many different home decors from bohemian to minimalist.

Choosing the Right Plants

But not all flowers make good candidates for drying. It all depends on what you plan on using them for. While some plants, like pansies, hold their color beautifully when pressed, they’re much too delicate to be used in a dried bouquet.

For arrangements, choose plants with sturdy stems that don’t bruise easily when handled while fresh.

You’ll want to harvest flowers for drying at the peak of their bloom. Be sure and choose flowers free from blemishes, as these are more likely to rot during the drying process, and sometimes lesions can affect the dried color of leaves and petals.

Obviously, all dried plants will fall apart if handled too roughly, but the best options can stand up to the light handling required to create a floral display. Nearly all of these options can be air-dried, but if you want brighter colors or a longer-lasting piece, you might want to consider using silica gel, glycerin or another method.

Dried floral arrangements are a testament to the fragile beauty of nature.

Go For More than Blooms

A good floral arrangement has more than just flowers going on. Don’t forget to choose other plants that will offer filler or structural interest – like leaves, seed pods or grasses.

The best part about nearly all of these plants is that they also make lovely additions to a fresh-cut arrangement, so you may already be growing a few of these in your garden.

1. Ageratum

Ageratum is already a popular annual because of its gorgeous purple-blue blooms. They make a long-lasting cut flower in fresh arrangements and hold their color when dried. Along with their usual blue, they come in yellow, white and pink. They are easy to air dry.

Light: Full sun to light shade.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water, keeping the soil evenly moist.

Care: Pinch back to encourage bushier growth and deadhead spent flowers.

2. Eucalyptus

Eucalyptus is such a fantastic option for floral arrangements because not only does it dry beautifully, but it smells wonderful. While many plants lose their scent when dried, eucalyptus retains that distinct fresh smell. And the coin-shaped leaves and gray-green color add textural interest to wreaths, swags and bouquets. Depending on your growing zone, you may need to grow eucalyptus in a container and bring it indoors during the winter. This plant air dries quite well.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular watering, allowing the soil to dry slightly between waterings.

Care: Prune to control size and encourage branching.

3. Decorative Grasses

Tall, sweeping decorative grasses are a great feature in a taller dried piece. And there are so many gorgeous species to choose from. If you’re considering growing decorative grass, proceed with caution. While pampas grass is often a popular choice, some areas consider this species invasive. If you’re going to grow decorative grasses for display, be sure to choose a non-invasive species. Air drying is the way to go with decorative grasses.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Established plants are usually drought-tolerant but benefit from occasional watering.

Care: Trim back in late winter to early spring to encourage new growth.

4. Broom Corn (Sorghum bicolor)

Broom corn, also known as great millet, is a great choice for rustic floral displays. Its sweeping stalks give a sense of motion and make for a statement piece. It air dries quite well and is relatively easy to grow. Cheryl will walk you through everything you need to know to grow and harvest broom corn. Hang to dry.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then it becomes more drought-tolerant.

Care: Harvest the colorful tassels when they’re mature.

5. Larkspur (Delphinium)

Their tall stalks of deep blue flowers make larkspur a beautiful addition to large floral arrangements and bouquets. And they look just as stunning in dried pieces. You can air dry them by hanging them, but to preserve the color better, you may wish to use silica gel.

Light: Full sun to light shade.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water, allowing the soil to dry between waterings.

Care: Deadhead spent flowers to prolong blooming.

6. Poppy (Papaver somniferum)

Poppies should be included in your dried flower garden because not only are the cut flowers gorgeous fresh, but their dried seed pods make interesting additions to dried floral arrangements. While you may not be able to dry the flowers, they are quite delicate and fade quickly; the seed pods are much easier to dry. Not only can they be used for decoration, but Cheryl tells us all about growing them to eat.  

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then they can tolerate drier conditions.

Care: Allow seed pods to dry on the plant to collect seeds for future planting.

7. Bachelor Button or Cornflower

These rustic, shaggy flowers come in their traditional cornflower blue and deep purple, pink and white. They’re easy to grow, and their pale silver-green foliage looks great in dried arrangements. The abundant blooms air dry easily. Learn all the great reasons you should have bachelor button growing in your garden and how to care for it.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water, allowing the soil to dry between waterings.

Care: Deadhead to encourage continuous blooming.

8. Everlastings (Helichrysum)

Everlastings, also known as strawflowers, are popular choices for dried flower arrangements due to their papery petals that retain their color and shape even when dried. They come in various colors, including shades of white, pink, orange, and yellow. Helichrysum blooms can be harvested at their peak and hung upside down to dry naturally, making them ideal for air drying.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then it becomes more drought-tolerant.

Care: Pinch back to encourage bushier growth, deadhead spent flowers.

9. Statice (Limonium)

Statice flowers are renowned for retaining their vivid colors even after drying. They are the epitome of dried flowers – producing long-lasting clusters of tiny, papery flowers in vibrant shades of blue, purple, pink, and yellow. Statice is often dried using air drying methods, as they maintain their shape and color exceptionally well and don’t need special handling.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then it becomes more drought-tolerant.

Care: Cut flowers for drying before they fully open.

10. Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena)

Globe amaranth flowers are too cute for words, with their round, clover-like heads that come in various shades of purple, pink, red, and white. These flowers start out looking and feeling as if they’re already dried. So, it’s no surprise they hold their shape and color remarkably well when dried. Globe amaranth can be air-dried by hanging them upside down or using silica gel.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then it becomes more drought-tolerant.

Care: Deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms.

11. Lavender (Lavandula)

Lavender is one of the most popular dried flowers, and it’s no wonder why. It offers a delightful fragrance and retains its color and shape when dried. The vibrant purple hues and slender stems of dried lavender make it a popular choice for swags, wreaths, and potpourri. Lavender can be air-dried by hanging upside down, or the flowers can be harvested and dried in bunches.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining, slightly alkaline soil.

Watering: Infrequent deep watering once established, as lavender is drought-tolerant.

Care: Prune after flowering to maintain shape and encourage new growth.

12. Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila)

Everyone knows this popular flower from fresh flower arrangements. However, this filler flower, when dried, retains its small white or pink blooms and delicate form, adding a whimsical touch to dried flower compositions. They are easily dyed different colors as well by adding food coloring to the water and putting them in a vase for a few days. Air drying or silica gel are good methods for drying Baby’s Breath.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then it becomes more drought-tolerant.

Care: Prune after flowering to encourage more blooms.

13. Roses (Rosa)

Roses are classics that preserve beautifully when dried. They maintain their shape and often develop an antique-like appearance adding a touch of romance to arrangements. Choose rose varieties with naturally sturdy petals, such as hybrid teas or floribundas, for better results. Air drying and silica gel methods can be used to dry roses.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining, fertile soil.

Watering: Regular deep watering, especially during dry periods.

Care: Prune in spring to remove dead or diseased wood, fertilize regularly.

14. Globe Thistle (Echinops)

Echinops, commonly known as globe thistle, is a unique flower with spherical, spikey blooms that retain their shape and color when dried. Their striking blue or purple hues add texture and interest to dried flower arrangements. Air drying or using silica gel are effective methods for preserving the shape of globe thistle.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then it becomes more drought-tolerant.

Care: Deadhead spent flowers to prevent self-seeding.

15. Hydrangea

If you’re looking for another reason to add a hydrangea bush to your yard, look no further. Their massive blooms make excellent statement pieces in large dried flower bouquets. Depending on your drying method, you can even save some of that lovely color.

Light: Morning sun with afternoon shade.

Soil: Moist, well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water to keep the soil consistently moist.

Care: Prune after flowering, adjust soil pH for desired flower color.

16. Wheat

Not just for farmers. You don’t have to have huge waving wheat fields to enjoy this plant in your dried arrangements. Plant a small patch in your garden or flower beds. The creamy heads are a perfect symbol of abundance and prosperity. You can’t go wrong with wheat if you’re looking for a rustic touch in your dried arrangements.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then it becomes more drought-tolerant.

Care: Harvest when the heads are fully developed for drying.

17. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

There are many reasons to grow yarrow that go beyond how beautiful the large umbels are. It’s a medicinal herb, rich with tradition. If you struggle with low pollination rates in your garden, yarrow is a pollinator magnet. Oh yeah, it dries easily into clusters of white, pink and yellow with lovely gray-green foliage. Growing yarrow is easy.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then it becomes more drought-tolerant.

Care: Deadhead spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming.

18. Billy Balls (Craspedia)

These fun flowers definitely deserve a spot in your garden. They look like little balls of sunshine, and they keep that vibrant yellow when dried too. They are quite sturdy, and their unusual shape makes for interesting texture and structure in arrangements. If you want to imbue your floral arrangements with symbolism, craspedia are considered good luck in some cultures.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-draining soil.

Watering: Regular water until established, then it becomes more drought-tolerant.

Care: Harvest the round flower heads when fully developed for drying.

With a few of these flowers added to your garden, you’ll cultivate a rainbow of hues that will provide gorgeous fresh-cut flowers during the growing season and graceful dried blooms to enjoy once it’s over.

The post 18 Flowers to Grow for Gorgeous Dried Flower Arrangements appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Clematis, the queen of the vine, makes a statement in every garden it inhabits. The name comes from the Greek word klema, meaning climbing vine. This showy perennial produces giant flowers over a long growing season.

Best of all, once you establish the vines, they can keep producing for decades—even up to 50 years!

They remain among the most popular flowering vines in home gardens due to the variety of available colors, growing habits, and blooming frequency. It’s possible to plant clematis as a border plant, as a privacy screen on fences or trellises, or even in containers.

Clematis can be contrary.

They are hardy plants that can quickly take over a corner of your garden, but at the same time, are delicate enough that less-than-optimal growing conditions can prevent a plant from ever getting established. Dieback is common, and there tends to be a lot of confusion around pruning requirements.

If you love this trellis favorite and want help establishing it, this article will walk you through the details. Put in the work right now, and you’ll be rewarded with rambling vines filled with showy blooms for years to come.

About Clematis

A member of the buttercup genus, clematis are native to North America and belong to a family of more than 300 unique species that also includes hundreds of hybrids.

Despite this variety, just a handful of popular ones are used in most gardens.

Most are hardy throughout USDA zones 4 through 8. With proper pruning, they will bloom throughout the summer and produce decorative seed heads adorned with silken threads in the fall.

While most are unscented, several clematis varieties, including C. armandii, C. montana, and C. terniflora produce a light vanilla aroma.  

Some grow as herbaceous shrubs or sprawl around as ground cover, but most are woody vines. Best of all, the vines are non-clinging and won’t damage building exteriors. They support themselves with leaf tendrils that twist around trellises or other supporting structures.

The most popular varieties reach between eight and 15 feet high, while some of the largest can stretch 40 feet or farther.

Clematis Cultivation History

Clematises have been a popular garden plant since the 16^th century when a showy purple variety known as C. viticella was cultivated in the garden of Queen Elizabeth I.

The purple-centered C. florida became popular in Japan throughout the 17^th century and was featured prominently in calligraphy and lacquer work.

There are also many native North American clematis varieties that grow just as well in sunny patches in the woods as a trellis in your garden.

Clematis Groupings

All clematis varieties are divided into three groups based on flowering time and pruning requirements.

• Group 1: early flowering varieties that bloom in late winter and spring
• Group 2: reblooming summer varieties
• Group 3: flower in summer and fall

*Note: the earlier a clematis variety blooms, the less pruning it requires long-term.

Where To Plant Clematis

The best way to set your clematis up for success is through a proper planting location. They do best in well-drained, slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6.5-7.

These plants are picky, requiring at least six hours of sun a day to bloom, but need their roots kept cool and moist.

Put another way, you must keep their “heads in the sun, but feet in the shade”.

This means the plant’s base needs a healthy cover of mulch, low-growing plants, or other cover that maximizes moisture retention. Ideally, you want them to receive afternoon shade to prevent overheating.

It’s important to choose the clematis variety that suits your space visually. Bushy types like C. integrifolia work well as a border plant or in containers, while large varieties like C. armandii can overtake pergolas and other large trellises.  

How To Plant Clematis

Planting works best before the first frost of fall or after the last frost of spring so the vines have ample time to get established.

If you plan to plant a transplant, make sure you cut it back before planting to reduce shock and push all the plant’s energy toward root growth.

Make sure you dig a planting hole that’s approximately three times the width of the root ball and several inches deeper. The plant’s crown needs to be about four inches below the soil surface to encourage branching and stem development.

After you refill the hole around the roots, water thoroughly and add a layer of mulch to keep the roots cool.

Beyond mulch, consider placing a shallow-rooted plant near the clematis’s base to offer extra shade protection. We have our vines interspersed with lavender for this reason.

Don’t plant too densely. You always want to ensure the plants get airflow from all angles to prevent bacteria or fungal spores from spreading disease.

It’s also possible to grow clematis as a ground cover. Given the space to sprawl, it will quickly overtake bare areas and unsightly problem spots. 

Choosing a Trellis

As a vertical climber, most clematis varieties grow best on a support structure like a trellis, fence, or arbor. Without it, the plant will sprawl over the ground.

The overall height depends on the variety you’re growing. Smaller clematises can grow on poles ranging from 2-5 feet, while arbors are better for larger types that often reach 12 feet or taller.

Ensure the trellis contains slats that are small enough for clematis leaf tendrils to wrap around. Otherwise, you’ll need outside support to prevent the vine from slipping out. Plant clips, twine, and even Velcro can all work.

Caring for Clematis

During the first season of growth, it’s best to occasionally pinch out the growing tips over the first summer to encourage branching and ensure the plant puts its energy towards root development. This is most important for spring plantings.

The plants are finicky until they get established, so refrain from messing with the roots or attempting to transplant them. They also tend to be a favorite of rabbits and rodents, so consider protecting your plants with a wire fence.

Clematis can be heavy feeders and will appreciate a dose of liquid seaweed, fish emulsion, or all-purpose fertilizer in the spring before the buds have formed. From spring on, you can add a monthly dose of 10-10-10 fertilizer.

Clematis Water Requirements

Ensure the soil stays moist with weekly watering sessions throughout the first growing season. Clematises require consistent amounts of moisture to develop a robust root system.

After this point, they will need at least one inch of water weekly. Use a garden rain gauge to monitor how much you need to add.

Clematis Winter Care

While most clematis varieties can handle winter conditions, continuous freezes and thaws can cause problems. Protect the crown with a layer of thick mulch.  

Prune back dead wood in the spring to make room for new buds. It’s also smart to remove any stems over three years old.

Pruning Clematis

Pruning clematis promotes branching and encourages flower formation. How you prune will depend on which group the variety falls into, based on flower size and bloom time.

Group 1: Early flowers that appear on last year’s stems. Prune after flowering to remove deadwood.

Varieties: C. armandii, C. alpina, C. montana, and  C. macropetula.

Group 2: These double and semi-double flowers bloom in late spring on last year’s growth and again in late summer on the new shoots. Prune after the spring flowers and remove dead wood in late winter.

Varieties: Miss Bateman, Nelly Moser, Henry, and Elsa Spath.

Group 3: Produces large flowers on the current season’s growth. Prune hard in the late winter, leaving just two pairs of buds on each stem.

Varieties: C. viticella, C. recta, and C. x jackmanii.

Fellow Rural Sprout contributor, Mickey Gast, has written a brilliant guide demystifying clematis pruning by type which you can read here.

Clematis Pest and Disease Problems

While clematis can be tenacious once it takes off, the plant is prone to many disease problems.

Clematis wilt is a stem rot disease that shows up as blackening foliage and stems and collapse of the infected vines.

A plant will look perfect and then wilt just as the flower buds begin to open. It’s caused by the soilborne fungus Calophoma clematidina, which spreads slimy spores that can infect pruning cuts.

Thankfully, affected plants can recover on their own within a few years. Avoid contamination by removing diseased stems at the first sign of problems. You can prevent issues by choosing resistant varieties like C. alpina, C. montana, and C. macropetala, and avoiding any damage to the stems and roots.

Keeping clematis mulched or in the shade can also attract slugs and snails to new growth at the soil line. Protect plants with a barrier of crushed eggshells or diatomaceous earth that renders the ground unpleasant to travel over.

The plants are also suspectable to fungal issues like powdery mildew. Ensure the soil dries out between water sessions and that they have plenty of air circulation to prevent it.

In the spring, clematis can develop slime flux, a smelly white substance that oozes from the damaged stems. Cut infected stems below the ooze and dispose of infected material to prevent decontamination.

Clematis Propagation Strategies

While it’s possible to grow clematis from seed, the germination process takes up to three years. Propagating from stem cuttings will get you results far faster. It’s best to take cuttings from the softwood of vines in the spring before there are flowers or flower buds.

Choose a long section of healthy vine that has several sets of leaves. This allows for multiple cuttings. Allow this new growth to mature for a few weeks before cutting to ensure the stems are hardy enough to withstand the shock.

Use clean, sterile scissors to cut off sections three to four inches long, cutting half an inch above a leaf joint on both ends. Dip the bottom into a rooting hormone and place up to four prepared stems into a four to six-inch pot filled with starter soil.

Place chopsticks into the pot and cover it with a plastic bag secured on the bottom to retain moisture. The chopsticks prevent the bag from touching the cuttings. Keep the pot in a place with bright, indirect light and ensure the soil stays moist.

You can expect roots within four to eight weeks. At this point, it’s possible to transplant the vines to their permanent location.

Clematis for Cut Flower Arrangements

Though most gardeners grow clematis for a blooming vine, it’s also possible to harvest the flowers for bouquets. Shrubby and herbaceous types work best, including Dutchess of Albany, Little Ducklings, and Alionushka. The short stems can make them hard to work with, so keep the flowers near the bottom of the arrangement so they have extra support.

When harvesting, select blooms that aren’t fully mature, as they will last the longest in your vase.

Ideally, they should be half open with stamens that haven’t unfolded.

Harvest early in the morning or evening so the flowers aren’t wilting from the heat. Use a sharp knife to cut the ends of the stems and remove any leaves that would sit in the water.

Consider adding a hydration solution to the water to encourage the blooms to open fully and prolong their lifespan.

In Summary

Clematis aren’t the easiest flower to grow. It takes planning and preparation to get established. But once they do, they reward you with showy flowers all growing season for years to come. Take the time to start yours off well, and the long-term maintenance should be minimal for this garden centerpiece.

The post How to Plant & Grow Clematis – the Perennial Climbing Showpiece appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Whether you know them as bachelor button, cornflower or blue bottle, no cottage garden is complete without these blue flowers swaying on the breeze.

With their shaggy blooms, bachelor buttons add homespun charm as few other flowers can do. And they’re easy enough for even the most novice gardener to grow.

If your garden is awash in pinks, reds, oranges and yellows, and you’re looking for a pop of blue – look no further than this charming flower.

Bachelor’s Button – Cornflower – Bluebottle

Centaurea cyanus, or cornflower, as it’s also known, isn’t a native to the States. The meadow flower we all know and love is from Europe. This lovely blue flower is a cautionary tale, as it’s now endangered in its native home because of intensive herbicide use in commercial agriculture over the decades.

Bachelor button is naturalized here in the States, Australia, and other parts of the world. Meanwhile, the UK works to actively bring this bright blue bloom back from the brink at home.

There are numerous reasons why the humble bachelor button deserves a spot in your garden or landscape.

1. Easy to Grow

Whether you start them from seed indoors, direct sow them or buy nursery starts, bachelor buttons are easy to grow. The seeds are easy to germinate, and seedlings handle transplanting well. They’re also quite unfussy about soil conditions, and while they prefer sandy loam, they will grow in even poor soil. It’s this characteristic that has allowed them to dot the landscape of nearly all fifty states. (Sorry, Alaska.)

2. One Tough Flower

Don’t let their delicate appearance fool you. You’d be hard-pressed to find a hardier summertime bloom. Crappy soil? Grow where you’re planted, baby. Heavy winds and rain from summer storms? Still standing tall, still gorgeous. Extreme heat and drought? Pfft, you wish you looked this good in this heat. Frost hardy? Honey, I can handle -20F, and they call me an annual.

Despite their fragile appearance, I’m always amazed at how rugged these flowers are.

When I planted my seedlings in the garden this spring, I came out a few days later to find them all yanked up and pitched in the yard. I may have accused the Sweetheart of “weeding.” (Turns out it was rabbits; sheepish apologies were made by me while my sweetie put up rabbit fencing around the garden.) I picked up all the seedlings, plunked them back in their holes and watered them well. All of them survived and are thriving.

3. Disease and Pest Free

If you’re tired of wondering what’s eating your plants or what that weird spot is on the leaves, plant bachelor buttons. These sturdy little flowers have almost no disease or pest issues. On occasion, they can pick up powdery mildew or aphids; in either case, it’s rarely a major issue.

4. Low Maintenance

These blue blooms are perfect if you want abundant flowers without the hassle of pruning, deadheading, and special fertilizers. Once established, the bachelor button is truly a set-it-and-forget-it flower. They’ll take care of themselves. Most grow so prolifically that the only maintenance you might need is pinching them back occasionally.

5. Not Just Cornflower Blue

Despite cyan being in their name, these flowers come in various shades. From the traditional cornflower blue to white, pale pink, magenta and purple, the bachelor button comes in many cool colors to compliment the warmer tones of most summer flowers.

6. Fill Sparse Areas

Aside from offering beautiful flowers with equally attractive foliage, bachelor button is a great choice to fill in sparse areas that need color. The plants will fill in and spread quickly, even within a season. This plant looks great as a border along buildings, fences or stone walls. Plant bachelor buttons if you’ve got bare ground and want to keep weeds out.

7. A Pollinator Favorite

As soon as the sun hits my bachelor buttons, they are alive with the buzz of native pollinators. The bachelor button is a great choice if you want to add flowers to your garden or landscape that will attract pollinators. The nectar of bachelor buttons is especially sweet, making it a great flower to grow if you keep bees.

8. Bachelor Button – Fruiting Vegetable Companion Plant

In the same vein, vegetable gardeners, if you struggle with pollination issues in your garden, put in a few bachelor buttons. Your squash, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and other flowering vegetables will thank you with abundant fruit.

Bachelor buttons attract numerous predatory insect species, such as ladybugs and lacewings. If you struggle with pest issues, plant bachelor buttons to attract an army of pest-eating insects.

9. A Lovely Cut Flower with Big Rustic Charm

If fresh-cut flowers are a part of your summer gardening efforts, be sure to include bachelor button. While their stems need a light hand so they don’t snap, the shaggy flowers are a perfect addition to any cut flower arrangement. The blooms last surprisingly well, looking lovely even as the pigment in the petals fades.

Their gorgeous silver-green foliage is the perfect filler to make the blooms stand out. Add a few stems with unopened buds to your arrangement for visual interest, and the buds will bloom even after being cut.

How to Grow Bachelor Buttons

Start bachelor buttons inside from seed roughly four weeks before your last frost. Alternatively, you can sow them directly in the fall if your winters don’t drop too far below 0F. Transfer outside after all danger of frost has passed and you’ve hardened them off for a week.

As we’ve already discussed, bachelor buttons aren’t picky about soil and will grow almost anywhere. If you want to make them extra happy, add a trowelful of compost in the hole before you plant them.

Choose a spot for your bachelor buttons where they will receive full sun for at least six hours a day to get the most blooms. In especially hot climates, plant them where they will receive some afternoon shade.

Water them frequently until they’re established. Once they have started to grow well and have a good root system, they rarely need watering other than rain. Only in severe drought conditions will they need a helping hand from you.

Give them plenty of room to sprawl, and don’t crowd them together. A single plant will grow between two and three feet tall and about a foot and a half wide. They will continue to spread throughout the growing season if you let them, although you can prune them quite hard without hurting the plant.

While fertilizer generally isn’t necessary, if you wish to get more blooms, use a fertilizer with extra phosphorous once you notice buds forming.

Bachelor button begins setting buds once temperatures are consistently in the 50s and will continue blooming until cold weather returns.

The post 9 Reasons to Grow Bachelor Buttons & Cornflower Growing Tips appeared first on Rural Sprout.

If there’s a universal truth we witness over and over again in the garden, it’s that nature abhors a vacuum.

A gap – any gap – will quickly be filled. Even the tiniest voids you wouldn’t think capable of harboring life will, and they do.

Life finds a way. Like volunteer tomatoes growing out of a crack in the sidewalk while your pampered ones struggle in the garden.

Yup, plants are weird.

One of the most irksome sites for weeds to grow is between the gaps of the hardscape.

Here, in the spaces around stone pathways and patios, dandelions, crabgrass, spurge, plantain, clovers, and prickly thistles will happily grow.

Pull them up, and things will look neat and tidy for a little while. But then, a week or two later, a new wild plant is sure to pop up in the old weed’s place.

The only way to save yourself from this repetitive and fairly pointless task is to physically block them out, so unwanted plants gain no foothold. Fill the vacuum, so to speak, and – voilà – no more weeds in your pavers.

You could use polymeric sand to fill the joints between stones – that’s what most people do. But where’s the green thumbedness in that?

Qualities to Look for in Gap-Filling Plants

Ground-covering plants are wonderful living mulches, protecting bare areas from weeds and looking good while they do it.

When betwixt and between pathway and patio stone, ground covers will soften the edges of the hardscape and tie it in with the greenery of the garden.

Filling in the gaps with dense carpets of lush growth is a charming way to make meandering paths and sitting areas warmer and more inviting places.

With a planted-up hardscape, you can save heaps of cash by leaving larger gaps between the flagstone slabs and blocks. By filling the in-betweens with lovely greenery, there will be fewer stones required to purchase and no need to do time-consuming stone cutting so they fit perfectly together.

But not any ground cover will do as a filler of stone gaps. To be considered “steppable”, plants should have these traits:

A height of no more than 4” tall

Low-growing plants won’t interfere with foot traffic, become tripping hazards, or obscure the beautiful stonework.

Short plants that grow mostly flat to 4 inches in height are the ideal size for interplanting in pavers.

Dense foliage and habit

A plant with dense foliage and a creeping habit will better crowd out the weeds and quickly occupy the spaces between stones.

Paver plants should be vigorous growers that self-propagate in thick mats. Ideally, they’ll be low-maintenance as well and require very little by way of encouragement to spread.

A tough and hardy constitution

These plants should be about as tough as weeds, shrugging off growing conditions that would cause most other cultivars to fade.

To be a steppable ground cover, plants will certainly need to bounce back after being crushed underfoot. Some plants can withstand light foot traffic with the occasional misstep, but others will hold up exceedingly well in heavily-trod pathways.

Another thing to bear in mind is whether your stonework is located in full sun.

The pavers will heat up considerably in a sunny location, so anything planted there should be heat-tolerant and drought-resistant too.

10 Best Ground Covers for Pavers

1. Creeping Thyme (Thymus serpyllum)

Creeping thyme is the traditional stone filler pick, and it surely is one of the finest for adding more color and fragrance to your stepping stones and pathways. It also makes an excellent lawn.

Producing dense and fluffy mounds, 2 to 3 inches tall, creeping thyme spreads by setting down roots along its trailing stems. From June to September, the tiny green elliptical leaves are hidden by masses of deep pink tubular flowers – to the utter delight of bees and butterflies.

Though creeping thyme looks delicate, this plant has a hardy constitution. Native to the dry regions of Northern Europe, it thrives in poor soils and even no soil at all – it will grow on rocks! – and has excellent drought tolerance. All creeping thyme needs in return is lots of sunshine and good drainage.

Plus, it holds up well against occasional to quasi-regular trampling. Crushing, stepping on, and brushing against creeping thyme will release the most delectable herbal, earthy, and slightly minty scent.

Hardiness zone: 4 to 8

Sun exposure: Full sun

Height: 2 to 3 inches

Foot traffic: Moderate

2. Moss Phlox (Phlox subulata)

Moss phlox – or creeping phlox – is a lovely native plant that’s found growing in dry, rocky, and sandy spots in eastern and central North America.

A drought-tolerant creeper, it forms an evergreen carpet of small, narrow, needle-like leaves that average 4 to 6 inches in height. Moss phlox flowers profusely with notched  5-petal blossoms in shades of pink, purple, blue, white, or red, from April to June. In spring, it’s a pollinator magnet, so be careful where you step.  

Although moss phlox tolerates light and infrequent traipsing, keep this gorgeous ground cover intact by planting it along the sides and edges of paver paths.

Hardiness zone: 3 to 9

Sun exposure: Full sun

Height: 4 to 6 inches

Foot traffic: Light

3. Blue Star Creeper (Isotoma fluviatilis)

Blue star creeper is another stepping stone favorite, especially in areas with dappled sunlight and moist soil.

Strong, vigorous, and stunning, blue star creeper forms a tightly-knit turf of tiny oblong leaves a half-inch in length. The lovely green carpet is extra wonderful when it blooms with dainty, star-shaped, light blue flowers beginning in early spring and continuing into summer.

Found growing on mud and moist sand along creeks and streams in its Australian homeland, blue star creeper loves wet feet. You’ll have more success growing it in naturally moist and shaded parts of the hardscape.

Hardiness zone: 5 to 9

Sun exposure: Full sun to part shade

Height: 2 to 3 inches

Foot traffic: Moderate

4. Irish Moss (Sagina subulata)

Like a lush emerald green carpet, Irish moss is a compact ground-hugging plant that grows 1 to 2 inches tall.

It has slender feathery leaves that resemble moss, but Irish moss is not a true moss since it bears flowers. These are petite, white, and star-shaped, appearing in late spring and blooming sporadically throughout the growing season.

Between generous self-seeding and creeping stems, Irish moss is quick to fill in spaces around stepping stones and flagstones. The plants are shallow-rooted and prefer even moisture so consider growing Irish moss along partly shaded paths.

Hardiness zone: 4 to 8

Sun exposure: Full sun to part shade

Height: 1 to 2 inches

Foot traffic: Light

5. Green Carpet (Herniaria glabra)

Living up to its name, green carpet is a sprawler that grows close to the ground in thick mats. With foliage soft enough to step on with bare feet, the leaves are small and ovate with fleshy, succulent stems.

Also known as rupturewort, green carpet is an evergreen plant that transitions to reddish bronze over winter.

Green carpet grows only 2 to 3 inches high. It’s a drought-tolerant plant from Europe, where it grows in dry, sandy, and rocky places in the wild. Give it a well-draining location, and it’s practically maintenance-free.

Hardiness zone: 5 to 10

Sun exposure: Full sun to part shade

Height: 2 to 3 inches

Foot traffic: Light

6. White Stonecrop (Sedum album ‘Murale’)

A dwarf cultivar of white stonecrop, ‘Murale’ is a low-grower that tops out at 2 to 3 inches in height.

Growing in clumps, it’s a consummate creeper with fleshy, oblong leaves that spiral up the stem. It roots wherever stem nodes touch the ground, and – like most succulents – will propagate itself from detached leaves.  

The foliage is bright green during the summer months and turns fiery orange to deep red in autumn. In mid-summer, pretty white flowers arise on clusters above the foliage on reddish stems. The blooms are especially attractive to butterflies.

As a succulent, Murale is heat and drought tolerant and prefers well-draining sandy soils with low levels of fertility.

Hardiness zone: 3 to 9

Sun exposure: Full sun

Height: 2 to 3 inches

Foot traffic: Moderate

7. Corsican Mint (Mentha requienii)

Corsican mint is a miniature herb that grows low but spreads wide.

Practically flat, it reaches a maximum height of 1 inch. It bears small, rounded green leaves on thin stems that root as they grow, spreading out as much as 2 feet.

From June to August, tiny lilac-colored flowers bloom – so small that they are easily missed.

Similar to other Mentha varietals, Corsican mint will perform best in rich, moist, well-draining soils. Since it’s not drought-tolerant, consider planting it in a spot with afternoon shade.

When Corsican mint’s leaves are bruised or crushed by footfalls, it releases a delicious minty-sage fragrance. The foliage is edible as well, traditionally used as a flavoring for crème-de-menthe, teas, and salads.

Hardiness zone: 6 to 9

Sun exposure: Full sun to part shade

Height: 0.5 to 1 inch

Foot traffic: Light

8. Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans)

Creeping mazus is a robust little ground cover that puts up with a fair bit of abuse by foot. Along with resilience, it’s a comely plant that grows bright green, narrow, slightly toothy leaves up to an inch long.

A dense matting spreader, creeping mazus tops out at 2 inches high. From late spring to early summer, it supports pollinators with small 2-lipped flowers. These are purplish blue with eye-catching markings in yellow and white.

In its native Himalayan range, creeping mazus thrives in damp meadows and the edges of streams and rivers. In the home garden, it will grow best situated in similarly wet and moist milieus.

Hardiness zone: 5 to 8

Sun exposure: Full sun to part shade

Height: 2 inches

Foot traffic: Moderate

9. Brass Buttons (Leptinella squalida)

Beloved for its finely textured foliage, brass buttons has delicately dissected leaves that resemble tiny fern fronds. Massed together, they form a lush and thick carpet about 0.5 to 2 inches high.

Brass buttons provides a splendid contrast against other leafy shapes in the landscape. The foliage is mainly green with purple, gray and black streaks, turning a reddish hue in autumn. The plant is evergreen in mild climates. Where winters are harsh, it will die back to the ground but will return in spring.

Although the flowers are its namesake, brass button blooms are small and inconspicuous – round like buttons and yellow-green in color. These arrive in late spring and are followed by teeny fruits.

As far as steppable ground covers go, brass buttons is fairly robust to higher levels of foot traffic. In its native New Zealand, it is often used as a lawn and turf substitute.

Hardiness zone: 4 to 10

Sun exposure: Full sun to part shade

Height: 0.5 to 2 inches

Foot traffic: Moderate

10. Mosses, Liverworts, and Hornworts

Nature will throw a ton of unkempt and undesirable weeds our way – but not always. We can sometimes get the perfect plant to grow between pavers by doing absolutely nothing.

The Embryophyte clade, consisting of mosses, liverworts, and hornworts, are low-growing plants with a dense and creeping habit. And they are extremely tough and highly treadable.

Ubiquitous in moist and shaded habitats all over the world, there is likely a native Embryophyte growing nearby on soil, rocks, trees, or fallen logs. As non-vascular plants, they lack true leaves, stems, roots, and flowers and draw in moisture and nutrients through their leaf-like surfaces.

They are pioneer plants, first to arrive and restore barren lands. These intriguing and odd-looking greens are valuable for building soil by cycling nutrients and providing a habitat for insects and microorganisms.

Feather Mosses (Rhynchostegium spp.)create soft and pillowy cushions between the narrowest of gaps. It reproduces with reddish beaked capsules that arise gracefully above the greenery.

Liverworts (Marchantiophyta spp.) have flat, overlapping, irregularly shaped leaves. Some species reproduce asexually via small cup-like structures on the leaf surface. Others, like common liverwort, have separate male and female reproductive organs; flat discs produce sperm while starry-topped stalks contain the ova.

Hornworts (Anthocerotophyta spp.) are similar in appearance to liverworts, but have flattened ribbon-like leaves that fork into a Y or horned shape.

If you luck into having an Embryophyte already colonizing your stonework, leave them where they are and enjoy some zero-maintenance ground cover. If not, these plants can be transplanted by carefully removing a sample from the parent plant and gently tucking them into stone crevices.

Tips for Growing Plants Between Pavers

Prep the gaps: Stepping stones, flagstone patios, and paver blocks are usually sitting atop compacted soil and several inches of sand. Make the space more hospitable to plant life by digging out a few inches of soil between the stones. Replace it with rich compost to give your ground-huggers an excellent start.

Space plants 6 to 9 inches apart: You can direct seed, start seeds indoors, or purchase flats to get your ground covers started. Set them a ways apart, and you’ll save time and money by letting the creepers do most of the filling in.

Let plants get established: Newly planted ground covers are fragile at first. Avoid stepping on them for at least a few weeks so they can grow freely and establish their roots.

Give plants consistent moisture: The trick to getting plants established is water, and steppables are no exception. For the first few weeks, check in on plants every day and give them a drink when they need it. Use a spray bottle or mister to moisten the more delicate specimens.

The post 10 Ground Covers to Grow Between Patio Pavers and Stone Paths appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Bindweed is undoubtedly one of the toughest weeds to ever make its way into your garden. Even the name strikes fear into most gardeners’ hearts. Bindweed. Is your pulse racing now, too?

This invasive creeper can be a real pain, taking over entire flower beds and gardens if not dealt with. But that’s the problem, right? How do you deal with it? Can you ever get rid of it? Let’s take a few calming breaths, and we’ll learn how to tackle this tangled intruder.

A Bindweed Primer

Okay, now that our pulses have returned to a normal range, let’s look at the bindweed basics. After all, it was Sun Tzu that said, “Know thine enemy…” If you’re well into your hundred battles against bindweed, it will help to learn a bit about this formidable opponent.

Bindweed is the common name for several species of flowering plants in the Convolvulaceae family. You’re most likely to deal with field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) and hedge bindweed (Calystegia sepium). Bindweed is not only a nuisance in North America, but also to gardeners and commercial farmers in other parts of the world, including Europe and Asia.

The plants are perennial vines with creeping stems that can grow up to several meters long. The leaves are spear-shaped (they look a bit like common sorrel) and alternate along the stem. Despite what a pain this weed can be, the flowers are quite pretty; trumpet-shaped and white, pale pink, or even light purple, depending on the species.

The name “bindweed” comes from the plant’s twining habit, as it wraps around other plants, structures and itself for support as it grows. The longer it’s left to its own devices, the more net-like it becomes, which is why it’s so difficult to control once it gets a hold.

Morning Glory vs. Bindweed

While they are members of the same family, they are not the same plant. Many folks mix them up because they have similar trumpet-shaped flowers, and both are vining. The morning glory (Ipomoea) is an annual flower with blooms that open…wait for it…in the morning.

I know; I was shocked, too; never saw it coming.

They are lovely and perfect for training up a trellis or string. I’m pretty sure everyone’s grandmother grew these each summer.

Here is a list of key differences to help you tell them apart.

Morning Glories:

• Tender annual
• Will die off with the first frost
• Heart-shaped leaves
• Blooms are 3”- 4” across; blue, purple, and fuchsia – generally bright colors.

Bindweed:

• Perennial forged in the fires of Mordor
• Comes back with a vengeance taking up more land each year
• Spear-shaped leaves (see Mordor origins)
• Tiny blooms of white or pale pink, 1 – 1 ½” across
• Will be the first flower to bloom after a nuclear holocaust

Look, every family has a few bad seeds; for Convolvulaceae, it’s bindweed. Let’s not hold that against morning glories, who seem to have picked up a “guilty by association” reputation because of the invasiveness of bindweed. Please feel free to plant morning glories with wild abandon and enjoy their ephemeral and temporary beauty until your first hard frost.

Why is bindweed so hard to get rid of?

Like most things that affect the health of your garden, it’s often what you don’t see that can lead to problems. What you can see of bindweed above the soil is nothing compared to what’s happening beneath it. Bindweed can send roots deep into the soil, often a yard down into the ground. Because of their deep root systems, they are better equipped to out-compete neighboring plants during periods of drought.

Then there are the rhizomes.

The plant spreads horizontally through the ground via a vast system of underground rhizomes. Even if you’re diligent in yanking up all the weeds above ground, if you don’t dig up the rhizomatic network, you’ll be dealing with more bindweed before you know it.

The plant will easily grow back from the smallest of fragments left in the ground.

And don’t forget the seeds.

The seeds are located at the base of each flower, each containing 1-4 seeds. Your average bindweed plant can produce around 500 seeds a year. And the best news yet – the seeds are viable for about 50 years, often lying dormant in the soil until it’s disturbed.

Scattered on the wind, carried by birds and other animals, swept away by water, or even our moving the plants around, more seeds are dispersed. It’s no wonder this stuff is so hard to get rid of.

Yeah, my pulse is starting to climb again too.

But I figured it’s best to get the bad news out of the way first. The good news is you can conquer bindweed. Will it be easy? No. Will you need to salt the earth, sell your home and move? Probably not, but let’s not rule it out.

Why Most Herbicides Don’t Work

When dealing with a plant that’s as aggressive as bindweed, the temptation is to grab a bottle of that stuff that shall-not-be-named that starts with ‘R.’ But the problem is most herbicides aren’t effective when it comes to bindweed.

Remember, we’re talking about a plant with roots that can grow nearly a yard deep and rhizomes that spread out in every direction. Killing off the portion of the plant that you can see isn’t going to take care of the problem below the soil. The bindweed will come back with a vengeance.

Whether or not you prefer natural gardening methods, if you have a bindweed problem, they are the best line of defense. Certainly not the easiest, but the best.

A Combination of Strategies is Required

Adopting the following five strategies gives you the best chance of successfully removing and managing your bindweed problem. You need to target, not only the plant above ground but, more importantly, root and rhizome systems below the soil. It may take more than one season to see consistent results, but keep at it.

1. Smother It – Optional

Although this first step is optional, it can help weaken the plant.

Cover the infestation with a thick layer of mulch, landscape fabric, or both to smother the plant and prevent sunlight from reaching it. While this is unlikely to kill it, the lack of sun will weaken the plant as it can’t photosynthesize. This makes the next steps easier.

2. Rip It Out – Carefully

The first step in managing bindweed is to remove the plant above ground. As frustrated as you may be, it’s best not to yank up the plant indiscriminately. Wear gloves and carefully pull the plant up, at its base. Try to get as much of the root to come with it as you can. Wait for a day or two of rain first, and work when the soil is softer.

Once you’ve removed the above-ground portions, go back over the area and do your best to pull up the remaining roots or rhizomes sticking up out of the soil.

3. Dig Up the Top Layer of Soil – Repeatedly

We’re big fans of no-dig gardening at Rural Sprout, but digging the soil is a must when it comes to bindweed. For heavily affected areas, it’s a good idea to dig up the top layer of soil after you’ve removed as much of the plant growing on the surface as possible. You’ll expose the rhizomes and roots to air, which will help to dry them out and further weaken them.

Continue to dig and turn that top layer of soil several times for a month to really dry out and weaken the plant.

4. Cover, Cover, Cover

One of the best things you can do to prevent and keep bindweed from coming back is to keep your soil covered. And I don’t mean with mulch. (Although that helps.) Soil is not meant to be bare; when it is, there are always opportunistic plants ready to fill the gap. Literally. Unfortunately, those plants are usually weeds.

If you want to avoid trouble or keep from inviting it back, never leave your soil bare. Grow a diverse array of plants in your yard and garden all year, and they will out-compete any new bindweed seedlings. You can even grow cover crops in the winter to prevent bindweed from popping up in the spring.

5. Be Diligent in the Fight

Once you’ve removed bindweed, it’s important to regularly check to see if it’s growing back or producing new seedlings. You’ll want to pull anything up before it gets a chance to become established again.

At the end of the day, controlling bindweed is often a long-term commitment. You need to be persistent in removing any new growth. Using multiple control methods like those listed above will be your best bet in the long run.

If you start losing automobiles, pets or family members among the bindweed, you may wish to contact your local agricultural extension office or a professional weed control expert for help.

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