Far too often, tarragon is one of those herbs that gets shuffled to the back of your herb collection to be forgotten. But the wise chef knows the power of this classic culinary herb and the incredible flavor it imparts to a dish.

While tarragon dries well, it’s best when snipped fresh. Luckily, the “King of Herbs,” as it’s known in France, is quite easy to grow. So, if you’ve ever thought about planting tarragon or if you should even bother, look no further – this is your complete guide to growing and using tarragon.

Tarragon is a perennial herb (grown as an annual in some places) known for its distinct anise-like flavor and aroma.

Because it’s easy to grow, tarragon is the perfect addition to any herb garden, including the one on your windowsill. Consider this your one-stop comprehensive tarragon guide, where we will cover the ins and outs of growing tarragon, dealing with common pests and problems that may arise, and how to fix them. Finally, we’ll look at how best to use tarragon in the kitchen so that you won’t have any dusty, forgotten bottles hiding in your pantry anymore.

Getting Started – Which Tarragon & Where?

Before you get started, it’s a good idea to select the appropriate variety for your zone and find the ideal spot in your garden.

There are three main types of tarragon: French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) Russian tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) and Mexican tarragon (Tagetes lucida).

French tarragon grows to 2-3 feet tall and around a foot to a foot and a half wide. It is winter hardy in US zones 4-9, but if you live in an area with especially harsh winters, you may need to cover or mulch your tarragon. French tarragon is the most notable variety in culinary use.

Russian tarragon is an excellent choice if you’re looking for more of a bush habit, as it can grow up to five feet tall and roughly three feet wide. It’s also hardy in US zones 4-9 and is a bit tougher than its French counterpart. However, it’s generally accepted that Russian tarragon has less flavor than French tarragon.

Mexican tarragon, although not a true tarragon (a member of the marigold family), is a great alternative if you live in warmer regions, as both the French and Russian varieties can be tricky in warmer climates. Its size is identical to French tarragon. Mexican tarragon grows best in US hardiness zones 9-11, where it can be grown as a perennial.

Choosing where to grow your tarragon is important as they are a bit finicky about soil and require plenty of sun.

At least six hours of direct sunlight daily will keep tarragon happy. They do not tolerate shade or damp areas, as they’re susceptible to powdery mildew.

Well-draining soil is crucial for tarragon. Adding organic matter, such as compost or leaf mold, will improve drainage and add nutrients to the soil. Heavy clay soil will also benefit from the addition of a bit of sand.

Planting Tarragon

Tarragon can be propagated either from seeds, cuttings or division. However, growing from seeds can be challenging. If you choose to grow tarragon from seed, you may wish to germinate the seeds on a damp paper towel before moving them into a soilless potting mixture. If you plant seeds directly in the soil, don’t cover them; just press them lightly into the soil.

Cuttings can be propagated in water or soil like many other herbs.

Choose a stem of tarragon 6-8 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom half of the plant. Put the cuttings in water and change the water once a week until roots appear. Once the roots are about 2 inches long, you can transplant the cuttings in soil. Place stripped stems in moist soilless potting mix. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. New roots will grow in a couple of weeks. Harden off cuttings before transplanting them outdoors.

Divide tarragon in the spring or fall to make new plants.

Because of its culinary popularity, you can easily find tarragon seedlings that can be planted directly in your garden.

When should you plant tarragon?

Plant tarragon in early spring after the last frost date or in the fall, allowing for plenty of time for the plant to become established before the first frost. If you’re planting in the fall, you will want to cover and mulch the plant for the first winter.

Spacing

Tarragon needs plenty of space to ensure proper airflow to prevent disease. If you’re growing French or Mexican tarragon, space the plants about 18 to 24 inches apart. For Russian tarragon, you’ll want to give them even more space, between 24-48 inches apart.

Planting

Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball of the transplant. Add a little compost to the bottom of the hole and place the transplant in the ground. Be sure the crown of the plant is level with the soil surface. Backfill the hole and gently firm the soil around the plant. Water in your new tarragon as soon as it’s planted.

Caring for and Maintaining Tarragon

While it’s not a fussy herb, tarragon has a few basic needs that you need to take care of to ensure you have a healthy, thriving plant.

Watering

It’s best not to let the soil dry out, as tarragon prefers slightly moist soil. You’ll need to water the plants during dry spells. But be careful not to overwater, as tarragon is susceptible to root rot. Making sure you have well-draining soil is the best way to avoid the problem.

Fertilizer

If you’ve added compost to the soil, you will most likely not need to add fertilizer. It’s always a good idea to test your soil before adding fertilizers to determine any deficiencies. Because tarragon is a leafy plant, it needs nitrogen to grow well. You can plant tarragon amidst your legumes, which will happily provide all the nitrogen needed.

An important note: don’t go crazy with the fertilizer, as too much can affect your tarragon’s flavor. Again, testing your soil before fertilizing is always a good idea.

Pruning

Nearly all herbs benefit from regular pruning to encourage new growth and maintain a pleasing shape. Trim the stems back by one-third in early spring or after the first frost in fall. Of course, regular trimming as you use the herb will help too.

Growing Tarragon in Containers

You can easily grow tarragon in containers if you provide proper drainage and ensure the planter gets plenty of sunshine. If you’re growing tarragon indoors, place it in a sunny window for the best results. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry, and tip out any excess water in the saucer after watering.

You will need to fertilize more often when growing tarragon in containers. Again, choose a balanced fertilizer and be careful not to over-fertilize.

If you grow tarragon indoors, it won’t usually reach the full mature size it would outdoors. But if you don’t have a lot of space, this is a pro rather than a con.

Common Tarragon Growing Problems and How to Fix Them

Despite its resilience, tarragon may encounter a few issues during cultivation. Here are some common problems and their solutions.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery white splotches on the leaves are a sign of powdery mildew. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and use an organic fungicide to clear it up. If plants are too close together, prune them back hard and move them apart in the spring or fall.

Root Rot

Tarragon doesn’t like wet feet! Overwatering or poorly draining soil can cause root rot. Like many other things in life, prevention is the best cure. Start with well-draining soil and avoid overwatering tarragon, which is easier said than done during a wet, rainy season.

Lack of Flavor

Tarragon should be pungent, with a nice anise-like bit to it. If you find your tarragon is lacking, it probably needs more sunlight, or you may have used too much fertilizer. If you haven’t fertilized at all, this lack of flavor can be caused by missing nutrients.

Drying Tarragon

Tarragon dries beautifully, but the flavor compounds are highly volatile and susceptible to heat and light. The best way to dry tarragon is by hanging it somewhere dark and dry with plenty of airflow. Cheryl’s herb drying rack is perfect! A small fan can help speed up the process.

If you use a dehydrator, set it to its lowest temperature.

Store dried tarragon in a cool, dark place.

The Fun Part – What to Do With Your Tarragon

Put it on chicken. The end.

Just kidding.

Tarragon’s unique flavor profile lends itself to a variety of dishes. Here are a few popular uses:

• Seasoning: Tarragon is a staple in French cuisine, adding depth and complexity to dishes like sauces, dressings, and soups.
• Vinegars and Oils: Infuse vinegar or oil with tarragon to create aromatic and flavorful bases for marinades, dressings, and vinaigrettes.
• Poultry, Fish and Eggs: Tarragon pairs exceptionally well with poultry, eggs and fish, especially chicken. Use it as a seasoning for roasted chicken or grilled fish, or incorporate it into creamy sauces. Tarragon chicken salad sandwiches are a summertime staple in my kitchen.
• Herbal Tea: Steep tarragon leaves in hot water for a soothing and refreshing herbal tea. Add a touch of honey and lemon for enhanced flavor. Serve it iced for the perfect summer refreshment.

Tarragon – a helper in the garden

Aside from creating fragrant and flavorful dishes in your kitchen, tarragon is an excellent plant to add to your garden and landscape. The natural scent of tarragon attracts many helpful insects to your garden, including predatory wasps, ladybugs and green lacewings. These predatory bugs help tip the scales in your garden’s never-ending pest war.

The post How To Grow Tarragon: Best Varieties, Care Guide & Uses appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Wise gardeners know that herbs make excellent companion plants. And any gardener who enjoys cooking will surely have culinary herbs among their vegetables each year. But many folks don’t realize they’re forgetting something important before planting their herb seedlings in the garden – pruning them.

If you want to enjoy bigger harvests (All the pesto! Sage for days! Gallons of peppermint iced tea!) and stronger plants that are less prone to storm damage, then pruning your herbs before you plant them in the garden is the way to go.

Why It’s Important to Prune Some Herbs Early

Many of us prune garden-dwelling herbs when they start to invade where they’re not wanted. And then there are those of us who don’t bother pruning them. (Hi friend, I saved you a seat.) But if you want to set yourself up for success and a bountiful harvest of fragrant, flavorful herbs, the best time to prune them is while they are still small, before the plant is established.  

By pruning certain herbs early and relatively hard, you are, in essence, inhibiting the plant’s ability to photosynthesize. In response, the plant will send out enzymatic signals triggering the plant to grow more leaves.

The plant will begin pushing out new growth wherever possible to compensate for the lost leaves.  

This is also the best way to correct leggy seedlings that are stretched a bit indoors. We’ll be cutting them back close to the base of the plant. All of the new growth resulting from this hard pruning creates a stronger, bushier foundation, making for a sturdier plant for the rest of the growing season.

You can say goodbye to tall, leggy herbs and herbs knocked down by heavy rains or windy storms. Doing a little trimming now ensures your plant has a strong, solid base.

What Herbs Benefit from a Pre-Garden Prune?

Many herbs will benefit from being pruned before they’re put in the ground, but not all. I use a simple rule to determine which herbs should be pruned and which shouldn’t.

If the herb grows new leaves/stems where an existing stem meets the central stem, then it should be pruned back before you plant it.

Your mints, basil, sage, lemon balm, thyme etc., all grow in such a manner that new leaves develop at the base of an existing leaf stem. These herbs tend to grow up more readily than out unless they’re encouraged to do so. This vertical growth often leads to leggy herbs all season long.

Herbs, like chamomile, which produce new growth from the center of the plant, like a fountain, won’t benefit from this kind of pruning, and it will hinder their growth.

As long as there are new leaves starting at the stems, you’re good to go.

How to Prune Herbs Before You Plant Them

Because we’ll be pruning the plant back pretty hard before planting it outside, it’s important to make sure all danger of frost has passed. You will also need to give the plants plenty of time to harden off, bringing them outside for longer periods leading up to when you plan to put them in the garden.

Ideally, you should prune your herbs a few days before you plan to plant them to give the plant a little time to recover before dealing with the stress of transplant shock. We all know this isn’t always possible, so don’t worry if you need to prune and plant on the same day. Your herbs will bounce back.  

Assess How Much to Cut

Remember, the goal here is to get rid of leggy and weak growth to create a sturdy crown for new growth. Pruning will also stimulate the remaining stem to grow thicker, too.

Take a look at the base of the plant; you will usually see new leaves growing close to the soil as well as a couple of inches up the stem. Look for where the plant really starts to stretch out; you’ll want to remove much of this growth. Don’t be afraid to really trim it back. The plant will recover and start pushing out lots of new growth shortly after.

I’ve found a good rule of thumb is to leave at least two sets of new leaves growing from the remaining stem.

Depending on how bushy your plant is, you may need to trim one stem at a time to determine how far down to cut. Other times you can make one clean cut across the whole plant, and it’s all set. Try to trim as close to the new growth as possible. The cut will scab over in a day or two, and before you know it, you’ll see those new leaves.

And don’t forget to eat what you prune!

Planting and After-Pruning Care

When planting your herbs, add a little compost to the bottom of the hole first. Fluff up the root ball a bit to loosen up the roots and plant the herb at the same level it was in the pot. Add a layer of mulch around the base of the plant to keep weeds at bay and hold in moisture.

Your herbs may look a little worse for wear for a few days, but they will bounce back quickly. By pruning them back, you’ve set yourself up for the bushiest, healthiest herbs. In a few weeks, if you want to encourage them to grow even bushier, consider pruning back taller growth once again. You’ll end up with sturdier plants overall.

The post My Herb Planting Trick For Growing Huge Plants appeared first on Rural Sprout.

When cooking dinner, do you ever wish to pluck a few fresh leaves from the nearest pot of aromatic greens to spice up whatever dish you are creating? If so, you may just be an herb-lover, a perennial forager or a budding chef. No matter what side of the wild herb or cultivated fence you are sitting on, we’ve made an easy-to-grow herb list just for you!

All of them are common, not overly needy, deliciously fragrant and nutritionally beneficial too. What’s not to love about adding abundant health to your homecooked meals?

While it is nicer-than-nice to grow herbs indoors, sometimes you’ll want to expand your area, and your growing skills, to the outside garden. From here, you will be able to harvest on a larger scale, so that you may even learn to dry your own herbs for winter storage too.

8 easiest herbs to grow outdoors or in containers

Plants need two basic elements to grow: water and sunlight.

6 hours of sun per day is best, but more is better.

As far as water preferences, plants will also prefer the non-chlorinated stuff, just like you and me.

You’ll also find, in time, that herbs, like all garden plants, produce more prolifically when they are loved, nurtured and tended to as well.

If you are growing plants indoors, this means that you will want to provide them with plenty of space in a clay or ceramic pot, with well-draining soil, and a saucer or plate to catch the runoff. Water your herbs deeply and infrequently for the best results. I’ve got everything you need to know about growing herbs indoors.

If you are planting herbs outside, you might choose to raise your environmental awareness as you grow your gardening skills. Consider companion planting as a means of controlling pests and attracting beneficial insects.

No matter whether you plan to plant your favorite herbs indoors or out, it may just be a lot easier than you think. Get excited and plant herbs not only because they taste amazing – they will take your homestead skills to a whole new level too!

Basil

How does your basil grow? Tall and woody, or lush and bushy?

Lovely as basil leaves are, they do tend to fall on the scraggly side of life when left to their own plans. But that all changes when you learn how to prune your basil plants properly.

If you are growing basil from seeds, start them indoors 6 weeks before your last expected spring frost.

To plant seeds outside, wait until soil temperatures warm up to at least 50°F before attempting to germinate anything.

If you desire to speed up the act of getting around to eating pesto, a faster way to see results is to propagate basil from cuttings.

Chives

Out in the garden, chives grow by bunches like crazy! Nearly every year they will need to be dug up and divided, so they can send up even more delicious green chives.

In late fall, at the end of the “growing season”, you can dig up a generous handful of chives from the garden, and replant it in a pot to leave on your sunny kitchen countertop all winter long. But, first you will want to force the leaves to die back. Then bring the potted chives into your home, in essence, tricking them into an earlier spring.

Combining efforts of growing both indoors and out, you will be able to harvest chives all throughout the seasons.

Don’t forget to eat the beautiful, aromatic flowers too!

Lemon balm

One of the hardiest herbs in our garden, outside of the vigorous chives, is lemon balm. It is an eager perennial that thrives outside, giving loads of lemony leaves, year after year. In the deepest winters it may need to be mulched, but it is tough and will keep on growing when you least expect to see it rise again.

Indoors, it is not quite the same hardy plant, yet it will still thrive given the right care.

As soon as your lemon balm is “harvestable”, gently remove the leaves (not more than 25% of the plant at once) and get ready to use it in lemonade, shortbread cookies and salads.

If it grows really well for you, here are 12+ Things To Do With Lemon Balm @ The Nerdy Farm Wife

Mint

An herb that is as easy to grow as it is hard to kill? That is mint, right down to the “t”. However, if it does ever become invasive, there are ways to get rid of it, for example, by pouring boiling water straight on it. It can also be kept under control by planting it in containers, if you are afraid to let it loose in your backyard.

For the sake of easy to grow herbs, let’s find out how to let mint thrive. With more than 7500 varieties of mint, it must not be all that hard!

Planting mint in containers is an uncomplicated and rewarding process. It takes full sun to partial shade, a fairly moist soil that will also tolerate drying out, and very little attention. All that is required, is to pinch it back when you find the time – when you grab a few leaves for a garnish.

The most common Lamiaceae mints are:

• peppermint
• spearmint
• apple mint
• pineapple mint
• chocolate mint
• ginger mint
• orange mint
• catmint

In containers, or in the ground, they will be right at home, ready for plucking whenever you need a few fresh leaves.

Related Reading: How To Grow Mint Plants Indoors

Oregano

Everyone will have their favorite herb on the list. Oregano is mine. Somehow, despite all efforts, I can never seem to grow enough of it. Or maybe I just use too much of it in cooking…

Either way, oregano is one herb that you must plant if you plan to eat Italian food of any kind.

Oregano can be started by seed, or divisions from a healthy plant. When growing oregano, it is important to keep in mind that it prefers a warm climate. Give it as much heat and sunlight as you possibly can – planting it next to your peppers and tomatoes in the garden.

Parsley

Classic herbs should always be included in your herb garden, parsley is one of these. Chop it up finely and add it to your Hollandaise sauce, mince it and fold it into your quiche, use it as garnish next to your homegrown heirloom tomatoes. You can even toss a stem or two into your morning smoothie, there will always be a time and place for eating parsley.

But buying fresh herbs from the store doesn’t always make a lot of sense, and often it can be a waste of money. How often has it happened that your parsley got all slimy before you had a chance to use it? That’s the main reason for growing your own herbs – so you can harvest them fresh, right when you need them.

And you are more likely to use fresh green herbs when you can harvest just as much as you need, which is often just a leaf or two.

So, parsley. On potatoes…

If you are starting parsley from seeds, sow them outdoors in spring, or early fall, if you are ultra-prepared! Germination is not always steady, so have patience.

Your indoor herb garden will benefit from a pot of parsley too. Just be sure to plant in well-draining potting soil, and give the parsley as much sun as it can handle, even if you have to take the pot directly out in the sunlight from time to time.

Thyme

When it comes to flu, cough and cold season, thyme is a wonderful herb to have on hand.

Thyme will help to boost your immune system with its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic qualities, as it supports your respiratory, digestive and nervous systems too.

If you feel a sore throat coming on, pour yourself a steaming mug of thyme tea, or add a sprig or two to your homemade healing chicken soup.

When planting thyme outside, consider that it is a drought-tolerant plant – don’t be tempted to overwater it!

Thyme is also one of those beneficial plants that will attract bees, so if you have room for more than 1 plant, make sure to fill up the space with thyme for all of nature to enjoy.

Rosemary

Another favorite herb to cultivate is rosemary.

Grow it for its many medicinal uses, grow it because it tastes amazing, grow it to make an infused rosemary honey or frozen lemon-rosemary ice cubes.

Rosemary is a hardy perennial that can survive for several years. That being said, growing rosemary from seed is a tedious process, and it is far better to propagate rosemary from softwood stem cuttings. Depending on your location, you may need to bring the plant in over winter, or heavily mulch it outside.

There are so many reasons to have rosemary in the garden – or on the kitchen counter, but only do so if you love it! This applies to any and all herbs you intend to grow, as well as all the fruits and veggies in your garden. The more you enjoy eating what you sow, the more you will take pleasure in growing them too.

So what will it be? A pinch of mint in your lemonade, or a handful of chives on your potato wedges?

Possibilities for growing herbs, indoors or out, always abound! All it takes is a pot, some soil, seeds or cuttings, sunlight and water, not a lot of anything else.

The post 8 Easiest Herbs To Grow Outdoors Or In Containers appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Let’s get your burning question out of the way.

No, I’m sorry, but marshmallow plants do not grow marshmallows.

However, should you plant marshmallow in your yard, you can harvest the roots, and those can be used to make homemade marshmallows that will blow away those pasty store-bought things we’re all used to. (Use my girl Colleen’s recipe over at GrowForageCookFerment. It’s pretty amazing.)

Althaea officinalis, or marshmallow, sometimes spelled marsh mallow, is native to Europe, Western Asia and North Africa. As its name implies, it does well in moist soil areas, such as marshes.

It’s an herbaceous perennial with long, dense stems between three and four feet tall. The stems are covered in velvety, soft heart-shaped leaves and white flowers with a deep pink center. In the fall, the plant dies back before returning in the spring.

Even if you don’t plan on making the most delicious marshmallows you’ll ever dunk in your cocoa, there are some good reasons to grow marshmallow in your backyard or garden.

1. As a Beautiful Ornamental Perennial

If you’re looking to fill a space with plenty of greenery that will come back year after year, choose marshmallow. With its attractive pink or white flowers that bloom in the summer, this old-fashioned herb has lots of cottage garden charm. Its height can help hide things in your yard you would prefer to keep out of sight, like well covers.

It’s also a great choice if you want to help buffer sound in your backyard, as the dense vegetation helps to absorb street noise. Plant it around the edge of your yard for extra privacy.

2. Marshmallow Belongs in Every Herbalist’s Garden

The roots and leaves of marshmallow have been used for centuries in traditional medicine to soothe sore throats, coughs, and other respiratory issues. The marshmallow plant can make teas, tinctures, syrups, and even homemade cough drops.

3. You Can Eat Most of the Plant

Nearly every part of the plant is edible, making it perfect to have on hand if you’re a fan of “eating the weeds.” The roots can be boiled and mashed with butter and onions. The flowers and leaves make a tasty and pretty addition to salads. You can pickle the flower buds ala capers—sugar the flowers for cakes and cupcakes. The possibilities are endless.

Of course, you can also make everyone’s favorite sticky treat – marshmallows. If you’ve never had real marshmallows, you’re in for a real treat. While today’s modern confection might share the same name, it doesn’t contain any Althaea officinalis whatsoever. I think you’ll find once you’ve tasted the real deal, you won’t settle for the manufactured imitations.

4. Use Marshmallow to Improve the Soil

Heavy, compacted soil can make growing anything difficult, but rather than trying to fix it by digging it up, let nature do what nature does best.

Marshmallow is a good plant for improving soil structure, as it has a deep taproot that will “drill” down and break up compacted soil while adding back organic matter.

Plant marshmallow and let the roots do all the work while you enjoy a beautiful display of green with white and pink flowers. After a year or two, chop-and-drop the plant before it flowers, letting it break down into the soil further. You’ll find the resulting soil much improved.

If you’re planning a rain garden to mitigate pooling rainwater in your yard, then marshmallow is a perfect addition. The plant prefers moist areas and can help to absorb excess water in your yard.

5. Provide a Sanctuary for Pollinators & Other Wildlife

More and more gardeners are learning the benefits of letting all the critters and creepy crawlies hang out in their backyard; after all, it’s where they belong. Marshmallow is a fantastic plant for pollinators, not only because it provides them with nectar, but at the end of the season, it also makes an excellent habitat for native pollinators to lay their eggs and winter over.

Birds, mice, rabbits and other small creatures will appreciate the shelter provided among the tall green stalks of marshmallow as well. If you want to rewild your backyard, you can’t go wrong with Althaea officinalis.

6. Marshmallow Practically Grows Itself

Marshmallow is incredibly easy to grow. You can direct sow it right where you want it planted, and once it’s established, it virtually takes care of itself. There’s no complicated pruning or fertilizing, or staking. Just let it go. It’s a hardy, disease-resistant plant and rarely has issues with pests. What’s not to love?

Need more set it and forget plants? Check out these 18 Seld Seeding Flowers, Herbs and Veggies.

How to Grow Marshmallow

Choose a spot that receives full sun, mallow will grow in partial shade, but it does best in a sunny location. The best soil is loamy and moist, but if you’re using it to remediate harder soils, be sure to water it frequently.

Marshmallow can be direct seeded or started indoors. Sow seeds in the spring or fall directly into the ground or pots. Cover the seed with a thin layer of soil, and keep it consistently moist. Be patient, as marshmallow takes around three or four weeks to germinate.

Once the plant is established, you can divide the roots in spring or fall. It’s a fun perennial to share with friends and family.

If you’ve chosen a location where the soil is usually moist, you won’t need to water your marshmallow. But in other locations, you may need to water it during dry spells. Fertilize the plants in late spring or early summer with a balanced fertilizer.

Harvesting Marshmallow

If you plan on using the plant for medicinal or edible uses, harvest the leaves and flowers throughout the growing season. The roots should be harvested in the fall after collecting and storing nutrients for the year.

Marshmallow Will Spread

While it’s not labeled as an invasive species, marshmallow can spread quickly, so keep an eye on the plant and remove any unwanted shoots to keep it in check.

I hope you have recovered from the disappointment of learning that marshmallows don’t grow on trees. But luckily, you now have the means to grow the plant that will allow you to make the real thing. And who wouldn’t want s’more of that?  

If you like marshmallow, don’t forget to check out beautyberry for a real backyard stunner.

The post 6 Reasons to Grow Marshmallow In Your Yard appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Oh, my friends, I hope you like basil. Like, really like basil because we’re going to share the secret to growing potted basil taller than you are. In the end, the basil reached a monstrous 6ft 5 inches. The best part is it’s relatively easy to do.

Are you intrigued? I thought you would be.

Let’s jump in.

We collaborated with a basil-growing genius (who wishes to remain anonymous – the basil paparazzi is fierce) and had him teach us his mystical basil-growing process so we could pass it on to our readers.

Ultimately, we were shocked to learn how easy it is to do. Everything he taught us makes perfect sense for growing insanely huge basil that will leave you gobsmacked, not to mention with enough pesto to feed an army.

Our Basil Guru attributes his ability to grow massive basil plants to a few simple factors –

• Healthy soil with the right nutrients
• An extensive root system
• Constant access to water
• Direct sunlight and high heat
• The correct pruning method

Now I know what you’re thinking, “But Tracey, that’s what you need to grow anything, whether it’s in a container or not.”

You’re right, but in this case, he got very specific about each of these, and while no one factor is more important than the other, each is imperative in his overall process for growing basil that results in massive bushes.

That’s right; I said bushes.

Growing in Containers – Why We Always Get it Wrong

Perhaps the secret to his success is that he got container-growing right.

His method focused on things we normally get wrong when container gardening. Remember back in Chemistry class when we talked about open and closed systems? Or how about homeostasis in Biology class, homeostasis being an equilibrium maintained within a habitat or system?

All these come into play when growing plants in containers, but it’s often difficult to get right until you start thinking about container growing as a closed system.

Homeostasis is much easier to maintain in a large, open system (say, a big vegetable patch in your backyard) than in a smaller closed one (that potted tomato growing on your porch).

If it doesn’t rain for a week, the vegetable patch will be okay. The plants naturally have larger root systems, meaning they have access to more nutrients and water deep in the ground, an open system.

That potted tomato, however, is a closed system, and a small one at that. The root system is limited to the pot size, and the plant only has access to the water and nutrients we add to the system. Naturally, in that tiny closed system, your tomato plant will die if it doesn’t receive water for a week.

If we want to achieve large growth in containers, we must mimic an open system within a closed one to achieve consistency. And our master grower did just that.

The Entire Process – From Start to Taller-Than-You-Are-Finish

Our expert grows his basil in a sunroom attached to his home. He photographed the entire growing season, from March through September, to show us what that looks like.

And the best part is it all starts with one of those small pots of basil you can pick up in any grocery store.

He notes that when you use these, it’s rarely just one plant but many tiny seedlings crammed into a small pot. He grew two pots of basil using the seedlings from just one grocery store pot. More about that later.

About His Growing Habitat

One of the key factors in our grower’s success is the heat and light where he grows his basil. He lives in South Wales, in the UK, and has an enclosed, southern-facing conservatory. During the peak growing season, temperatures easily reach 122 degrees F (or 50 degrees C) inside.

He noted this past year, they had a record-breaking heatwave in the UK, so the temperatures in the conservatory were likely even higher. So far, his highest recorded temperature was around 135 degrees F.

(I know, I’m sweating just thinking about it.)

Typically, extreme heat causes plants to slow their growth, as this kind of heat stresses the plant. However, because our grower was so diligent in ensuring the plant had access to water and nutrients, the plants took off instead.

For those of us without a conservatory, recreating these conditions may seem out of reach. Luckily, some well-made and inexpensive pop-up greenhouses are available these days, making it much easier to achieve these hothouse conditions.

Go Big or Go Home

One of the smartest things our grower does is choose the right pot. If you want to grow massive basil plants, you have to allow them to grow massive root systems, which means a really, really big pot. He emphasizes that it should be deep too.

As container gardeners, we’re terrible at knowing how big a pot to use; we usually choose something much too small. When picking out a pot, it’s best to think about what’s below the soil rather than above it.

Generally speaking, a plant will only grow as big as its root system can support.

Think about that large maple tree in the park. Everything you see above ground is supported by a root system below ground that’s as big or bigger. Impressive, right?

Keep this in mind when choosing a pot for your basil. (Or anything you choose to grow in containers.) You need something big enough to support a large root system. And remember, depth is important too; opt for a pot that is deeper than it is wide if you’re able.

For reference, the pots he used are 20”W x 15”H x 15.5”D. He purchased them at a popular home goods store in the UK. The rope-handled plastic tubs that you can easily find in feed and hardware stores are a suitable replacement.  

To allow the plant to absorb water, he drilled four drainage holes in the bottom of each pot.

He also purchased extra large saucers for the pots to sit in. These are necessary for this growing method as they ensure the plant has a constant water supply in these extreme temperatures.

To prevent the pot from sealing to the saucer, he placed several thin strips of wood in the bottom to elevate the pot a bit. We’ll get into watering further on.

Potting Up

One interesting difference in this method is potting up – as in, don’t do it. We’ve learned to start with small pots and pot up as the plants grow; however, if you want massive basil, he suggests you plant your seedlings directly in the large pot.

The reasoning behind this is simple – the plants have to search for water in a larger pot, so they develop huge root systems much faster. Having that large, well-established root system in place first allows for more prolific growth aboveground throughout the growing season.

Our Grower’s Choice of Soil Mix

Our basil growing master swears by “nutritious well-draining deep soil.” For this, he uses only two things – peat-free compost and horticultural grit.

He recommends mixing the two at a ratio of 10:1, compost to horticultural grit. He also suggests you alternate small layers of each, mix them thoroughly, and then add another layer to make distributing the two evenly easier.

Once the pot is filled with the growing medium, he gently removes the mass of basil seedlings from their tiny pot.

Then comes the careful and tedious work of teasing apart individual seedlings.

He assures us not to worry if we break apart a few roots in the process as they grow back quickly. However, he stresses the importance of being careful not to snap the small basil stems; once they’ve been damaged, the seedling will die.

Plant the seedlings in the pot by using your finger to make a hole. Then press the soil firmly around the seedling, so the roots have good contact with the soil.

He notes that at this point, the new seedlings will need to grow roots to reach the water, which happens surprisingly quickly.

Immediately after planting, you will need to water them from above and if they look a little wilted until those first few roots make it down to where the water is.

Our master grower also notes that watering once the plants have established roots is as easy as topping up the saucer mentioned earlier. This leads to another important factor.

Water From Below & Allow the Plants to Sit in the Water

The next important step in the process, he says, is to allow the containers to sit in large water-filled saucers so that the plants can access it from below. This forces the plants to send their roots down deep to get water, much like when grown directly in the ground.

I know houseplant owners everywhere are “screeing” at this mental image.

Generally speaking, allowing any potted plant to sit in water is a big no-no. But in this case, it makes perfect sense because of how much water the plants use.

He gave us a few key notes about watering the basil plants this way.

• Starting your seedlings in extra large pots and watering them from below forces the plants to send down deep roots.
• He only waters from above if the seedlings look a little wilted or, later in the season, if the top inch of soil becomes crunchy and dried out.
• Let the plants use up all the water in the saucer before adding more. This keeps the water from growing stagnant. This practice also prevents root rot when the plants are still very small, and their root system is still developing.
• He noted that during the height of the growing season, in August through September, the plants would often go through roughly 1.5 gallons (6 liters) of water on cool days and close to 3 gallons (12 liters) of water on hot days.

You know all those reminders you get to water plants in containers more often when it’s hot out? This is why. It’s also why it makes sense to leave the basil sitting directly in water all the time.

Fertilizing Regularly is an Important Factor

Our grower opted to use a fertilizer meant for tomatoes on his basil. This makes perfect sense, as most tomato fertilizers are heavy in nitrogen, a key nutrient needed for leafy growth. Unfortunately, his chosen fertilizer, Levington Tomorite, isn’t readily available here in the states. However, the NPK ratio for Tomorite is 4-3-8, similar to Espoma’s Tomato-Tone formula. If you want a liquid fertilizer, as he used, try Fox Farm’s Grow Big.

The Master Grower said he adds the fertilizer directly to the saucer.

At the beginning of the season, he said he only adds it once every few weeks. The plants won’t need a lot of fertilizer in the beginning as they’re drawing nutrients from the compost and aren’t large enough to require extra nutrients yet.

However, increasing the frequency with which you fertilize as the season progresses and the plant grows is important. Remember, we are keeping our closed system consistent, so as the plants grow larger, they will deplete the soil of nutrients quicker, needing more to sustain their growth. He notes that toward the end of the growing season, he fertilized the plants weekly.

Finally, the Importance of Pruning

Pruning is incredibly important when you want to encourage a plant to grow wider and bushier. If you’ve never pruned basil before, I’ll bet you didn’t even realize growing basil bushes was possible.

Our Basil Expert ascribes to the same method for pruning basil that we do.

Once the basil seedlings are well established, and the plant begins to put out lots of new growth, it’s time to start pruning. You will prune the basil throughout the entire season.

In the beginning, our grower said he pruned every two to three weeks to encourage the bushy growth attained by this pruning method. Later in the growing season, he pruned weekly to prevent the plant from flowering and going to seed.

A quick guide on how to prune basil

As basil is part of the mint family, it has a square stem. Look below the first group of leaves at the top; you should find four tiny new leaves growing at the corners of the square stem. Using clean scissors, snip the stem just above these new leaves.

In a few days, the cut will harden, and the plant will focus its energy on growing those four new leaves. We are taking one stem and turning it into four new stems. This is what leads to bushy basil plants.

Prune the basil plants frequently.

Our expert says he would check the plants often, and if he saw a stem that he could cut (with four new leaves starting), he would do it there and then. Make this process easy by keeping scissors to hand near the basil plants. To prevent disease, consider only using them on your basil and clean and sterilize them often.

Staking Your Basil

There’s a phrase I’ll bet you never thought you would read. However, if you use our expert’s method, you will eventually need to stake your basil as it grows. Basil stems can easily fall over and snap under their weight.

He uses plain twine and bamboo dowels to stake the basil. His wife was kind enough to model the process.

The dowel is placed at the back of the pot.

Then he encircles the lower portion to encourage it to grow upward, going around the dowel.

Another circle of twine is added every few inches as the basil grows taller.

There’s a lot of information here, which can feel overwhelming.

But I’ve been reviewing our grower’s notes repeatedly, and it seems that the secret to his annual success is that he has corrected all the ways we normally inhibit growth in containers. As I reread this case study, I found myself wondering what other plants would reach stratospheric growth under these conditions. Hmm…

Everyone at Rural Sprout would like to thank our superstar Basil Growing Master for his willingness to share his method with our readers and his photos which make the entire process much easier to envision.

Why not try growing your own monster basil? You might need some clever ways to use up all the leaves that goes beyond pesto.

Read Next:

15 Unusual Ways To Use Basil Leaves That Goes Beyond Pesto

The post From Supermarket Seedling To A 6ft Basil Bush – A Basil Growing Genius Reveals His Secrets appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Growing herbs can be a rewarding experience in the garden and the kitchen. If you’re used to dried herbs from the supermarket, you may be surprised the first time you crush a freshly picked sage leaf between your fingers. The fragrant herb is far more powerfully scented than anything from a glass bottle.

Even if you don’t cook, there are plenty of great reasons to grow sage in your garden each year and many excellent uses for fresh sage.

But maintaining an herb garden can have its setbacks too. Perhaps you’re tired of spindly sage plants?

You’ve probably followed our sage growing guide and have watering all figured out. You’ve remembered to fertilize with a good nitrogen fertilizer. And your little sun-loving plant gets plenty of rays, but in the end, you still end up with leggy sage plants that flop over once they get too tall.

If you’re hoping for bushy sage plants that will produce tons of fragrant leaves, then it’s important to prune them as well.

So often, gardeners shy away from pruning because they find the process intimidating or think they will kill their plants. Rest assured, it’s not a quick job that’s easy to learn to do. Our quick guide will put you at ease, and before you know it, you’ll be a sage-pruning pro with massive sage plants in your garden.

Why You Need to Prune Sage

If you’re reading this, you probably already know that left to its own devices, sage is prone to being leggy, especially if it’s not getting enough sun. But if you want a plant that grows fuller rather than taller, you have to tell it to grow that way.

And how you do that is with a pair of clean, sterilized scissors.

When we prune, it sends a message to the plant – put more energy into new growth. Where we prune a plant also sends a message. For instance, deadheading the tops off of a petunia causes it to put more energy into making new flowers. With sage, we prune a little lower to encourage more lateral growth, which gives us those beautiful, full plants that look great in the garden or a container on our kitchen counter.

When to Prune Sage

The best time to prune sage is in the spring after the weather has warmed up. This gives the plant plenty of time to create new growth and form a wider, bushier shape. Any new cuts will have toughened up when cooler weather returns, making them more likely to survive the winter.

Flowering Sage

Maybe you aren’t growing sage to cook with; perhaps you love its beautiful tiny flowers. If that’s the case, you’ll want to hold off on that spring pruning. Wait until after the flowers have begun to die back before pruning your sage. This way, you get to enjoy the blooms while still creating larger plants each season.

You never want to prune sage in the fall or winter. The tender new growth that will appear shortly after can’t withstand the cold and will die back. You could even possibly lose the entire plant.  

How to Prune Sage

As always, don’t forget to sanitize your tools before you prune a plant. For sage pruning, a pair of small scissors is all you need.

We want to encourage the plant to put out more growth at the bottom, resulting in a bushier plant as the season progresses. To achieve this, we will trim off the top third of each stem growing from the crown.

When you’ve got a relatively small plant, to begin with, this may seem like you’re taking a lot off, but within a week or two, you’ll have abundant new growth.

You’ll notice that the leaves grow in twos, one on each side, then there is a length of stem before another pair of leaves. The sage continues to grow this way, with more leaves and stem continuously emerging, fountain-like, from within the center of the plant.

To prune sage, make your cuts just above two leaves, about a third of the way down.

By trimming that central stem and leaves off, the plant is forced to put out new growth at the crotch where the leaves meet the stem. Where you once had one fountain growing more leaves, you will now have two.

Continue trimming the tops off each main stem growing out of the plant’s crown.

Don’t ditch those tops. You can use those tiny leaves. Save them and dry them or use them right away.

Maintenance After Pruning

Give the plant a thorough watering after you’re done pruning. Don’t forget; sage doesn’t like wet feet, so if you’re growing it in a pot with a saucer, be sure to tip out any extra water.

If you haven’t fertilized the plant yet, doing so after pruning will assist the plant in recovering as well as help to ensure bushy new growth.

Within a week or so, you’ll begin to see new growth at the base of the leaves.

You can trim back these new stems during mid-summer as well if you want to encourage even more lateral growth. Just be sure your plant will have plenty of time to recover and for this second batch of new growth to harden up for the winter. You can also bring your plant indoors or cover it to protect new growth.

Sage is a wonderful addition to any culinary garden, and with annual pruning, this perennial herb will continue to spread and grow each year.

Read Next:

How To Prune Basil For Huge Plants

The post How to Prune Sage for Big, Bushy Plants – A Quick Guide appeared first on Rural Sprout.

While there are entire books dedicated to drying herbs at home, you’ll find all you need to know right here.

At the same time, we’ll also walk you through a step-by-step tutorial on making a DIY herb drying screen out of branches and a tea towel. It’s a cheap way to use materials that you already have (without the use of a dehydrator).

By all means, put that dehydrator to good use if you have one, but save it for other valuable foodstuffs, such as fruit leather and dried tomatoes. Herbs don’t need so much fussing over.

You can make it more difficult if you like, but drying herbs at home is really very simple.

All it takes is a bunch of herbs and a length of string.

But where are you going to hang those herbs if you have a small space, or are harvesting a few sprigs here and there?

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: go vertical!

What if you could make a simple herb drying rack that could be hung on the wall? Perhaps it could hang in the kitchen or the dining room as a temporary art.

You could even hang it outside in a sheltered place out of direct sunlight.

If you wanted to dry flowers (don’t we all) – you could lay the screen down on a table and let the petals dry in peace.

I know, the first thing you think of when imagining an herb drying screen is, well, a metal screen. Not unlike what you use on your windows to keep the mosquitos out. It’s all fine and dandy to allow a lot of airflow to circulate around your herbs, but think about materials for just a second. Unless that screen is a food-grade fine stainless steel, it’s an inferior choice. And if you are trying to avoid plastic, then choosing a plastic screen is also out the window.

So, here we come to the most cost-effective option that also provides excellent results: branches, string and a tea towel.

As I said, the act of drying herbs is very simple. Knowing when they are completely dry, however, is something that comes with practice. In the end, what you are looking for are moisture-free flowers, stems, roots or leaves that can be put away safely for long-term storage. Reusing glass jars is my favorite way to store them.

Let’s get you started on making your own herb drying screen.

Materials and Tools For Making An Herb Drying Screen

It’s true, this easy herb drying screen will cost you next to nothing.

Collect the following tools and materials to quickly get started:

• fresh or dry branches
• hand saw and pruners
• tea towels (new or gently used)
• strong string for tying the frame
• scissors
• needle and thick thread
• measuring tape

Finding Materials For The Frame

Freshly cut branches make the best frame material, just be aware that they will shrink with time, so the lashing may need to be retied at a later date.

In this project, we’ve chosen to go with hazel branches since they are abundant where we live. Oftentimes, they also happen to be straight. Curved branches work just as well. Use what you can find, even arched branches, and it will turn out that much more artistic.

You can also make a low-cost herb drying screen by taking the glass out of an unused picture frame. The empty rectangle can easily be covered by a tea towel or undyed cloth.

Cutting branches to make the herb drying screen frame.

The size of your herb drying screen will depend on what you find in nature, or opt for in a picture frame.

Choosing two tall branches of hazel, we noticed that the bottom had a larger circumference. Cutting the larger part off, we divided that in half, to provide for the length of the frame.

The smaller part of the branch went towards the width of the frame.

Don’t be so focused on numbers, here they aren’t important. However, in case you were wanting more specifics, the final dimensions of the two screens we made at once, were 26.5″ x 19″ (68 x 48 cm).

Now, let’s bring back some scouting knots!

If you don’t remember how to make a clove hitch or a lashing knot, no worries. And if you weren’t ever a scout, you’re about to learn something new and useful. Knowing these knots come in handy anytime you are working with string or rope around the home, homestead or small farm.

Position your branches on the ground or table where you are working.

Choose a corner to start with and make a clove hitch to attach a longer length of string.

I used 55″ (140 cm) lengths of a multi-ply cotton string on each corner of the frame to attach with a lashing knot.

Make sure to wrap the string as tightly as possible, knowing that green branches will shrink as they dry.

Bind all four corners together, then flip the frame over to sew the tea towel on.

Attaching the tea towel to your herb drying screen.

Sewing is one of those homestead skills that is absolutely essential. From mending socks to sewing up rips in work clothes, it’s a way to extend the life of things you own. It’s immensely useful for creating and making.

Without giving sewing advice here, simply follow the basics using the skills that you already have.

Start by attaching all four corners of your tea towel to the frame. Our towels seemed to fit by chance, luck or good intuition.

A quick note: you don’t have to use new tea towels.

Though whatever material or scrap fabric you use should be clean, preferably undyed and non-shedding. The purer it is, the better off you will be. Since the food/herbs/flowers you eat will be directly touching the fabric, make it as natural as possible.

How to secure the tea towel.

Thread your needle with a very long piece of thick thread and begin at one corner. Secure it with a knot and bring your needle to the opposite side of the frame, making a “V” pattern as you sew. This will help the rack not to sag under the weight of drying herbs.

When this is complete, you are essentially done. All that’s left to do, is to tie a hanger on if you wish to hang your herb drying screen in the kitchen, or in a protected, outside space.

As mentioned above, when you are able to hang your herb drying screen, it provides you with an alternative space to dry your herbs. It works just as well in an apartment as it does on a farm.

You can even dry the herbs you grow on your own windowsill. No matter if your garden is big or small, you’ll always need a place to dry herbs.

Once your screen is ready, head back outside to collect those herbs and wild plants. Dandelion greens included.

If you are drying them vertically, go ahead and tie several small bunches, attaching them to the towel with a safety pin.

Drying Flowers On An Herb Drying Screen

Over the years, I’ve found there is an art to drying flowers – don’t overcrowd them.

If you allow blossoms to overlap too much on the drying board, the petals will often stick together, leaving pockets of moisture that are hard to get rid of.

When drying flower heads and petals, be sure to spread them out as much as possible. For this, the screen must be horizontal and in a safe, air draft-free place. Be sure to flip or turn your flowers every day, to achieve maximum dryness.

What flowers and herbs will you be drying this summer that could use a screen?

Nasturtiums, chive blossoms, plantain leaves, nettle, mint?

You name it, you can dry it. Try using an herb drying screen this summer as you harvest more than ever before.

The post The Easiest DIY Herb & Flower Drying Screen Anyone Can Make appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Sage has always been a popular herb in the kitchen. Its unmistakable scent signals there is delicious stuffing or sausage cooking somewhere. But this beautiful silvery-green plant often leaves gardeners struggling to grow it successfully. We end up with stunted plants or plants that wilt and die, and we give up, yank them out and vow we’ll get it right next year.

Let’s make this year (and every year thereafter) that year.

One of the first things I recommend when learning how to care for (and get the most out of) a new plant is to learn about its native habitat. Knowing where a plant grows naturally, without anyone fussing over it, offers vital clues as to what it will need in your backyard.

Salvia officinalis, or common sage, is native to the Mediterranean, where it grows like a weed. Its native climate boasts exceptionally long, hot and dry summers and mild, wet winters with no snow. And the Mediterranean boasts some of the most fertile soils in the world; rich and loamy.  

With this information, we’re well on our way to better understanding the basic needs of a sage plant. Let’s flesh this out and make sure you have everything you need to grow large, healthy sage year after year.

Sage is a perennial; however, depending on where you live, it may grow as an annual. USDA Hardiness zones 5-8 can grow sage as a perennial. Zones 9-11 will most likely grow it as an annual, as it gets too hot for sage in these regions. Likewise, the winters get too cold in zones 4-1 for the plant to survive, so here too, sage is grown annually.

Most sages have beautiful foliage, from a striking gray-green to an almost silver. Their leaves are covered with a fine, downy fuzz, and most varieties will flower too. Sage flowers are long stalks of purple or blue blooms that are a favorite among pollinators.

Of course, flowering usually happens when a plant goes to seed. So, you may or may not wish to let your sage plant flower if you’re using the leaves medicinally or in the kitchen.

Varieties of Sage

Sage comes in several varieties, some grown more for ornamental flowers, others for their foliage and flavor.

Broad Leaf Sage – The sage we all know and love. This is the one you have in your kitchen cupboard. But wait until you experience it from your garden.

Extrakta – This beautiful variety has an exceptionally high level of oils in the leaves, making it perfect for cooking or use in aromatherapy.

Sirius Blue Sage – This is one sage you will want to let flower for its gorgeous deep-blue blooms. You’ll attract all kinds of winged wildlife to your garden.

Golden Sage – A similar flavor and leaf shape to broad leaf sage, but with beautiful golden variegated leaves.

Growing Sage from Seed

Growing sage from seed is an exercise in faith and patience. Sage seeds take a ridiculously long time to germinate – between a month to a month and a half. Add to that their low germination rate, and you may be ready to give up before you start. However, I have a few tips for you to ensure you end up with sage seedlings.

Many seeds need to undergo cold stratification before they germinate. Basically, they need to sit tight through the winter. After this period of cold, the seeds are more likely to germinate. Sage benefits from cold stratification, and it’s easy enough to do in your home.

Several weeks before you plant your seeds, place them in the refrigerator. Leave them in the seed packet, and put the seed packet in an airtight jar, so it doesn’t get damp. When ready to plant your sage, let the seed packet come up to room temperature first. This short “winter” will give you better germination results.

Use a good soilless seed-starting mix to plant your sage seeds, such as this easy-to-make mix. Dampen the mix before you plant the seeds. It should be moist, not soaking wet. Press the sage seeds into the surface of the seed-starting mix. Always plant a few more than what you need. Sprinkle a light dusting of soil over the top of the seeds and then mist them well with water.

Sage requires light to germinate, so place your newly planted seeds in a bright southern-facing window or under a grow light. To make sure the seed-starting mix stays moist, you may want to cover the container with a bit of cellophane or a clear plastic bag. Remember, you want moist, not soaking wet.

And now we wait.

It’s always best to wait longer than the prescribed 4-6 weeks before giving up on germination. Right when you’re sure nothing will grow is when you will usually see tiny sprouts poking up out of the dirt.

Once your sage has germinated, remove the plastic covering and check them frequently to ensure they stay moist. It only takes one missed watering for them to die. You can also begin to fertilize the new seedlings with a liquid, all-purpose fertilizer at quarter strength.

Remember seedlings need a lot of bright light, much more than you would expect, to prevent them from getting leggy. However, if you end up with leggy seedlings, it’s not the end of the world and can be corrected.

Once all danger of frost has passed, you can transplant your seedlings outside after hardening them off. Set your new sage babies up for success by following our transplant guidelines.

Propagating Sage with Cuttings

If starting sage from seed feels a bit overwhelming, you can easily propagate sage in either water or soil with a cutting.

Snip a 4”-6” long cutting from a healthy, well-established sage plant. Remove all the leaves that will be below the water or soil and put the cutting in a jar of water or at least 2” deep into a damp seed-starting mix. You may or may not want to dip the cutting in a rooting hormone first to help stimulate new root growth.

It will take several weeks to see roots grow, but eventually, they will start growing. For cuttings started in soil, you can usually tell that the plant has taken root when it begins to put out new growth. I have a complete guide on propagating herb cuttings that is helpful if this is your preferred method for starting sage.

Growing Sage Outdoors

Sage deserves a spot in every culinary herb garden and even tucked in among the vegetable patch. It also does perfectly well in containers, so don’t forget to put one out on your patio. Next, we’ll cover everything your sage needs to flourish once planted.

Soil

Give sage a well-draining, loamy soil, and you will have a happy plant. If your soil has a lot of clay, you will need to add sand and coconut coir to improve the drainage or consider growing sage in a container instead.

Sun

Like most things hailing from the Mediterranean, sage is a sun worshipper. This tough little plant likes it warm and dry. Plant sage where it will receive full sun. If you live in an exceptionally hot and dry climate, USDA Hardiness Zones 9 and above, you can plant sage where it will receive a little bit of shade.

If you live where summers get muggy and hot, it’s even more important to plant your sage where it will receive full sun, to prevent moisture issues that can damage the leaves.

Water

Sage is a woody-stemmed herb, and like all woody-stemmed herbs, it does not like having wet feet. For new transplants and seedlings, you’ll want to water them every couple of weeks until they develop a sturdy root network. (Mycorrhizae can help, we’ll get to that later.)

Always let your sage plant dry out between waterings. Beyond that, it’s best to water sage deeply and sparingly. One of the easiest and quickest ways to kill a sage plant is to overwater it. If you’re going to grow sage in a container, it must have drainage holes, and you should always pour out any collected water in the saucer under the pot.

Nutrients

A good fertilizing routine is paramount to a healthy plant, no matter what you grow. When transplanting your seedlings to the garden or into their permanent container, add some compost or earthworm castings to get your plant off to a great start. Now would also be a good time to add some blood meal to the soil for an added nitrogen boost.

I always recommend inoculating new transplants with a quality mycorrhiza as well. These beneficial fungi adhere to the plant’s roots allowing for greater water and nutrient absorption. Check out all of the incredible benefits of using mycorrhizae in the garden. (Since I’ve started using it, you won’t find me growing without them, be it houseplants or in the garden!)

Sage is a leafy plant, so choose a good organic liquid fertilizer with high nitrogen content. Fertilize every couple of weeks, or at least once a month. If you have a flowering variety and grow it more for the blooms, you’ll want to pick a fertilizer with higher potassium content.

If you’re growing sage in a container, it will need to be fertilized more often as the nutrients will wash out of the bottom a little at a time every time you water it.

Companion Planting

Sage loves its fellow Mediterranean herbs, rosemary and lavender. It does well with carrots too. You can plant sage among brassicas like cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower to deter cabbage moths and flea beetles. But it’s best to avoid planting sage near your alliums – onions, shallots, leeks and garlic.

Common Sage Pests & Diseases

After all of your hard work, there’s nothing worse than finding a plant under stress from a pest infestation or disease. In general, a healthy plant is more resistant to attacks from pests and diseases. Sage is a relatively hardy plant, but if you do run into problems, it’s usually with one of these pests or diseases.

Mealybugs

These fluffy white bugs love their woody-stemmed plants, making sage a favorite target. You can identify them by the bright-white fluffy eggs on the undersides of the leaves. The easiest way to deal with them is to spray them off with a garden hose, or if your plant is indoors, wipe the undersides off the leaves with a damp cloth.

You can also use organic insecticidal soap, but this can get messy with the soft fuzz on sage leaves. Once the infestation has been dealt with, spray or wipe the residue off of the leaves.

Slugs

These guys are pretty easy to identify. They sure can make a mess of your sage, though, chewing holes in the leaves and leaving slimy trails everywhere. You can pick them off, but if you want a better way to make sure they don’t come back, I highly suggest reading Lindsay’s piece on dealing with slugs.

Aphids

Less common than mealybugs, aphids will sometimes attack sage. You can deal with them in the same manner as you would like mealybugs. Aphids can be a real pain and spread to other plants easily.

Root Rot

Sage is naturally drought-resistant, and it doesn’t like wet roots. It’s no wonder that the most common disease to afflict sage is root rot. Overwatering invites this fungal disease to attack the roots. If it’s not diagnosed and treated quickly, it nearly always leads to the loss of the plant. I’ve detailed how to treat root rot here for you.

Mint Rust

As sage is in the mint family (isn’t everybody?), it can contract mint rust. Orangey-brown spots will appear on the undersides of the plant, causing the leaves to fall off. As leaves are the part of sage we want, this fungal infection can be devastating. It spreads among plants in the mint family, so if you see it on one plant, be sure to quarantine it and check your other mints.

The easiest way to control mint rust is to remove the infected parts of the plant. You can also kill the fungus that causes it by unearthing the plant and dipping the exposed roots into 110-degree F water for fifteen minutes. Let the roots cool and dry off before planting the sage back in the ground. If the infection is too far gone, it’s best to destroy the plant to prevent it from spreading.

Pruning Sage for Doubled Growth

I’m going to tell you a little secret. You can prune sage so it puts out new growth, doubling it in size and making it bushier.

And you do it by pruning it in the same manner you would prune basil. If you don’t already know how to prune basil, Meredith has this super easy guide with step-by-step photos. Because both basil and sage’s growth patterns are identical, they respond to this pruning method in the same way – by getting huge.

Growing Sage Indoors

When growing sage indoors, you’ll need to make sure that you’re fertilizing more frequently as the soil will become depleted of nutrients quicker than it would outside.

Sage loves bright, full sun, so be sure to grow your sage where it will get at least 6-8 hours of sun or supplement it with an LED full-spectrum grow light.

The nice thing about growing sage indoors rather than out in the garden is that you have more control over its environment to mimic those Mediterranean temperatures and conditions.

Now that you’re armed with everything you need to know to grow large, bushy sage plants, get ready for the most amazing Thanksgiving stuffing this year and the most fragrant homemade smudge sticks. But why stop there when sage is such a versatile herb, with so many different ways to use it.

The post How to Grow Massive Sage Plants From Seed or Cuttings appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Basil is an annual herb well known for the role it plays in the Italian dish pesto and for use in the cuisines of countries like Thailand, Indonesia and Vietnam.

There are over 60 varieties of basil, with some sporting red or purple leaves, but still the most popular for culinary purposes is the green-leaved sweet basil.

Other basils (including perennial varieties) have different flavored leaves some are even named for the taste they impart – like cinnamon basil, lemon basil and even spicy bush basil.

Unfortunately, the leaves – the most useful part of a basil plant – are often the part of the plant that will be attacked with problems. Whether your plants are leggy or your leaves translucent, we’ve got all the potential basil problems and their solutions covered.

1. Leggy Plants

Too Much Fertilizer

Basils grown outdoors can use an extra dose of fertilizer every so often to keep plants healthy and producing leaves. Depending on the type of fertilizer you choose, this is generally applied once per month or more often during the growing season.

Feeding basil often may create bigger, faster-growing plants. But, they can also grow too fast, becoming leggy with low-quality leaves. The oils in the leaves that give the plants their distinctive flavor will also be reduced with too much fertilizer, resulting in unappetizing leaves.

Always fertilize according to packaging instructions and never apply more than is recommended.

A Drop In Temperature

Variations in temperature can also affect basil plants and inhibit their growth. They are particularly sensitive to dips in temperature, preferring a warmer climate. Make sure to only plant them once the chance of frost has passed to avoid leggy growth after a cold snap. Leave growing to a bit later in spring towards summer or grow in containers that can be moved indoors in cooler overnight temperatures.

Not Enough Sunlight

Basil likes a lot of sunlight – at least 6-8 hours a day of full sun. If the light is not sufficient – often a problem with basil grown indoors – they will become leggy to look for the light. Prune and move to a brighter area and the new growth should return to normal.

Incorrect Watering Or Lack Of Drainage

Watering basil is a tricky business. They need incredibly well-draining soil,  but they also like the soil to be kept moist. This means watering regularly while avoiding the risks of waterlogging. Overwatering will cause the stems to rot, but underwatering will produce leggy stems and a lack of leaves. Also, it’s best to water the soil and not the leaves to prevent fungal disease and stunted growth.

Water deeply as soon as the top of the soil begins to appear dry and never let the soil dry out completely. Mulching your basil plant will help to lock in moisture.

Lack Of Regular Pruning Or Harvesting

One of the most important things to remember to avoid leggy plants is to regularly harvest the leaves. In order for them to grow into bushy, leafy plants, they need to be trimmed often.

By pruning the top of the plants, more light can access the stems and leaves in the center of the plant, increasing their vigor. Pruning also stops the basil from flowering. Once this occurs the leaves turn bitter, so it’s important to prevent flowering for as long as possible.

Luckily, we have the absolute best step-by-step basil pruning guide which will ensure huge basil plants.

2. Yellow Leaves

Lack Of Nutrients

The first step to tackling this problem is the lack of proper nutrients. For basil a balanced fertilizer is optimal, but when it comes to yellowing leaves, the problem is usually caused by a lack of nitrogen. Add a good dose of compost or well-decomposed manure or try a high nitrogen dose of fertilizer. If the problem is not fixed, your yellow leaves may be caused by watering issues.

Watering

Yellow leaves are usually caused by underwatering or overwatering. Due to their love of moisture, underwatering is typically more common, but yellow leaves combined with soggy stems indicate overwatering is the cause. Make sure the soil has good drainage and is moist but not waterlogged. Overwatering could cause root rot, leading to yellowing leaves and the ultimate demise of the plant if the problem is not rectified.

Fungal Infections

Soil-borne fungal diseases attach to the root systems of basil and cause root rot, leaving the basil leaves yellow. Dig up the plant to inspect the roots. If they are brown or slimy your basil has root rot and it’s best to throw out the plant and start over.

The fungal disease downy mildew can cause the same problem. Small, yellow angular spots appear on the upper leaves and greyish mildew usually forms on the underside. The leaves turn yellow and then brown as they curl and wilt. Cut off any infected leaves and treat what remains with an organic fungicide that includes copper.

Nematodes

These small pests are found at the base of the plant and in the roots and will cause the leaves to yellow. They can also produce galls on the stems. It is not easy to get rid of the pests and the only option may be to start again with varieties that are nematode-resistant.

3. Black and Brown Spots

Frost

Even a small bit of frost can negatively affect basil. It’s a very sensitive plant and especially vulnerable to dips in temperature. Frost can cause the leaf tips and the tops of the plant to blacken and die.

Plant basil later in the summer season so that the chance of frost is greatly reduced. You can also grow in containers so the pots can be moved indoors when there is a chance of frost.

If they are in a garden bed, cover them with frost protection fabric or bell jars if there are any reports of frost to come. If the plant is damaged, cut off all the infected leaves once the cold passes and give it a boost of fertilizer to get the leaves growing again.

Fungal Infection

Black spots from fungal infections usually appear on the underside of the leaves. They are often difficult to identify and could be anything from downy mildew to bacterial blight.

Keep plants well pruned to improve air circulation and make sure they get enough sunlight. Water in the mornings rather than the evenings and only at the base of the plant. As a last resort, use a fungicide that will kill off any diseases.

Inadequate Nutrients

Brown spots on basil leaves are more often than not from a case of either too much nitrogen or too little. Use organic compost to balance out the nutrients and restore the soil to good health. If you think there may be too much fertilizer in nitrogen form (perhaps from a recent fertilizer application), flush the soil with water and hold off on fertilizing for a while.

4. Transparent Spots Or Translucent Leaves

Pests

Some insects feed on the leaves by sucking out the chlorophyll, causing transparent spots on the leaves. These insects include spider mites, whiteflies and aphids. Once these sucking insects attack the leaves, the plant becomes stressed and the leaves may turn brown, start curling and fall off.

For spider mites, spray the underside of the leaves with a suitable miticide safe for veggie gardens. More than a single application is usually needed to control the pests.

Infestations of aphids and whitefly can be controlled by an organic insect spray. Alternatively, you can spray the plants with a solution of soapy water or insecticidal soap.

Temperature Fluctuations

Cold drafts are deadly for basil plants. As basil is a tropical plant, any cold snap will stress the plant, and this stress may result in translucent spots on the leaves.  For outdoor plants, make sure to cover with frost protection fabric in colder weather. For indoor plants, move out of cold drafts and into a sunnier spot. If this is still a problem, invest in grow lights.

Overwatering

Translucent stems and leaves can also be the result of overwatering. The plant becomes soft and stems and roots start to rot. The roots of the plant will not get enough oxygen to function and they will start suffocating, resulting in dry papery leaves.

Reduce your watering schedule and allow the plant to dry out a bit before watering again. Check that the drainage is sufficient and that, in containers, the water is draining out of the drainage holes. Prune off any damaged leaves and growth should return to normal.

Fungal Infections

Some fungal and bacterial infections could cause the leaves of basil to turn transparent or translucent. Leaf Spot, for example, causes small translucent spots to form on the leaves. These grow bigger and form dark edges. The leaves can turn, brown, black and yellow. Downy mildew can also result in transparent leaves.

Often the cause is high humidity and this is easy enough to regulate by pruning the plants regularly and giving them better ventilation indoors. Also, ensure water does not splash on the leaves when watering, inviting infections to start. Cut off all the infected leaves and if serious, treat with an organic fungicide.

Nutrient Deficiencies

The lack of some nutrients may cause transparent leaves. Nitrogen is essential for healthy green leaves and a lack of it may cause the lower leaves to become transparent while the newer leaves use up the nitrogen resources. Add a few doses of nitrogen-rich fertilizer and additional organic compost to rectify the problem.

In colder climates, basil may suffer from a lack of iron. A deficiency of iron, even though it is a micronutrient, causes stress and can result in the leaves turning transparent and pale in color. To fix the problem it’s best to conduct a pH test on the soil. The soil pH should be above 6.0. Any less and an all-purpose fertilizer, elemental sulfur, or chelated iron will be necessary to increase the acidity in the soil and balance out the nutrients.

5. Curling Leaves

Lack Of Light

Inadequate sunlight (less than 4-5 hours of full sun) will cause leaves to curl or turn yellow and eventually drop off. Check on the amount of light and move containers if necessary. Indoors, if the plants are not getting enough light, it may be better to place them under grow lights.

Lack Of Water

Curling leaves could also be a result of dry soil. Make sure to regularly water basil plants during the growing season to avoid the leaves curling.

Sucking Insects

Pests like aphids, spider mites and even scale that damage the leaves by sucking the chlorophyll out of the leaves could also cause stress and make the leaves curl. Spray with neem oil or use an insecticidal soap over several applications to completely remove the pests.

6. Wilting Leaves

Pests

Some basil pests quite literally suck the life out of the leaves, causing them to wilt. Check for pests like spider mites, aphids and whiteflies and treat the plant immediately to get rid of them.

Fusarium Wilt

This is a fungal disease that wilts the leaves and can turn them yellow. The stems also become infected, stunting growth. The leaves may even drop off and the plant will eventually die. The bottom leaves will show symptoms first, usually on one side of the plant. Plants will need to be removed and destroyed as there is, unfortunately, nothing that can be done.

Leaf Spot

Spots on the leaves, true to the name, often indicate the infection, Leaf Spot. Once these spots appear, the leaves will start to wilt, becoming more severe over time. Cut off any infected parts of the plant and discard them. Remember not to throw them on the compost heap to avoid spreading the problem.

Root Rot

Mainly caused by overwatering or improper drainage, root rot causes a host of problems for your basil. Unable to draw up more water or nutrients due to the damaged root system, the leaves will start to wilt and the stems will become mushy. To control the spread of this disease, it’s best to replant or repot the plants, cutting off any damaged roots and planting them in fresh soil.

Read Next:

15 Ways To Use Basil Leaves For When You’ve Had Enough Pesto

The post 6 Common Basil Growing Problems & How To Fix Them appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Hydroponics often bring to mind complex setups in someone’s basement with fancy grow lights and rows of unnaturally perfect lettuce peeking up out of plastic tubes.

A quick look on the internet, and you’ll be convinced you need to spend hundreds of dollars on equipment and large jugs of nutrients with names like GrowFloPro and Green Juice Power.

You aren’t sure if you’re buying something to feed plants or the latest health smoothie.

Once you get past the sticker shock, you’re faced with learning all the terminology, the science and how each system works. It can get pretty intimidating fast, leaving you feeling like you need a Ph.D. to undertake even the most basic hydroponic setup.

That’s where Dr. Bernard Kratky comes in.

Back in the 90s (my favorite decade), Dr. Bernard Kratky, a research scientist at the University of Hawaii, developed a hydroponic growing method that didn’t need any fancy equipment. His hydroponic method doesn’t even require electricity. (Wikipedia)

He published a summary of how it works in 2009 in Acta Horticulturae. You can read it by clicking here. (It’s only eight pages long, and I highly recommend giving it a quick read.)

The best thing about the Kratky method of hydroponic growing is that once you set your plants up, you don’t have to do another thing until they’re ready to harvest.

Yup, you read that right – no weeding, no watering, no fertilizing. This truly is gardening on auto-pilot. So, let’s dive in, and I’ll show you how to grow herbs with the Kratky method.

The Absolute Basics of the Kratky Method

In a nutshell, hydroponics is growing plants with water instead of soil. The plants receive everything they need – oxygen, water and nutrients from the hydroponic setup you use. Most setups require continuous movement of the water, a bubbler to add oxygen and periodically adding nutrients to the water to feed the plant. As I said, it gets complicated fast.

With the Kratky method, everything is passive.

Once you set up your container, the plant takes care of itself while growing. You add a specific amount of water and nutrients to your mason jar at the start.

Then you place a net cup (a cute little basket that allows roots to grow out the sides and bottom) containing growing media and your seeds or cuttings in the top of the jar, so the net cup touches the nutrient-filled water.

As the plant grows and takes up water, it puts out lots of roots in the jar. Seriously, I mean a lot of roots.

The water level drops as the plant uses the nutrient solution. The roots closer to the top of the container growing in the air gap between the top of the jar and nutrient solution serve as aerial roots, providing the plant with oxygen. The roots still growing in the nutrient solution continue to provide the plant food.

And that’s pretty much it.

The plant grows without any maintenance from you. You just happily snip fresh herbs and enjoy the laziest gardening experience ever.

Now the drawback to this method is that because you’re growing a plant with a predetermined amount of nutrients and water, the plant will eventually die.

But Tracey, why can’t I just mix up more nutrient solution and pour it into the jar?  

Excellent question!

Remember those roots growing in the gap between the water and the top of the jar? Adding more nutrient solution to your jar will cover them up and essentially “drown” your plant. Those roots have adapted to exchange oxygen, not water. Weird but cool.

The Important Stuff

Nutrients

The nutrients you add to the water at setup will feed your plant for its entire lifespan, so it’s important to get them right. Since we’re only growing herbs in quart jars, which do really well with the Kratky method, it’s not terribly complicated.

While there are a bunch of different grow solutions on the market, it’s best to stick with the standard recommended nutrients when you’re just starting out. They’re easy to find and measure the correct ratios when making your nutrient solution.

You can experiment once you’ve got a few successful grows under your belt.

You will need Masterblend 4-18-38, a fertilizer made just for hydroponics, PowerGro calcium nitrate, as well as Epsom salt, which provides the plants with magnesium and sulfur. These nutrients provide the plants with everything they need for proper foliar development and growth.

I highly recommend picking up this nutrient starter pack. There are enough nutrients here to last you through quite a few mixes, which should give you enough time to decide if the Kratky method is right for you.

Water

If you dabble in hydroponics, you’ll learn quickly that water pH is incredibly important. However, for growing something as simple as herbs with the Kratky method, it’s less so. You’ll still get good results with tap water, rainwater or even bottled spring water.

If you have chlorinated tap water, you’ll want to use rain or bottled water.

Light

You’ll need a bright south-facing window or a small, inexpensive grow light for the best results. We’re already tricking Mother Nature by growing in water rather than soil, so you can’t afford to skimp on the light. A small compact fluorescent bulb will work but LED grow lights are very affordable these days.

What Herbs Work Best with the Kratky Method

You want to choose soft-stemmed herbs, as they’re usually quick-growing. Avoid herbs with a woody stem since you’re working with a limited amount of water, air and nutrients. These herbs take much longer to grow and won’t have enough nutrients to do well.

I’m not saying you can’t grow things like thyme or rosemary with this method, only that you’ll have better success with plants that don’t need a lot of time to get established and grow to maturity. If you’re going to grow woody-stemmed herbs it’s best to do so with cuttings.

With that in mind, some great options to grow are:

• Basil
• Dill (Choose a compact variety, such as Compatto.)
• Lemon Balm
• Mint
• Cilantro
• Parsley
• Tarragon
• Chives

Okay, let’s do this!

Materials

Everything you need to get started:

• Herb seeds or cuttings
• Masterblend 4-18-38
• PowerGro Calcium Nitrate
• Epsom Salt
• 1-quart wide-mouth mason jar, one per plant
• 3” net cups
• Growing media such as rockwool cubes or clean sawdust

• 1 quart of water
• Aluminum foil

Let’s Grow Some Herbs

Mix Your Solution

The easiest way to mix your solution is by the gallon. I suggest grabbing a gallon of spring water from the supermarket and mixing your nutrients directly in the jug to start. Then you’ll have them ready whenever you want to start another jar.

We’ll be mixing the Masterblend, PowerGro and Epsom salt in a 2:2:1 ratio. To your water, add one rounded teaspoon of Masterblend, one rounded teaspoon of PowerGro and a rounded ½ teaspoon of Epsom salt. Mix the nutrients into the water until they’re completely dissolved. It helps if you use room temperature water.  

Set Up Your Net Cup

Add a rockwool cube to your net cup, or fill it with sawdust. Use a clean chopstick and poke your seed (or seeds if you’re going to thin them out) down into the middle of your growing medium. If you’re using cuttings, slip them down into the middle of the net cup.

Next, pour some nutrient solution into the jar. You don’t want the net cup to be fully immersed. You only want the bottom 1/3 or ¼ of the net cup to be resting in the nutrient solution. It’s best to fill your jar about ¾ of the way before adding the net cup. Then you can adjust by adding more or dumping a little out.

The net cup will rest on the lip of the quart jar.

Finally, you’ll need to wrap the outside of the jar in aluminum foil. This keeps light out of the jar, preventing algae from growing in your nutrient solution. While algae aren’t necessarily harmful, they will eat up all the nutrients meant for your plant.

If you don’t like the look of the aluminum foil, consider getting some amber-colored jars or covering your jars with decorative tape or paint.

Let it Grow

And that’s it. Place your little hydroponic herb setup in a sunny location or under a grow light and wait. Before you know it, you’ll be snipping off fresh herbs whenever you want them.

Maybe you’ll get bit by the hydroponics bug and start looking into all the other cool things you can grow with the Kratky method. You can say goodbye to over-priced supermarket salad greens that wilt as soon as you get them home and say hello to fresh lettuce all year long.

Start New Plants with Cuttings

Once you’ve got an established plant, it’s easy to take cuttings and start a new jar. Remember, you’re working with a limited amount of water and nutrients, so starting a new cutting will ensure you have a continuous supply of each herb.

Not to mention, a trio of Kratky herb jars makes a cool and unusual gift for the foodie in your life.  

Take three or four cuttings, around 4” long and poke them in some new growing media. Set them up as described above when your first plants slow down. Your cuttings will be ready to pick up the slack.  

I know it sounds like a lot when you first read through this, but I think you’ll find it’s much easier to do rather than read about. Once you have your supplies ready, it only takes a few moments to set up a jar of basil, mint or chives.

The post Kratky Method: The “Set It & Forget It” Way To Grow Herbs In Water appeared first on Rural Sprout.