The end of gardening season can be a time for contemplation and indoor tasks. You may find yourself with more time to focus on the educational aspects of growing plants. This makes fall and winter the perfect time to take an online permaculture course.

What is Permaculture?

Permaculture—a combination of the words “permanent” and “agriculture” is a principled approach to growing plants. The aim is to create as many closed-loop systems as possible. Permaculture gardens support their own nutritional needs and benefit more species than the humans that planted them.

The idea is to create self-sustaining systems that leave the planet in slightly better health every year. In other words, you want your gardens to work with nature rather than against it.

Though the premise is simple, permaculture has many supporting principles and takes time and experience to master. That’s why many people pursue online permaculture courses as an opportunity to learn from experts at their own pace. You can also try some beginner-friendly projects to dip your toes in the water.

5 Questions Before Choosing the Best Online Permaculture Course for You

When deciding which is the best online permaculture design course, it’s best to start by asking yourself a few questions. These will help you determine what you are looking for so you can find the class that best suits your needs.

1. Do you want a certification?

Traditional permaculture design courses are 72 hours long and provide you with official certification at the end. This is valuable for anyone attempting to gain credibility within the industry or go into a permaculture business. Still, it may be overkill for someone who merely wants to improve their yard.

2. What’s your timeframe?

Some permaculture courses dive deep with lots of content quickly, while others are set up to offer you a short weekly lesson over a year. Decide whether you want to immerse yourself in permaculture content for a few weeks, or take in the information more slowly over time.

3. Which is better, learning theory or actionable steps?

Permaculture courses differ in their overall takeaways. Some focus on theory and the big picture, while others are built around DIY projects you can jump into at home. Decide what you want to prioritize, and things will go more smoothly.

4. What are your specific interests?

Many online permaculture courses niche themselves. Some are focused on making an urban backyard more environmentally friendly, while others will help serious organic farmers increase their yields.

Many instructors put their own spin on the material by focusing permaculture ethics in directions like social justice or personal wellness. You might find that a better fit for your interests.

5. Do you resonate with the instructor?

Everyone teaches slightly differently, and the wrong instructor can wreck your permaculture course experience. If a free intro video is available, consider watching it to see whether you resonate with the instructor. 

7 Top Online Permaculture Courses

Though there’s no discounting the benefits of hands-on experience, you can learn plenty from an online permaculture course. Consider one of these options to start the learning process virtually.

A quick note: prices are not posted in this article as these change over time. You can research prices via the links provided.

1. Free Permaculture

Taught by Heather Jo Flores, the Free Permaculture series lives up to its name with free access to a range of permaculture content.

You can choose from an assortment of mini-courses, join the online forums, or sign up for a year-long, 52-lesson class designed to give you a holistic understanding of permaculture. 

Best for: Anyone interested in permaculture that doesn’t feel ready to commit to more intensive study.

2. Permaculture Women’s Guild

Another course offering from Heather Jo Flores, the Permaculture Women’s Guild provides a double-certification permaculture design course that’s taught by more than 40 women from around the world. This course includes more than forty multimedia classes and one-on-one mentorship opportunities with experts in the field.

You can follow the course at your own pace and take up to a year if desired.

Beyond the design certification course, the Permaculture Women’s Guild offers many others, including the following.

• Design Your Inner Landscape: Learn how to use permaculture principles to overcome procrastination, burnout, and imposter syndrome, and learn to support your own self-care needs.
• Permaculture Women Writers: Connect with nature through writing with a three-week course that lets you meet with other writers, develop a daily writing habit, and discover publishing opportunities .

Best for: Female organic gardeners, community activists, and artists, and designers who want to apply ecological principles to their work.

3. Sustainable Agriculture Institute

Experience the benefits of a fully online permaculture design course in partnership with the Rak Tamachat Permaculture Institute in Thailand. The course is taught by Beau Wickboldt and provides more than 80 hours of material, including 52 hours of original content.

You can try the first lesson free before committing, and it comes with bonus content related to mushroom cultivation, animal husbandry, and homesteading principles.

It’s also possible to earn other certifications from the Sustainable Agriculture Institute, including an online permaculture diploma and an online Masters of Permaculture Design, M.P.Des (cost varies).

Best for: Anyone who wants permaculture design certification with a tropical climate focus.

4. The Permaculture Circle

Geoff Lawton is a world-renowned permaculture teacher and designer. His newest platform, The Permaculture Circle, is a free resource that builds on the ideas of Bill Mollison (Lawton’s original teacher) for modern permaculture design.

You’ll gain access to more than 100 videos, a nine-part mini permaculture course, and a weekly newsletter that connects you with the greater permaculture community.

Best for: Those who want to join a free online community of other permaculture enthusiasts.

5. High Sierra Permaculture

Founded by Bret James, High Sierra Permaculture will teach you the basic principles of permaculture virtually. James has more than a thousand hours of in-field experience and two courses available.

• The Permaculture Homesteading Crash Course: Learn how to grow food while tending to the environment (free).
• Find the Perfect Homestead Property: Learn how to choose the right piece of land through permaculture tools, so you don’t live with regret or spend thousands correcting unexpected problems ($47).

Best for: Those property shopping or in the beginning stages of transitioning to a permaculture-friendly lifestyle.

6. Permaculture Visions

Permaculture Visions differentiates itself from other virtual learning opportunities by focusing on one-on-one mentorship in a virtual setting.

You can choose between an Introduction to Permaculture Course or sign up for the certified Full Permaculture Design Course. The Design Course consists of 20 topics. You have up to two years to complete everything once you sign up.

Best for: Those who want the feeling of a small group setting in a virtual format.

7. Permaculture Rising

Offered by Oregon State University, the Permaculture Rising Design Course for ten weeks of content (start dates are staggered throughout the year). This means that you will take the course simultaneously with others around the world and will receive an official certification at completion.

All participants will interact with each other through the program’s blog and by sharing and viewing each other’s designs.

The University offers other sustainability-focused online courses as well, including Permaculture Food Forests and Rainwater Harvesting. New courses are added throughout the year.

Best for: Those who want to engage with permaculture peers and follow a set course schedule.

Other Ways to Expand Your Permaculture Education

If you’re not ready to commit to a fully online course for learning about permaculture, then books may prove to be the perfect resource. Here are some of the most notable titles within the field to get you started.

Introduction to Permaculture by Bill Mollison

Considered to be the father of the permaculture movement, Bill Mollison wrote several books dedicated to its theory and practice. This introductory book breaks down the principles for beginners without compromising on its original intent.  

Gaia’s Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture by Toby Hemenway

Learn how to apply permaculture principles directly to your garden through this resource book that breaks down the movement’s sweeping themes for your own backyard.

The Resilient Farm and Homestead: An Innovative Permaculture and Whole Systems Design Approach by Ben Falk

Improve the efficiency and environmental sustainability of your homestead or small farm by adapting permaculture principles meant for that scale. The book relies on the strategies Falk honed as a land designer and site developer before using them to create a national-recognized permaculture farm.

Permaculture Design: A Step-by-Step Guide by Aranya

For those who want actionable takeaways, this book is the perfect permaculture teacher. You’ll learn how to implement the movement’s principles right away for tangible impacts on your property right away.

The post The 7 Best Online Permaculture Courses You Can Take Today appeared first on Rural Sprout.

To find out if you could benefit from a garden shed, ask yourself: Do my growing number of garden tools need a new home? There’s your answer. Having clean tools, which all have their place, will elevate these feelings of contentment, too.

Let’s get practical for a moment. Garden tools take up space.

Sometimes, they take up a lot of space; other times, not so much. Obviously, it depends on how involved you are in gardening. Or how much you plan to be.

When you get to choose a new garden shed, it’s wise to know what sort of tools you’ll be storing.

So, what goes in a gardening shed?

Let’s make a quick list. Go ahead and tick them off in your mind as you scroll through:

• shovels
• spades
• rakes
• hand tools
• pruners
• tomato cages
• mowers and blowers
• trash bags
• work gloves
• bird feed and feeders
• pots and containers
• old potting soil
• fertilizer
• twine and ties
• hoses
• watering cans
• brushes
• outdoor furniture you currently aren’t using

How many tools came to mind as you read the list?

If you are in the market for a new garden shed, my advice would be to first take an inventory of all your garden tools as you write them down on a sheet of paper.

You wouldn’t like to build a shed, only to find out that there isn’t sufficient space for your lawnmower – that is unless you are ready to get rid of your lawn altogether. That’s a more extreme scenario. For the moment, let’s stick to the task at hand – choosing the best garden shed for you and your garden tools.

How Big Should a Garden Shed Be?

Adding a garden shed to your property could very well be a long-term investment. But it doesn’t have to be. When you plan it right, you can make the garden shed a permanent feature on your property, or you can choose something lighter weight that will fulfill the job for only a couple of years.

The smallest garden sheds might only set your wallet back a few hundred dollars, whereas bigger sheds with lots of luxurious shelving could run into the thousands.

Trying to determine the price always brings us back to size and materials.

How much space do you need for your garden tools?

As mentioned above, it’s useful to know how much space your garden tools take up (including how many more you plan to purchase) before committing to a plan.

• Garden sheds for small yards range from 4′ x 2′, which is perfect for a selection of hand tools all the way up to 8′ x 4′. The former is more like a tool closet, and the latter looks more like a traditional shed with a door that allows a lawnmower to be pushed in and out.
• Garden sheds for medium yards generally start at 6′ x 6′ and go up to 8′ x 8′ in size. In the larger size, they almost start to act as she sheds or small artist studios. Choose the right materials, and they can go either way.
• For large yards, most prefabricated sheds go all the way up to 12′ x 12′. Now we’re talking about a lot of space to fill, as well as thousands of dollars to build it or set it up.

But in the case of garden sheds, bigger is not necessarily better. It’s your organizational skills, shelves and hooks that will make all the difference in the world.

If you still aren’t sure what size will suit your needs, grab a tape measure and head outside to the spot where you imagine your garden shed residing. It’s a great way to visualize it if you are having difficulty knowing how much space your shed will take up.

Should You Build Your Own Garden Shed or Buy a Shed?

The choice to build your own garden shed or opt for one ready to put together is an easy one.

If you have the tools at hand and the experience working with them, then the DIY route is probably the best option for you. Building your own garden shed allows you more control over choosing materials; it also gives you creative freedom.

However, if the building of a garden shed would entail buying lots of tools to complete the project, then an almost-ready-made one is probably a better option. While buying a shed often costs more money, it also saves you time. If you’re someone who is ready to get started right away, go ahead and splurge – there are many prefab garden sheds out there to choose from. Will list a few sites to check out in just a minute.

Homemade Garden Shed Plans

First things first, you need to decide where that new garden shed of yours is going and how much space you can commit to an outbuilding. Then, dive deeper and find out what kind of foundation it needs and how permanent you want the structure to be.

At the same time, you’ll also need to check local building codes for setbacks. After all, you wouldn’t want to build it, only to move it later. Find more on permits later in this article.

It isn’t necessary to know exactly how it should look at first, with a gable roof or a smaller shed with a lean-to style roof. But, you should look around for inspiration. Pinterest is a great place to start your search.

Sheds can range from fairytale-like all the way to plain and pragmatic. All you have to do is build something that is pleasing to you.

One thing a garden shed should do, however, is last for a long time.

Here are some ideas to help you get started with choosing the best garden shed:

• DIY Cedar Garden Shed – No Kit & Built in a Weekend! – Stacy’s Savings
• Garden Shed Plans – Build Blueprint
• How to Build a Shed on the Cheap – Family Handyman
• DIY Shed Design Ideas – How To Build A Garden Shed from Scratch – Home Edit
• How to Build Your Own Shed from Scratch w/ Plans – Wood Create

Prefab Garden Sheds

If you have more money than time and tools, it’s wise to take a look at what’s already out there on the market, so you can organize and get your garden growing faster.

We’ve already mentioned that it’s going to cost you more, so don’t be surprised at a price tag of thousands, plus shipping costs. However, prefab garden sheds come with materials that are precut and ready to put together with simple tools, which most homesteaders already have. Assembly comes in the form of your own manual labor, yet there is a community or family building to that aspect, too.

Whether you are building from scratch or buying a garden shed online, watch out for these 7 things:

• Floor space – Will there be enough room for shelves as well as fitting in other larger equipment? If you are good at visualizing, this won’t be a problem, but if you need more guidance, try to step into a ready-made shed in person.
• Height – Will you be able to fully stand up in the shed, or will you be bending your neck? The latter may not be a problem if it’s more of a garden tool closet, but if you need to spend more time in there, imagine how difficult it is to be productive in a tent.
• Entryway – If the shed doors are too narrow, it’s going to be a challenge to get a lawnmower in. Depending on the location of the shed, double doors and/or a ramp may be necessary for riding mowers.
• A source of light – Is natural light important? If so, then a window can provide some daytime light. It does reduce some storage space, yet it makes finding things in the shed a lot easier.
• Shed foundation – Naturally, you can’t just plop the garden shed on top of the soil; there’s more to it than that. The base of your shed can be gravel, concrete or masonry blocks.
• Flooring – Choosing flooring for your shed sounds like it could be easy, but there’s really a lot to consider. Read this in-depth article to find out more about shed flooring options.
• Insulation – Will this garden shed of yours need to be heated in winter months, or are you okay with letting in the cold?

If you need a garden shed but don’t have the skills to build it or put it together, another option between the two would be to have a local woodworker/carpenter/friend build it, or put it together, for you.

Prefab garden shed designs to consider:

Besides the sampling below, you can also find garden shed kits on Amazon and at stores like Lowe’s and Costco.

• Garden Sheds from Summerwood Products
• Storage Shed Kits from Yard Craft
• Cedar Shed Kits by Cedar Shed
• Garden Sheds from Polhus (UK)

After looking at many of these garden sheds for sale, all I can say is that I have my eye on at least 3 of them. Now, if only I needed a shed!

At the moment, our barn is large enough for our few gardening tools, a wheelbarrow, firewood and cross-cut saws.

What Materials Make the Best Garden Shed?

The basic materials that sheds are made out of are wood, metal or some sort of composite/plastic.

Which one appeals to you at first hearing? That’s most likely the shed material that’s going to work out the best for you.

These three options will give you a good range of budget, indoor organizational space and outdoor aesthetics.

Let’s start by looking at the benefits of metal sheds.

Metal sheds are generally considered durable where good quality is concerned. Unless you have the tools for cutting metal, however, these are going to be prefab jobs.

Still, they are often cheaper than wood, they won’t rot, they’re often rust- and corrosion-resistant, and they’ll pretty much stand out in the elements of nature for several years without intervention. No repainting, not even a drop of pest control. If you are in the habit of storing valuable tools, you’ll definitely want to consider planting a metal garden shed on a good foundation in your backyard.

On average, a metal shed will last well over 10 years. You can make that up to 25 years with little maintenance and a little bit of luck.

There must be some cons to installing a metal shed, right?

For starters, most people find metal sheds less attractive in the landscape. Perfunctory as they are, that’s probably true.

Because of the material at hand – metal, most people won’t have the skills or the tools to customize shelving, racks, etc., let alone to put it up without hiring someone skilled in the trade. Bits may need welding; you might even need to bring in an angle grinder, plus those sharp edges!

I know someone who has a knack for cutting himself on every sharp edge he finds. A metal shed isn’t for everybody. But it may be for you. Consider them budget-friendly and low-maintenance, plus they come in a range of sizes for every backyard and farm.

The Good and Not-Too-Bad of Wood Sheds

Wood sheds are by far the best-looking sheds out there, but you don’t have to take my word for it; just look around.

Beyond appearance, wood sheds are the easiest of the three types of sheds to assemble, even for DIY beginners. Wood, being a natural insulator, will make them cooler in summer and warmer in winter, as opposed to a metal shed, which heats up in summer and freezes in winter. A side bonus is, that when you make a custom-built shed, you get to choose the thickness of the wood.

The cheapest way to build a wood shed is with overlap cladding, wherein the boards are attached to a timber framework. A word of caution: wood will often warp, leaving air gaps in between the boards. It’s a free source of airflow, but it also allows insects and rodents passages to play in.

A sturdier version of a wooden shed will use shiplap cladding. These shiplap panels overlap (instead of interlock) for a more defined finish, with protection from the elements.

Finally, the strongest and longest-lasting wooden sheds use tongue and groove interlocking timber boards. This, by sheer design, will make the walls tough and hard to break into. At the same time, the tightness protects your tools from rain, draughts and moisture.

If you want to find out more about cladding options, this article will clad you with everything you need to know.

Naturally, the wood that you choose will depend greatly on your budget, but what you really need to know about wood sheds, is that they are easily customizable both inside and out. Not only is it easy to add shelving, but you can knock a nail in the wall and have a tool holder ready with a few knocks of a hammer.

On the outside, they can be stained or painted any color of your liking. You can even make them match your home.

The not-so-good part about wood sheds?

Wooden sheds, just like metal ones, can function for several years.

The barn we currently use as a wood-cutting shed is several decades old. Sure, the wood is wearing down as it was once used as a stable for horses, cows and pigs, but it’s big, very airy and gives us a lot of space to store wood in winter.

If you can’t imagine the damage that wood can endure, here’s a picture to enlighten you:

That’s one of the downfalls of wood. Now, you could go with pressure-treated lumber, yet if you are trying to avoid chemicals and toxic preservatives, other options will suit your environmental ethics better.

Another thing you may have trouble with, depending on your location, is insect infestation.

As far as assembly time goes, I can only say that many hands make light work. Take some inspiration from the Amish communities and get a bunch of hardworking people together, and time won’t even be an issue.

Oh, then there’s the price. Expect to pay much more for a wood garden shed. In the end, it’ll be worth it.

Plastic sheds for ease of moving and convenience.

If you are renting or unsure of your long-term plans, plastic garden sheds are a viable option for storing your tools outside of the garage.

Plastic garden sheds are often less expensive than metal sheds, and far more mobile in the off-chance that you need to move and want to take your shed with you.

They get bonus points because they are easy to clean; simply hose them down when necessary. At the same time, rot and moisture are never a problem. Plus, they tend to be easy to assemble.

Downfalls to plastic sheds.

The biggest downfall of plastic sheds is that while they are sturdy to some extent, they aren’t the best option for areas with hurricane and tornado-induced high winds. It also goes, hopefully without saying, that they would be easier to break into.

If guarding your tools is absolutely necessary, something stronger would be my best bet.

Your plastic shed may also falter in cold temperatures and really hot ones. So they really are location-specific.

Does Your Garden Shed Need Electricity or Running Water?

In most instances, the answer will be no. Smaller sheds require nothing of the such.

When you get into larger-sized sheds, some source of light may be necessary. There could be times when you need to start your gardening chores early, let’s say, watering your vegetables, or working later into the evening pulling weeds. Of course, you could use a flashlight; we’ve been known to do that a time or two; it all depends on convenience.

And water? Well, if your garden shed is in close proximity to your garden, then you may want to have a water line installed, for watering the vegetable patch or irrigating a nearby greenhouse.

Be sure to think about electricity and plumbing {before} purchasing the materials or kit for a garden shed. It will save you money, time and hassle later on.

Does it Take a Permit to Build a Garden Shed?

This is something you’ll need to take into your own hands with your local permit or zoning department. That being said, if it’s the second shed on your property, you want to install electricity or running water, or you simply need a larger space to store your garden tools, be sure to find out what building or zoning permits you need before spending a dime.

Every state has different building laws and codes. Always contact your local county or city zoning department before breaking ground.

A couple more items to consider as you finish up your last gardening chores of the evening – do you need locks on your shed’s doors and windows? Can you add your new outbuilding to your home insurance policy? Better be prepared, for gardening season will soon be upon us, and you have every right to protect your investment.

Even if it takes a lot of tools to cultivate your gardening dreams, I know you wouldn’t have it any other way. Go, now, and confidently choose the best garden shed that’s right for you.

The post How to Choose the Best Garden Shed for Your Backyard appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Where there are multiple garden path ideas, there’s bound to be at least one beautiful garden walkway that can be yours for the DIY-ing. All it takes to create a garden path are materials, hands-on labor, time and a bit of creativity.

Why Create a Garden Path?

The first thing you should ask yourself is how often do you follow the same routes – to the shed, to the vegetable garden itself, or to a bench beneath a tree? Chances are good that you hardly deviate from those linear and curved patterns.

If you want to get technical about it, walkways and paths provide a transition from one space to another. At the same time, they help to define spaces as they bring order and balance into a landscape.

On the more practical side, garden paths allow you to avoid stepping in slippery mud after the rain or ice in the winter.

They provide a direct route to the places you know and love best. And they prevent the soil from wearing thin, which would lead you right back to some muddy steps if you forgo the path idea altogether.

Look at the steps to the entrance of our home.

It’s all good and fine once you reach the rocks, but until then, it’s a bit muddy when the snow melts and when it rains, which it does quite often.

I wonder if we should install some sort of pavers as a landing?

How Wide Should a Garden Path Be?

As far as garden paths go, my advice is to make it at least as wide as a wheelbarrow. How else would you transport compost and mulch to the garden?

Others say it should be wide enough to walk side-by-side with someone. It depends on how long the path is and where it leads. Three feet is usually a sufficient width for a main garden path, but if you have plenty of space, this can go all the way up to five feet.

Smaller offshoots can be narrower. As long as you make the trail interesting, people will follow it.

Advice on Carrying Out Your Own Garden Path Ideas

Before jumping into a project, you’ll want to check out some of the garden path ideas listed below.

You’ll also want to take into consideration:

• Materials – What will you use? Brick, wood, stone, gravel or something else?
• Construction – Do you have the skills and energy to lay the path, or will you need to hire someone?
• Design – Can you DIY the entire project, or do you want a landscape or garden architect’s expertise? Make sure that your garden path is visually enticing.
• Cost– The more you do yourself, the more you’ll save; however, you may also spend a lot of time doing it.

Ultimately, the size of the chore and your abilities will dictate whether you need help or not with installing a garden path.

It’s easy enough to lay down several feet of gravel on your own. On the other hand, natural stone slabs require heavy lifting, though they are perhaps one of the most beautiful and long-lasting materials out there.

Let’s look at some garden path ideas that cross all walks of life, and all walks of gardens too. You’re sure to find something that fits in nicely with your garden space and your estimated price range.

Garden Path Ideas for Natural and Stylish Walkways

Step your way across these paths, seeking out the beauty in bricks, plants, stone steps and more.

1. Allow Plants to Grow Between the Cracks

If your garden already has a paved path, yet it feels a bit outdated, there’s still one thing left to do – allow plants to come up between the cracks.

I’m not talking about weeds here. Rather, intentionally grow plants that thrive in small spaces.

In the right place, they can even wander off the path, ever so slightly, to add visual interest to the garden. All you need to do, is spread a little sand between the cracks, sprinkle seeds and water them in.

Here are some plants that don’t mind growing in cracks:

• chamomile
• dianthus
• erigeron
• lobelia (annual)
• marjoram
• pennyroyal
• small sedums
• thyme

Naturally, the plants you choose for your walkway will either tolerate full sun or prefer some shade. Plant those which are the most likely to grow.

2. Wood Chips

Wood chips have at least 20 uses in the garden and around the homestead. If that’s the material you have easy access to, or you happen to have it in abundance, use it.

Wood chips are typically a low-cost option for making walkways and garden paths, yet they also add an element of natural beauty. Try and stick with the undyed chips, though; they are far better for the landscape.

Oftentimes, a wood-chipped path will benefit from some sort of edging, so it doesn’t spill out into the grass or garden beds beyond.

If you are prone to walking barefoot, I know from experience that they aren’t always pleasant to walk on. On bare feet, they tend to be poky and rough. With shoes or garden clogs, this isn’t an issue at all.

3. Reclaimed Bricks

Outside of large slabs of flagstone, reclaimed bricks are among my favorite materials for garden paths. That being said, it can go terribly wrong if they aren’t laid properly.

I know of a reclaimed brick garden path that is terribly bumpy – and super slippery when wet – after only a handful of years of being walked and driven on.

If you choose this garden path idea, I know you’re going to do it right. There’s plenty of advice already out there, so I’m not going to bore you with the details. I’ll just give you several links instead:

• How We Built a Reclaimed Brick Garden Path – A Tutorial by Life with Holly
• DIY: Make Pathways From Used Brick – Ben Riddering
• How to Lay a Patio from Reclaimed Bricks – Simply the Nest
• Building a Reclaimed Brick and Stone Pathway – Knorpp and South (video)

4. Gravel Walkway

I’m sure to be stating the obvious, but gravel paths are still a thing. And I suspect they always will be. After all, the world seems to be made from stones.

Not only are gravel paths porous, meaning that they can help diffuse runoff from heavy rainfall, but they are also easy to install, maintenance is minimal (weeding is among the biggest chores), and the cost is often lower than other materials too.

The colors and sizes of rocks make them an ideal natural material for garden paths.

You’ll find several colors in a stone palette to choose from – white, brown, beige, green, grey, gold, black and red. These can be used individually or interchangeably, it’s all up to your eye for design.

As an added bonus, if security in your area is a concern, there’s no mistaking the sound of someone walking on gravel.

5. Flagstone Walkway

To lay a flagstone walkway, you’re going to need some tools (spade, shovel, hand tamp, small sledgehammer, carpenter’s level) as well as materials (edging, sand, flat stone, gravel, etc.).

If you have a lot of surface to cover, you might already see how this is going to be one of the more expensive options on our list of garden path ideas.

When you do choose to go this route, you’re in for some hard work and a beautiful, long-lasting pathway.

For starters, you’ll need to choose your stone, usually about 2-3″ thick. Flagstone refers to a flat stone slab, rather than a specific rock. To keep your costs minimal, it’s best to choose one that is locally available.

After you’ve chosen your materials, all that’s left to do, is lay out the walkway, dig the path, apply edging and landscape fabric (or not if you’d like grass to come up between the cracks) and add sand before laying out the paving stones in a nice and orderly way.

6. Stepping Stones

If you don’t want to go all out flagstone, you can insert stepping stones directly in the grass or in a bed of gravel or mulch, if you prefer.

For the most part, people seem to prefer round stones, but really, anything goes. You can even get stepping stones in the shape of states, in the shape of dragonflies, or bees. Linden leaves, maple leaves, oak leaves, rhubarb leaves. You name it, it’s already been made. And if it hasn’t, you could probably have your dream stepping stones special ordered.

If you have the materials and time, you can even make your own personalized garden stepping stones. And if you find that they turn out pretty good, you might even consider making some to sell as a way to make money from your homestead. See, there’s a bright lining to even the simplest of garden paths.

7. Mosaic Garden Walkway

This one is for the creatives and art lovers out there.

On a mosaic garden walkway, you can let your imagination go wild. The largest ones I’ve seen appear to be like outdoor stone rugs, filled with different colored rocks in all shapes and sizes.

They can cover an entire patio area or wind like a snake into your backyard garden, enticing you to explore further with every step. You can also simplify and use mosaics as stepping stones in the garden path idea above.

Even better yet, you can install symbols in your mosaic walkways. You can represent the seasons or the phases of the moon. Add in some fun elements of water, the sun, or a tree of life.

Mosaics are a really wonderful way to personalize your garden space.

8. Pavers in a Diamond Pattern

Often, our minds take the simplest route and stack things as we best see them fit. Side-to-side and back-to-back. Rarely do we think about tip-to-tip.

When you lay stepping stones in the latter way, you end up with a more elegant walkway. Maybe a little less practical in the long run, yet playful and stylish instead.

If you are able to lay the stones in the ground, you’ll be able to mow right over them without a hitch.

9. Wooden Walkway

We haven’t really talked about wood yet, outside of wood chips, that is.

Wood chips aren’t for every situation, though. I mean, have you ever tried to mow by the edge of them?

It’s not as bad as with gravel, though loose things are known to fly in random directions when caught under the blades of any mowing device. I’ve mowed my fair share of lawns on push and riding mowers, as well as mowing greens, tees and collars on a golf course, so unless there’s edging, it’s best to be careful with wood chips and gravel.

One way to get around this is to have a more dedicated path. One that uses decking boards instead. This could be surrounded by gravel on each side for a serious-looking walkway, or you could plant flowers, bushes and low-growing plants along each side to add immeasurable beauty to the landscape.

This garden path idea gets bonus points for yards with slopes. The boards can easily be turned into steps where needed. It also functions well in wet areas.

10. Tree Slice Pathway

If you happen to have a couple of extra tree stumps standing around or some trees that fell in a storm, why not make a pathway with them? There’s nothing to waste, for the parts you can’t use can still go onto the campfire.

Now, tree stump pathways are a tad rustic. I suppose that’s what people like about them.

Decide for yourself whether or not it’s right for your garden by watching a few videos:

• Simple WOODEN Garden WALKWAY _ How to make garden path from tree cuts – Eco Crafting
• WOODWORK | HOW TO BUILD A DIY WOODEN WALKWAY – Smoky Mountain Outpost
• and this last one just for fun: DIY floor, Log floor, Unique flooring, Wood flooring, Handmade floor, Rustic floor, Natural flooring – Latvian Wood Artisan

Combine a Source of Light With Garden Path Ideas

When all is said and laid down, it may be nearing dusk if you’ve been laying your garden path under the sun all day long. If you ever need to go outside in the evening, and you should, refrain from taking a flashlight. Instead, highlight your path with some garden lights.

Lights in the right location will enhance your experience of being out after dark. Not only will they light your way along a path, but they’ll also give off a cozy glow around patios and outdoor dining spaces.

Garden lighting is an entire topic of its own, you can find a plethora of outdoor lighting ideas here.

Before you go, there’s one last thing to consider before installing a new garden path.

The Importance of Non-slip Surfaces for Garden Paths

The whole point of laying down a more permanent garden path is to make it less slippery than mud. You may know from your own bathroom or spa experiences that not all tiles are alike. Some are more slick than others on bare or flip-flopped feet. This applies to paving materials too.

Try to test out a few samples before your path gets wet.

Another aspect to consider when choosing materials is whether or not you need to provide wheelchair access.

Anti-slip surfaces should also be prioritized when your home includes elders and children.

Now that you have several options, what does your ideal garden path look like?

The post 10 Beautiful DIY Garden Paths For Your Backyard appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Hanging baskets, window boxes, railing planters, and a healthy number of terracotta pots are just the thing to elevate a monotone porch or patio into a heavenly place filled with delightful sights and scents.

Mixing flowers in a container is its own kind of art form, an interesting intersection between gardening and flower arranging.

Putting it all together is similar to creating a floral bouquet, except these flowers are alive and will move and change as the weeks pass. And since soil capacity is limited in a container, the size of the plant and its root system matters a lot more here.

You’ll want flowers that stay in bloom all season long and plant combinations that have shapes and textures that complement and contrast. And the overall tone you want to strike – will it be soft and charming or vibrant and bold? Or something else entirely?

You can luck into some interesting combinations by simply winging it, but the finest arrangements will be thoughtful, balanced, and intentional, with good plant compositions and pleasing color schemes. Think outside of flowers, and grow herbs in your containers as well to add beautiful and edible foliage.

Garden markets and plant nurseries will have hundreds of planter-appropriate flowers to choose from and, therefore, thousands of possible plant combinations.

The Thriller, Filler & Spiller Planting Technique

To help narrow it down, there’s a basic recipe for planting up containers: the thriller, filler, and spiller technique.

Use this fool-proof formula to create stunning flower combinations every time.

Thrillers are the Focal Point

Big, bold, beautiful, and statement plants, thrillers are the star of the show. Usually taller than the rest, these plants draw the eye and set the stage for the rest of the arrangement.

While any gorgeous plant has thriller potential, these showstoppers will have extraordinary traits like captivating colors, extraordinary foliage, or enthralling shapes.

1. Summer Snapdragon (Angelonia angustifolia)

Unlike true snapdragons that fade as soon as summer heats up, summer snapdragon is a hardy lookalike that blooms continuously from late spring to early fall.

Summer snapdragon is a low-maintenance beauty from Mexico with exceptional heat and drought tolerance. The fragrant flowers, available in blues, purples, pinks, white, and bicolor, bloom along terminal spikes and require no deadheading to prompt re-bloom.

Growing 12 to 24 inches tall and 9 to 12 inches wide, summer snapdragon is an excellent thriller when planted in the center or back of your container.

Sun exposure: Full sun

Blooming period: May to September

2. Mandevilla (Mandevilla spp.)

A thriller with loads of vertical interest, mandevilla is a showy and fragrant flowering vine that blooms through summer and into the fall.

Mandevilla is a climber that grows 10 feet or more in the ground. Yet, when confined to a large pot, it will be kept to a more reasonable 3 to 5 feet. Give it a 3-foot trellis to twine around and pinch back any growth that droops beyond.

It’s worth a little extra upkeep for the lovely mandevilla blooms that come in hues of pink, white, or red. The flowers are large and funnel-shaped, flaring out in 5-petal wheels, each 3 to 4 inches across.

Sun exposure: Full sun to partial shade

Blooming period: June to frost

3. Flowering Tobacco (Nicotiana alata)

For those summer evenings sitting around the patio, we have flowering tobacco to keep us enchanted long into the night.

Flowering tobacco blooms with sweetly scented trumpet-shaped flowers in yellow-green, white, pink, or red. The flowering stalks arise above a bed of fuzzy dark green basal leaves. The star-shaped blooms open only at night, releasing a jasmine-like perfume into the air to draw in nocturnal pollinators.

Best for large pots and planters, flowering tobacco can grow 3 to 5 feet tall and up to 2 feet wide. Keep its growth tamed and compact in a container by pruning back the flowering stalks.

Sun exposure: Full sun to partial shade

Blooming period: June to frost

4. Celosia (Celosia argenta)

Celosias make up a wonderful group of eye-catching plants that are sure to bring a thrill.

There’s the plume cockscomb of the Plumosa Group that blooms densely on upright feathery spikes in the brightest shades of red, yellow, orange, purple, pink, and cream.

There’s also the Spicata Group, known as silver cockscomb. This celosia features narrower plumes and softer colors that transition, in an ombre style, from deep pink to silver down the flowerhead.

Then there’s crested cockscomb from the Cristata Group. The highly unusual flowers, in red, rose, cream, or yellow, are thick, flat, and bunched up into wavy ridges.

Whichever you fancy, there’s a type of celosia for any size container. Larger types will grow up to 3 feet tall and 18 inches wide, while dwarf varieties will grow only 12 inches tall and half as wide.

Sun exposure: Full sun

Blooming period: June to frost

5. Angel Wings (Caladium bicolor)

Angel wings aren’t grown so much for their flowers, which are tiny, insignificant, and usually hidden away under the foliage. Rather, angel wings are beloved for the large arrowhead-shaped leaves that come in a spectacular range of colors.

There are dozens of cultivars that combine two or more colors in reds, pinks, whites, or greens. The foliage might be mottled, spotted, speckled, or softly fade from one hue to the next.

You can find varieties that will grow only 12 inches tall and others that can hit 3 feet or more in height, nicely filling the thriller position in baskets, pots, and planters.

Sun exposure: Partial to full shade

6. Canna Lily (Canna spp.)

As one of the most popular thrillers to date, the canna lily is a stunning specimen that will give the mixed pot that tropical feel.

Canna lily blooms from mid-summer to autumn on erect stems with flowers reminiscent of iris. The colors range from reds, pinks, oranges, yellows, cream, and bicolor.

As the flowers fade, the delightful foliage remains. Canna lily has large paddle-like leaves in greens, bluish-greens, bronze, or orange – depending on the variety – with striped and variegated veins that look especially splendid when backlit by the sun.

Canna lily is a big one better reserved for your largest pots. It can grow as much as 6 feet tall and wide by the end of summer.

Sun exposure: Full sun

Blooming period: July to September

Fillers Pad Out the Space

Adding mass to the container, fillers are flowering or foliage plants that surround the thriller. Fillers are often bushy and billowy, contributing a wonderful contrast in texture and color to the mix.

Choose fillers that are a third or two-thirds the size of your star player so as not to overwhelm your thriller.

7. Floss Flower (Ageratum houstonianum)

Floss flower forms compact yet bushy mounds that provide an excellent counterpoint in color, shape, and texture.

From late spring onwards, the plant is thick with fluffy, rounded, lightly frilled flowers in shades of blue, pink, white, red, or bicolor. Cultivars range from 4 inches to 18 inches tall, making floss flower a suitable filler choice for any potted mix.

Deadheading is optional but will promote even more profuse blooming.

Sun exposure: Full sun to partial shade

Blooming period: June to frost

8. Petunia (Petunia spp.)

Between ease of care, versatility in the garden, and non-stop blooms, it’s no wonder petunias are among the most popular bedding plants.

There’s an enormous range of complex hybrids to choose from, and most have a wonderful spreading habit with mass appeal. Some grow only 6 inches tall, while others can reach heights of 2 feet.

Petunias come in every color of the rainbow, and many varieties have a sweet fruity aroma that attracts butterflies, hummingbirds – and humans – alike.

Sun exposure: Full sun to partial shade

Blooming period: May to frost

9. Begonia (Begonia spp.)

With 1,300 species in the genus, begonias are highly prized in the container garden for their continuously blooming flowers or strikingly colorful foliage.

Tuberous begonias have the largest flowers in the genus and come in a range of reds, pinks, yellows, oranges, and creamy white. These varieties can be upright or trailing with fleshy stems and hairy leaves in green or burgundy. Growing 12 to 18 inches tall, tuberous begonias are great for both baskets and planters.

Wax begonias feature dark green foliage and small but numerous clusters of single or double flowers in red, pink, white, and bicolor. Typical cultivars will grow 12 inches tall, while dwarf varieties hit only 8 inches in height.

For the shadiest locations, rex begonias proffer up stunning heart-shaped foliage up to 12 inches long and 8 inches wide. Often with prominent veining, amazing textures, and fantastic color combinations, rex begonias are best kept in partial to full shade.

Sun exposure: Partial shade

Blooming period: June to frost

10. Gerbera Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii)

The ever-adorable gerbera daisy – also called the African daisy – is a charming specimen that adds much color to the filler niche in larger pots and planters.

An upright plant that forms a basal rosette of dark green leaves, the blooms arise on naked stems with single or semi-double daisies up to 5 inches wide. There’s a huge range of bright and cheery colors to choose from, in reds, yellows, oranges, white, pastels, and bicolor.

Growing up to 18 inches tall, gerbera daisies flower freely throughout the warm months but bloom most profusely in early summer and late fall.

Sun exposure: Full sun to partial shade

Blooming period: May to October

11. Annual Lobelia (Lobelia erinus)

A sprawling, sometimes trailing, mounding plant, annual lobelia has blooms so abundant they cover nearly all the foliage. The half-inch flowers are tubular with a trio of distinctive bottom petals in hues of blue, violet, purple, red, and pink.

This plant performs best in the cooler weather of spring and autumn. Where summers are very hot, lobelia is better placed in spots where it will receive morning sun and afternoon shade. If plants fade due to the heat, shear them back to prompt rebloom.

Lobelia grows just 4 to 9 inches tall and is a lovely filler in hanging baskets, window boxes, and planters that could use more color.

Sun exposure: Full sun to partial shade

Blooming period: April to frost

Spillers Add Texture and Dimension

There’s no better way to showcase trailing flowers and foliage than when they are lifted up and allowed to gracefully tumble over the sides of the basket or pot.

The spiller not only softens the edges of the arrangement but also brings the final word that rounds out the dialogue started by the thriller and the filler.

12. Million Bells (Calibrachoa spp.)

Million bells is an easygoing plant that produces hundreds of small petunia-like flowers throughout the entire growing season.  The blooms come in an array of colors – violet, blue, pink, red, magenta, orange, yellow, or white – to help harmonize your overall theme.  

It’s a low grower that won’t overwhelm the others, reaching only 3 to 9 inches tall. The long, almost woody stems will spread on and on to nearly 24 inches.

The productive flowers are self-cleaning and don’t need to be deadheaded at all. Million bells doesn’t mind the heat and possesses exceptional drought tolerance, too.

Sun exposure: Full sun

Blooming period: June to frost

13. Golden Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’)

Winter hardy in zones 3 to 9, golden creeping jenny is known to spread uncontrollably when planted in the ground. We can, however, enjoy it without worry when it’s corralled in a container.

It has graceful trailing stems with rounded leaves that provide an excellent contrast to any floral mix. Depending on the level of light it receives, the foliage ranges from lime to chartreuse to golden yellow. In early summer, it blooms all over with bright yellow cup-shaped flowers.

Forming a ground-hugging mat, golden creeping Jenny rises to 2 to 4 inches tall while its lengthy stems will dangle 24 inches over the sides of the container.

Sun exposure: Full sun to partial shade

Blooming period: June

14. Sprenger’s Asparagus Fern (Asparagus densiflorus ‘Sprengeri’)

When you want more texture in your flower arrangement, Sprenger’s asparagus fern won’t disappoint.

The arching, semi-stiff stems – covered in soft and fluffy needle-like leaves – give a great contrast to the others in the pot. Draping over the sides up to 24 inches, asparagus fern flowers in late spring with tiny white fragrant blooms that turn to attractive red berries by fall.

In zones 9 to 11, asparagus fern is better suited as a houseplant. It’s invasive in Hawaii, Florida, and California, where the seed is dispersed by birds. In cooler climes, it is killed by frost and is safe to grow outside. Bring it indoors over winter so you can enjoy its feathery fronds year-round.

Sun exposure: Partial shade

Blooming period: May to June

15. Moss Rose (Portulaca grandiflora)

A continuous bloomer with a rambling habit, moss rose is native to South America and likes it hot, dry, and sunny. A good spiller for containers of any size and shape, it grows 6 to 8 inches tall and sprawls more than 12 inches wide.

Moss rose is a succulent with leaves that are narrow and cylindrical, borne on reddish stems. The fleshy foliage makes moss rose very tolerant of heat and drought.

The 1-inch flowers are ruffled like roses and come in single, semi-double, and double forms in red, rose, orange, salmon, white, yellow, and pastel shades. The flowers only open in sunlight and close up tightly on cloudy days.

Sun exposure: Full sun

Blooming period: June to frost

More Flower Mixing Design Tips

These 15 flowering thrillers, fillers and spillers for your container garden are the tip of the iceberg – the options for gorgeous annual plants are many! And don’t forget; there are lots of edible plants you can add to your containers right alongside your flowers. You might even consider adding a strawberry plant or two.

It’s easy to become overwhelmed by choice, so here are a few more design tips to help guide you along in your flower arranging journey:

Less is more.

Depending on the size of the container you’re working with, stick to three types of plants for smaller planters and up to seven for larger ones.

Limit your palette.

A rainbow of colors is great in theory, but throwing the whole kitchen sink into your container can overpower the senses. Use a narrower range of hues, 3 to 5 tops.

Use a color wheel.

Here’s a handy tool for picking out color harmonies – from complementary to monochromatic to tetradic hues.

Break the rules.

The thriller, filler, and spiller technique is a great place to start when combining flowers – but don’t overuse it. When you have numerous pots, boxes, and baskets to fill, relying too much on this method will make all of your mixes appear a bit too formulaic.

The nice thing about potted floral arrangements is they are temporary and get redesigned every spring. You don’t need to have a thriller in every container, for instance, and a series of only mounding and trailing spillers can look pretty amazing too.

The post 15 Thrillers, Fillers & Spillers For Stunning Container Flower Displays appeared first on Rural Sprout.

There’s something uniquely special about trees.

Trees give us cool shade in summertime and spectacular color in fall. They help take the dullness out of the winter landscape and are among the first plants to signal spring is on its way.

But more than this, the slow but steady growth of trees marks the passage of time and many of life’s milestones. Perhaps your favorite tree is the one you climbed as a child or spent countless afternoons beneath its boughs with a book.

It’s no wonder we often form a deep emotional attachment to our trees.

Our trees become such a fixture of the home and garden that it can be hard to see them go. When a tree dies or needs to be cut down, it can vastly alter the look and feel of your landscape and leave some mighty big shoes to fill.

All the more reason to plant more trees!

After a tree is taken down, the stump left behind can be an eyesore and a tripping hazard – and not to mention a somber reminder of your bygone tree.

Stump removal takes a bit of work. You can rent a stump grinder or dig it out by hand. You can even pee on it to rot it away faster.

The path of least resistance, however, would be to leave that tree stump right where it is in the ground. Like subtraction by addition, a plain tree stump can be given renewed purpose as a one-of-a-kind lawn ornament, piece of furniture, or work of art.

So when life hands you a tree stump, it can be an excellent opportunity to let your creativity blossom. Here are 10 fantastic ideas for making an ordinary tree stump into something incredible.

1. Tree Stump Planter

It’s a dull old tree stump one day and a beautiful garden focal point the next!

A tree stump planter – filled with a mix of annuals, spring bulbs, trailing plants, and creeping ground covers – is a super clever way to bring your dead tree stump back into the land of the living.

To make your tree stump into a wooden plant pot, you’ll need to hollow out the center to create a planting nook in the middle of the trunk.

Leaving a couple of inches around the edge to serve as the rim, use a drill or saw to clear away bits of wood from the middle of the stump. You’ll want to make it deep and wide to comfortably house the plants’ roots.

For better drainage, drill some holes along the bottom of the bowl or add an inch or two of gravel.

When you’re satisfied with the size and shape of the planter, fill it up with compost and plant your plants.

Make the tree stump planter an eye-catching statement piece by adding a variety of flowers around the base of the trunk. Here are some gorgeous tree stump planter ideas to inspire your own design.

2. Mossy Tree Stump

If your tree stump is situated in a damp and shady spot where other plants refuse to grow, creating a woodlands look with moss could be the right solution for you.

Live tree mosses are low-maintenance plants that can be purchased by the bag from most plant nurseries. Look for moss species native to your region that grow specifically on trees.

To get moss started on a tree stump, slather wet mud over the surface. Nestle the moss onto the top and sides of the stump to adhere it to the wood, and gently mist the area.

Keep the tree stump moist at first with daily spritzing until the moss is established and starts to colonize new parts of the trunk. Then, simply water your mossy stump at the same time you would irrigate the rest of your garden.

3. Tree Stump Mushrooms

Growing mushrooms is a weird and wonderful departure from your typical leafy greens.

You probably already know you can use cut hardwood logs to grow an array of delicious gourmet mushrooms. There’s not much to stop you from giving your tree stump the same mushroom-inoculation treatment.

For the best results, your stump would need to be in a shady to dappled sunlight location. It’s also best if the stump comes from a hardwood tree. As long as yours meets these requirements, a tree stump is a great option as a fungi-growing medium.

The steps for growing mushrooms on a tree stump are the same as wooden logs. Drill holes in the wood in a checkerboard pattern and plug them up with shiitake, oyster, lion’s mane, reishi, maitake, or some other wood-loving mushroom spawn. Seal the plugs with wax and keep the wood moist.

There’s another added bonus for growing mushrooms on tree stumps. As the mushrooms develop, they absorb nutrients from the decaying wood. This will help rot down that tree stump much more quickly.

4. Wildlife Waterer

A tree stump is fairly boring and uninteresting on its own. But you can slap a watering station on top to instantly transform it into a lively creature feature for your yard.

A sturdy and flat-topped stump is the perfect natural pedestal for setting out birdbaths and other wildlife watering stations.

It’s about as no-fuss as DIYs go. If you have an old birdbath basin, great! If not, set out a shallow 2-inch deep dish, pan, or bowl on top of the tree stump and fill it up with water. Once the birds have discovered it, it’ll be a delight to watch their frolicking bath time routine.

Pile up some pebbles on one side to make it a welcoming (and safe!) spot for bees and butterflies to indulge in as well.

5. Sundial Mount

Before watches, clocks, and smartphones, sundials were the simple technology used to indicate the time of day.

Using sun and shadow to track the passage of time, sundials aren’t always precise in their time-telling and are totally useless at night. Still, they’re pretty neat.

Sundials will add interest to your garden décor and can come in handy when you need a gist of the hour – especially if you often lose track of time working in the garden.

A tree stump that’s located in a sunny and open area is an ideal spot for mounting a sundial. For the most accurate time reading, the top of the stump should be perfectly flat and horizontal. If your tree stump isn’t exactly even, use a level and sander to smooth out the surface.

If you don’t have a ready-made sundial squirreled away in your shed, you can make your own from a flat rock.

6. Gnome Home

An absolutely adorable use for a tree stump, a gnome home is sure to add a touch of whimsy and magic to your outdoor spaces.

A gnome home is better suited for larger stumps, at least 4 to 5 feet tall. The top of the trunk is cut at opposite angles to accommodate a pitched roof. With a plywood frame attached to the top, cedar shakes are glued together to create rustic shingles. Use a chainsaw and chisel to cut out a set of stairs, the doorway, and window openings.

Get the basic gnome house structure down, and then it’s all about the fun little details. Carved doors, stained glass windows, tiny wind chimes, twinkling lights, and a wee garden filled with low-growing and colorful blooms are some decorative elements that any imaginary elf would love.

Shorter and narrower tree stumps can become a centerpiece for an equally enchanting fairy garden, too.

7. Tree Stump Tables

It’s not hard to see a table in a tree stump.

These are nature’s tabletops, after all. And when you use your tree stump as the table base, the job’s already halfway done.

The natural beauty of a tree stump table – with its unique markings, knots, and textures – means no two will look alike. If your stump happens to be in a spot that’s ideal for outdoor entertaining, it can readily become a charming and functional piece of furniture.

Smaller stumps can instantly become simple side tables and stools without any special treatment.

For a bigger table to gather round, a wide and sturdy stump can be topped with a large wood slab. Or you can make your own table topper from pallets, barn boards, or other reclaimed materials. Another option is to upcycle a glass or wood top from an old set.

Apply a few coats of wood sealer so your bucolic patio set will last a long time.

8. Games Table

Another brilliant idea for a flat-topped tree stump is to make it into a permanent outdoor gaming table.

Pull up some lawn chairs and keep the little ones entertained with garden-themed tic tac toe. Instead of the usual X’s and O’s, river rocks are painted into cute bumblebees and ladybugs.

For the older kiddos, a stump can be remade into a chess and checkers board with some black paint and masking tape.

9. Treehouse

Who says treehouses can only be built around living trees?

In this DIY, a kids’ playhouse is taken apart and reassembled on top of a tree stump:

Here’s an example of a more elaborate stump house, replete with a suspended bridge, spiral tube slide, screened windows, and a skylight.

Unlike a treehouse constructed in and around a live tree, tree stumps will rot eventually. It can take a decade or more for a stump from a mature tree to begin to deteriorate and render the treehouse structurally unsafe.

By that time, your kids may have already aged out of their love of epic treehouse adventures. You can play it safe by sealing up the stump surface with a coat of household paint or wood preservative to keep moisture and insects out.

10. Tree Stump Sculpture

Where some see an unsightly stump, others see a blank canvas for creating a truly extraordinary masterpiece.

From simple carvings to intricate works of art, a tree stump sculpture will pay proper homage to your old tree’s many years of service.

Hardwood stumps with a good bit of girth and height are the best candidates for sculpting. Bears, eagles, fish, serpents, totems, angels, and mermaids are just some of the forms a stump sculpture can take.

Stump carvings start with a chainsaw to remove the outer bark and give the trunk some basic shaping. Then a hammer and chisel is used to refine the shape and add detail.

Here’s a time-lapse of a wood spirit carved from an 8-foot tall oak stump:

If you’re not comfortable wielding a chainsaw, there’s no shame in hiring this project out. There are plenty of professional tree sculptors out there with the skill and know-how to make your tree stump vision into a reality.

The post 10 Creative Things You Can Do With a Tree Stump appeared first on Rural Sprout.

For many of us, planning our garden is one of the things we enjoy about gardening. For others, planning is less of a priority and more of an afterthought. But if you’re serious about a successful growing season, there are a few questions you should ask about the last one before you put a single seed in the ground.

Plan to Plan

I don’t know about you, but I love planning my garden, sometimes more than my actual garden, because it’s perfect. Everything is neat and tidy, all laid out on graph paper and placed with thought and care: no pests, no disease, and no weather issues. On paper, it’s the perfect garden.

But whether you’re like me and spend a lot of time planning or you’re a “plant on the fly” gardener, we should all look at last year’s successes and failures. There’s plenty of information there we can use to make the coming growing season easier.

For those who don’t plan out their garden (I’m trying hard not to judge you.), I encourage you to sit down with this article and a pen and paper and make some notes. Use them when you’re out there poking transplants in the dirt. Why?

Planning your growing season helps you:

• learn from past season mistakes.
• incorporate new varieties.
• visualize plant spacing and heights and make adjustments before they’re in the ground.
• implement companion planting.
• take advantage of crop rotation.
• see if you have space for everything you want to grow.
• manage pests and disease.

How Does Your Garden Grow?

Recording all that happens during a season provides a wealth of knowledge about your garden, but only if you document it. While it’s great to recommend a garden planner, it’s only helpful if you prefer paper and are diligent about using it.

You need to use a method of documenting that you’ll stick with. I recommend something easy to use that can go in the garden with you.

Every year, my dad would order the annual Farmer’s Almanac Planner. And every day, he would jot down notes about the weather, the garden, and the homestead. By the next spring, he had a book full of helpful notes.

I can’t do that. I’m terrible at journaling every day. My phone is my tool for recording my season through photos and notes. I still maintain a paper garden journal, but it’s more for fun and stress relief. The brunt of my planting information is in my phone.

Be honest with yourself.

If you want that pretty garden planner with all the fancy tabs and artwork but know you’re terrible at journaling, maybe that’s not the best option. Instead, choose a system that plays to your strengths.

Look for a gardening app you like. Or snap a few photos each time you head out to the garden. Set up an album in your photo managing app dedicated to that year’s garden pics, and share it with your partner so they can add photos too. Make notes in Keep or another app. (Go ahead and buy the planner, too, if it makes you happy.)

Questions to Ask About the Last Growing Season

Grab a pen, paper, and your favorite beverage, and set aside time to answer these questions. Draw pictures if it helps, and refer to seed packets and any documentation you have from last year. Check out photos from last year’s garden to help jog your memory. You’ll finish with a significant head’s up on a great garden this year.

1. Last Year’s Garden Was ______

This is a great question to get the gears turning. How was your season overall? What stands out a year later? Was it a great season? Was the weather a challenge? Were the tomatoes chef-kiss amazing last year?  

2. What Pests Did You Encounter?

This is an important question, as some pests can winter over in the soil. Tomato hornworms, Colorado potato beetles and squash borers are a few.

Knowing what pests popped up and where means you can avoid planting their favorite foods in the same spot. (Another great reason to employ crop rotation.)

You may choose to use neem oil and do a soil drench in that area. Just be mindful that even with a natural and organic solution like neem, you’re killing more than the intended pest.

3. How Did New Varieties Fare?

It’s hard to resist all the cool new veggie seeds when the seed catalogs start arriving. So, most of us don’t.

If you planted a new variety last year, how did it do? Was it fun but not something you would plant again? Is it going to be your go-to tomato, bean, what-have-you? How was the yield in comparison to other varieties of this plant? How about the flavor? Does it deserve a spot in your garden again this year? And if so, are you going to stop planting something else?

4. Did You Fertilize and Where?

Over-fertilization is a huge problem, especially if you’re using synthetic fertilizers. Unabsorbed fertilizer can get washed into streams, lakes and rivers by the rain.

As gardeners, we’re guilty of liberally applying fertilizer without bothering to test the soil and see if it’s needed. Take note of the crops you fertilized last year and where they were in the garden. Also note where beans, peas and other nitrogen-fixing crops were planted. Test your soil, taking samples from different areas. This will give you a better idea of whether or not you even need fertilizer.

5. What Crops Didn’t Do Well?

Make a note of which crops were a bust last year. Now is the time to look at what went wrong to prevent the same thing this year.

Was the location wrong – too much shade or sun, crowded out by a larger plant, etc.? If it was a plant with support, would a different support system work better, for instance, espalier tomatoes instead of the Florida Weave? Was watering or drought an issue? What can you do differently to mitigate the problem? Or was it the variety? Do you want something with a better yield or flavor? Make a plan now.

6. I Wish We Had Planted More_______

This is a practical question, especially if you preserve all or part of your harvest. Sometimes it’s hard to judge how much of one crop you’ll want at the beginning of the year. But boy, you sure notice when you find yourself heading to the supermarket to purchase produce in July because you didn’t plant enough of something. And you don’t want to run out of homemade tomato juice when it’s only December.

7. I’m Done Growing _______

Alternatively, you may find crops you don’t wish to grow this year or ever again. The sweetheart and I grew cucamelons for a couple of years but finally admitted to one another last year that we weren’t all that chuffed about their flavor.

Maybe you’ve been struggling to grow a certain crop and are unwilling to put in the effort or commit the garden space to another lackluster harvest. I’m looking at you, cauliflower.

There’s nothing wrong with saving that space for something else and hitting up the local farmer’s market for the things you don’t want to bother with.

8. Did I Utilize the Space Well?

Did you have enough room to grow everything you wanted last year? Did the garden feel overcrowded once all the plants were mature, or was there a lot of unused space? Were the paths wide enough? Do we need to expand the garden this year, or could a different growing method, like square foot gardening or interplanting of different species, utilize our space better?

How did you do with intermittent planting? Were there times when portions of the garden were empty? Can I plant cool-season and warm-season crops better, so I’m not left with bare soil (not a good thing) during certain times?

9. Did We Have Enough Crops When We Wanted Them?

Some crops, like beans, can be succession planted to harvest over a longer stretch rather than all at once. Think about these types of crops and how you use them. Do I need several plantings over several weeks, so I’m not hit with a huge harvest all at once? Or are there crops that I should plant all at once to make canning and preserving easier? Perhaps a bit of both for fresh eating and preserving?

10. I Wish ______ Was Easier This Year

Was watering a hassle? Were the weeds unbearable? If something is easy to do, you’re more likely to stick with it. Take a look at the garden chores last year that were a real…chore, and look into ways to make them easier.

For instance, watering has always been a pain. We use a soaker hose set up, but we would often turn it on, get busy with something else, and forget it was on for several hours. My sweetheart invested in a B-Hyve Smart Hose Faucet Timer last year. Suddenly, watering was as easy as tapping a button on the app. The water turned on for a set time, and then the hose would shut off. Voila – no more wasted water and no worrying about watering while we were away.

11. Was Working in the Garden Comfortable Last Year?

Look, I am not afraid to admit I have reached the age where gardening takes its toll. Gardening should be enjoyable. If it isn’t, what needs to change this year? Do you need to ditch that old, paper-thin knee pad and upgrade to something thicker and cushier? (Your knees will thank you; ask me how I know.) Was the sun a constant bother; in your eyes or on the back of your neck? Invest in an extra large, floppy gardening hat and a neck gaiter. Is getting up after you’ve been on the ground difficult? Perhaps it’s time to look into some tall raised beds.

One of the smartest things I did last year to make gardening more comfortable was to invest in a weatherproof outdoor box that I kept in the garden.

I put my kneeling pad, hand tools, neem oil spray, sunscreen, gardening gloves, a notepad and pen, fertilizer and twine inside. It saved me many back-and-forth trips to the house or the workshop. Plus, it was a perfect spot to sit, sip iced tea, and admire my handy work whenever I needed a breather.

12. I’m Super Excited to Try ______ This Year

You know that thing you’ve been looking forward to all winter long? Like that new tomato you found on Rareseeds.com, training zucchini to grow staked, finally going no-dig, or growing an all-purple vegetable garden, now is the time to get planning. What do you need to purchase? Do I have to change anything about my existing setup? Should I enlist some help or ask for advice?

That wasn’t so bad now. Condense your notes into a list of items you need to purchase, a pre-season to-do list and a final list of any other questions you need to answer or further research you need to do. You are well on your way to a successful growing season, my friend.

The post 12 Things to Ask About Last Year Before You Plan Your Garden appeared first on Rural Sprout.

When it rains, it pours. So much so that heavy rainfall flows quickly off of roofs and onto some form of paved surface, occasionally with unintended consequences.

With the installation of a rain garden in the right place, you can reduce runoff from your property in a natural way. Besides, a well-maintained rain garden has curb appeal too, so it’s a bonus for any homeowner.

A rain garden can also become a shelter for birds or a paradise for pollinators. With the proper selection of plants, you can even help to filter out pollutants as the water flows on its way.

Sound good? Keep reading as you scroll through this article on where and how you can design a rain garden in your own back- or front yard.

What Is A Rain Garden?

A rain garden is a collection of shrubs, perennials, grasses and flowers which are generally planted in a small depression. They are specially designed to soak in extra rainwater runoff from hard surfaces such as roofs, patios or driveways.

You might think that having to do with rain, your garden may be wet. That’s not the case at all. Quite contrarily, rain gardens are dry most of the time. Unlike a water garden, there will be no standing water in the form of a pond. Though there are 13 good reasons to install a pond or water feature if you have the space for it.

So, there is no need to worry about mosquitoes at all.

The purpose of a rain garden is for nature to fill it (little to no irrigation should be needed) with a few inches of rain after a storm.

This water will then slowly filter into the soil rather than sploshing its way to a storm drain.

Compared to a green patch of lawn, a rain garden allows about 30% more water to be filtered through the soil.

Think about a clear-cut patch of missing forest versus a standing lot of mature trees. In a storm, you know where the landslides are more likely to occur; in the former.

Everywhere erosion is a factor, trees and ground covers should be planted. Even in areas where erosion is less likely, the ground still finds a way to be covered. Best of all is when you get to choose the plants that go in it.

A rain garden is similar to a bioswale in that it works with excess rainwater. However, a bioswale is specifically designed to slow down rainwater by using low-lying land and encouraging that water to follow a curved or linear path. Whereas a rain garden is designed to capture and store excess water in a basin.

Benefits of a rain garden:

• rainfall doesn’t head directly into storm drains; instead, part of it is filtered back into the ground, replenishing local water sources and aquifers along the way.
• gives an upgrade to the exterior of your home, at the same time bringing more beauty to the entire neighborhood.
• helps to protect people downhill from being flooded.
• rain gardens also help to protect creeks, ponds and larger bodies of water, such as lakes, from toxic “urban” stormwater. Think about all the chemicals that get washed away with the rain: lawn fertilizers and garden pesticides, an array of pollutants from motor vehicles and a slew of other modern and harmful substances.

While it may not feel as if your single backyard effort is enough, it is a great contribution. Especially when combined with the efforts of others, working collectively to enhance environmental benefits for everyone.

You might also be wondering if it is expensive or if it requires a fair share of maintenance.

Let me quell your fears on both accounts.

A rain garden takes minimal maintenance once it’s established. At first, there is planting. Then comes watering and weeding. These chores will quickly taper down to regular yearly maintenance.

As far as costs are concerned, it will cost as much to install as you put into it. The largest price will be the purchase of plants. However, you may be able to find some plants for free, or you could relocate native plants from friends and neighbors.

How Big Should a Rain Garden Be?

A typical rain garden measures from 100 to 300 square feet.

If it’s smaller than that, you lose out on plant diversity.

To make it any larger is not only costly but also entails a lot more digging. It all depends on the size of your property and how it fits into the landscape.

Where To Install a Rain Garden?

Rain gardens usually feature in one of two places: right next to the house-garage-driveway or at the edge of the lawn on the lowest-lying side of your property.

Here are a few tips to help find the best placement for your rain garden:

• avoid placing it over a functioning septic system.
• refrain from placing it where water already accumulates, this is showing you where drainage is already slow.
• give a wide berth to large trees, preferably placing your rain garden in full sun. Partial shade is tolerable but less than ideal.
• install a rain garden several feet from the house, at least 10′, so as not to disturb the foundation.
• next to a patio or an often-used outdoor space is ideal.

Once you’ve discovered the best location, think about the shape of the rain garden. Ovals, crescent and kidney shapes are preferred over rectangles and squares. They are longer than they are wide and are positioned perpendicular to the slope of the land to catch the maximum amount of water falling from the sky.

Next comes calculating how deep your rain garden should be.

Calculating the Deepness of a Rain Garden

Here’s where the design process starts to get a bit more complex. To help you out, I’ve discovered a downloadable PDF from the Department of Natural Resources in Wisconsin that can help you with all the finer details. Find the Rain Gardens Guide here. It includes plenty of photos if you’re more of a visual person.

In short, you’ll want your rain garden to be between four and eight inches deep.

No matter how deep you dig, the edges around it must remain level from the uphill to the downhill side. A slope of 4-11% is ideal. Any more than a 12% slope and you may want to find a different site for your rain garden.

As a guideline, for a slope of less than 4%, you’ll only need to dig 3-5″ deep.

For a slope of 5-7%, your rain garden should be dug 6-7″ deep. And for a slope of greater than 8%, that will require about 8″ of digging.

In addition to the math you’ll be doing, it’s also good to know what kind of soil you are working with. Is it sandy, silty, or slippery clay?

Sandy soils are naturally draining, making them ideal for a rain garden, whereas heavy clay soils will need some modification to make them more effective.

Digging Your Rain Garden

Before digging, you need to make sure that the site is not situated over any utilities. Take responsibility and always contact a local diggers hotline before moving a shovelful of soil around.

What you want to achieve with your rain garden is a “ponding” area that is completely level on the bottom. This needs to take into account the slope of the land.

For simplicity’s sake, take a string and multiple stakes to mark the outside of your rain garden, taking note that the berm will be outside the marked area. You should always start digging on the uphill side of the plot, digging down to the correct number of inches you calculated above. Use that excess soil to create a berm on the outside of the string.

Try to make the bottom as level as possible, raking it smooth when necessary but never compressing it.

Adding a berm to your rain garden.

The sole purpose of a berm is to keep the excess rainwater in the ponding area until it can permeate into the ground.

If you are creating a rain garden on a flatter surface, you’ll probably have enough soil from digging your garden to form a berm. However, larger rain gardens with steeper slopes may require soil to be brought in to finish the job.

Think of the berm as a dam, which helps retain the water. In most cases, it needn’t be more than a foot wide, extending the length of the lower part of the garden. You’ll also want to bring some of it uphill on the slope to contain runoff from the sides.

As you construct this, be sure it is well compacted to help ward off erosion.

Very steep slopes may entail the use of stones to prevent erosion.

Plants That Thrive In a Rain Garden

Form and function are both essential features of your backyard. It goes without saying then that if your garden is pretty, you’ll spend more time in or around it. The same rings true for your vegetable garden.

So, in order to have a beautiful rain garden, you’ll want to include plants that you find pleasing to your eye.

Here are a few tips on making an appealing rain garden that not only functions but adds beauty as well:

• select a variety of native plants which bloom at different times, as well as have diverse textures and shapes.
• add wetland sedges and grasses for visual interest.
• use landscaping design to your advantage; plant in clumps of three to seven.
• don’t plant too close together; allow room for each species to come to maturity.
• make sure that each plant you select has its sunlight requirements fulfilled.

Native plants are among the best choices for rain gardens because they are naturally hardier than exotics. They can withstand harsher growing conditions, are more drought tolerant and tend to have a deeper root system (enhances soil infiltration), which is, of course, a great benefit to a rain garden.

Local nurseries and landscaping companies may already have a list of native plants on hand. It’s worth an ask and a look around to get that information to find out what’s native in your area.

A good starter selection of plants for your rain garden:

1. Bee Balm or Bergamot (Monarda)

A beautiful member of the mint family that grows from 2 to 4 feet tall. Can be grown for privacy, for pollinators or for a nourishing herbal tea.

2. Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii)

Native grasses are an essential part of a rain garden, given that their roots reach deep into the soil. Big bluestem roots may reach a depth of 5-8 feet, plus they provide winter interest in the landscape.

3. Blue Vervain (Verbena hastata)

Plants in a rain garden need to tolerate wet soil; blue vervain is one of them; it’s also an important source of food for birds and pollinators later in the season.

4. Bottlebrush Sedge (Carex comosa)

Sedges are known for their ability to tolerate moist soil, this one is perfect for both rain and water gardens.

5. Fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium)

A great plant for sandy soil (dislikes clay soils), which grows tall (up to six feet) in a sunny location. It can be persistent in the garden. However, it’s a beautiful host plant for several moth species.

6. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)

An easy-to-grow indigenous species of grass with roots reaching five feet into the soil makes it a prime candidate for a rain garden.

7. Meadow Blazing Star (Liatris ligulistylis)

Whereas milkweed is an important host plant for eggs and caterpillars of the Monarch kind, meadow blazing stars provide nectar during the fall migration.

8. Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)

Works best on the sunny side and upper edges of a rain garden. Makes wonderful companion plants with coneflowers, black-eyed susan and phlox.

9. Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

For the slopes of a rain garden, look no further than purple coneflowers; besides being attractive, they also thrive in poor soils.

10. Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)

Perhaps the most spectacular flower in your garden will be this one, which also attracts pollinators such as hummingbirds, butterflies and hawk moths.

11. Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum biflorum)

If your rain garden has some shade, there are a few plants for that too. Bonus points for this one tolerating wet soils.

12. Smooth Blue Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve)

Flowers with a later bloom time are often added to rain gardens for visual appeal. Blue asters produce showy flowers from August to October. They are a host plant for the pearl crescent butterfly.

13. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)

Switchgrass is a perennial warm-season bunchgrass capable of withstanding long periods of drought. It’s resistant to many pests and diseases.

14. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum)

Combines well with other shade-loving perennials such as Solomon’s seal, ferns, common mayapple and woodland phlox.

This list is short, so don’t limit your rain garden to this list of plants alone. Do some more research and find out what’s native in your neck of the woods.

Related reading: 20 Plants To Grow In Your Easy-to-Manage Wildflower Garden

Winter Maintenance of Your Rain Garden

When colder weather comes around, it’s time to make sure that your rain garden is ready for a much-deserved rest.

For the most part, it’s like taking care of any other backyard space. You’ll want to pull up any stubborn weeds, at the same time, check for gaps in the mulch. While it may be tempting to put your pruners to work, it’s best at this time to only snip off dead or diseased branches. Save the pruning for the deeper cold of winter.

Make sure to give your rain garden a little extra attention from late October through early December.

• adjust mulch depth to approximately 3″ for the best water retention.
• prune back and divide perennials if needed, and share extra plants with friends and neighbors.
• leave the seeds on native plants till spring – they may be a winter source of food for wildlife.
• remove leaves from the ponding area, making a leaf mold further away.
• check for potential erosion, correcting that if necessary.

Other than that, all your garden needs is some patience on your part to allow it to become established. Give it two years or more to turn into a fantastic rainwater filtering garden. You’ll be glad you did.

If you have other goals, such as being able to save that precious rainwater, you won’t want to miss out on this article: How to Set Up a Rainwater Collection System & 8 DIY Ideas

The post How To Start A Rain Garden + 14 Best Plants To Put In It appeared first on Rural Sprout.

It happens every summer. No matter how much new seed you put down or how often you water, there will come a point where your lush green lawn turns into a crunchy brown landscape.

Where once you walked barefoot on dewy grass, you’re now careful to put your shoes on before venturing outside.

Summer temperatures are increasing for longer periods with each passing year. It’s no surprise then that your lawn is more often scorched grass than a soft, green yard.

Along with these soaring temperatures, we’re experiencing longer stretches without rain. Municipalities all over the country ration water during the summer. They impose bans on washing cars and using sprinklers, making it even harder to maintain a green lawn.

Have you ever stopped to think if there might be a better way, an easier way?

Of course, you could let nature take its course, stop mowing altogether and return your lawn to the wild.

Some people do and are rewarded by the scads of wildflowers, birds, bees and butterflies that pop up. And with skyrocketing gas prices, not feeding the lawn mower looks better every day. Plus, you would get that one, two, or three hours back that it takes to mow your lawn each week.

Unfortunately, though, many of us simply don’t have that option.

When I lived in another part of Pennsylvania, I remember coming home one evening to a freshly mown lawn, and a citation stuck on my door. The borough charged me a fine for letting my grass get too long and warned that the next time the borough had to mow it, the fine would double. Sheesh!

Municipality rules or strict HOAs can often stand in the way of any attempts to rewild a lawn in town.

But you have another excellent option that will keep the city council happy, save water, require no mowing, and still look great – creeping thyme.

Thyme? As in the stuff I put on my roast chicken?

Yes, that thyme, or at least a variety of it.

Xeriscaping

Every year, more fed-up yard warriors turn to xeriscaping out of a desire to conserve time and water. Xeriscaping is the use of drought-tolerant plants (most require little or no irrigation to survive) in landscapes. Creeping thyme is one of the more popular ground-covers used in xeriscaping, and it’s not hard to see why.

Benefits of Creeping Thyme as a Ground Cover

• It’s creeping, which means it will spread and fill in your lawn when left to its own devices.
• Creeping thyme is also drought-resistant, so your yard will keep plugging along if you get long stretches without any rain.
• It takes much less water to establish and continue to grow thyme. As anyone who has ever planted grass seed knows, it takes tons of consistent watering for it to take and spread.
• Creeping thyme will outcompete other plants for nutrients and water, choking out weeds that would otherwise look unsightly.
• Like turf, creeping thyme can handle foot traffic, making it an ideal replacement.
• Creeping thyme grows low to the ground, so you don’t have to mow it. (Most varieties don’t reach over 4”.) Although, if you prefer, you can mow once any flowers have died off.
• Most creeping thyme varieties flower, making it a pollinator-friendly turf replacement. Gardeners will enjoy the benefits of having more pollinators around.
• You can eat your lawn.
• And it smells so much nicer than grass. People love to wax on poetically about the smell of freshly cut grass. But I’ll bet they’ve never walked across a sunbaked lawn of creeping thyme.

What Creeping Thyme Varieties Work Best?

There are around 300 cultivars of thyme, and many of them are creeping varieties. Here are a few suggestions for thyme that works best as a ground cover.

Red Creeping Thyme – This is by far the most popular thyme variety used for creeping lawns.

Elfin Thyme – one of the tiniest thymes, Elfin thyme grows slowly, which makes it perfect for planting around areas you don’t want completely covered with thyme, such as stepping stones and walkways.

Hal’s Woolly Thyme – quick-growing creeping thyme that can handle foot traffic and will make for a wonderful lawn.

Of course, there are plenty more varieties to consider before choosing one. It’s best to reach out to a local landscaper for advice on what varieties suit your area best.

Getting Rid of Your Existing Turf

Replacing your existing turf with thyme is no picnic. It requires equal measures of patience and hard work. And purchasing enough thyme plugs to fill in your yard can be expensive. For this reason, you may want to start with a small portion of your yard. You can then choose to expand this area with each passing season.

You need to remove the existing turf by digging it up or killing off the grass. Neither option is easy but will be well worth it when you’re enjoying your summer without worrying about mowing the lawn.

The easiest way of getting rid of your existing turf is less labor-intensive but requires the most patience.

Lay down layers of cardboard or newspaper and then mulch heavily. Water these layers with a hose until they’re completely soaked, then weigh them down with rocks, bricks or pavers.

It will take an entire season for the grass to die underneath your “lasagna” layers, but by next spring, all you need to do is poke holes through any remaining newspaper and plant your thyme plugs.

Leaving the newspaper or cardboard in place to continue to break down acts as a weed barrier, allowing your new thyme plants to get established without competition from weeds.

You’ll need to water your thyme regularly until it begins to grow and spread. Usually, by the second season, you will no longer need to water your thyme, and it will begin to spread much quicker.

To Mow or Not to Mow

After a couple of seasons, your thyme will be a thick, fragrant carpet. Some, but not all, creeping thymes flower. You may choose to mow your thyme once it has finished flowering. Waiting until after the flowers die back allows bees and butterflies access to the pollen. It also assists with self-seeding the soil with thyme seeds from the flowers.

Reasons Why a Creeping Thyme Lawn May Not Be Right for You

Before you run out to your local landscapers to start ordering thyme plugs, take a moment to think about where you live and the area you want to convert with xeriscaping.

• Thyme is a hardy perennial but won’t make it through the winter in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 and lower. If you’re in Zone 4 through 10, you’re good to go.
• If you have an especially shady lawn, creeping thyme may not be the best option. Thyme loves the sun and needs between 4-6 hours of direct sun each day to keep from getting leggy.
• Thyme is also susceptible to root rot, so if your lawn has drainage issues or remains soggy after rain, you may end up losing your thyme.

This wonderfully fragrant herb offers a great solution to those looking to minimize their lawn’s environmental impact. And yes, even though it is a large investment of time and money upfront, you’ll enjoy your low-maintenance lawn for years to come.

The post Reap The Benefits Of A Creeping Thyme Lawn appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Row covers are useful items to have in your garden. You could, of course, buy a row cover. But why do that when you can make your own, using branches from your property and a little natural twine?

In this article, I’ll show you how you can make your own row cover frame from branches.

This is a great alternative to all those articles out there that show you how to make one with plastic piping. Using branches rather than reclaimed plastic piping is great for those who want a more natural and eco-friendly solution. If you’re trying to reduce plastic use, this is a great simple project for you. 

The Benefits of a Row Cover

Before we delve into the process of making a row cover frame, let’s take a quick look at why we may want one in the first place.

A row cover can be used to:

• Extend your growing season so you can grow early in the season and towards the end of the year. Perhaps even to allow you to grow food all winter long. 
• Grow more tender or heat-loving plants in a cooler temperate climate.
• Provide shade cover in summer in hotter climes. 
• Protect plants (and soil) from heavy rain and extreme weather events.
• Protect plants from a range of different pests.

When and How To Use a Row Cover

How and when you plan to use your row cover will also have a bearing on the exact design you use. A row cover for use in winter, for example, will usually have to be a lot sturdier and stronger. While one used only for shorter periods during the spring and summer months can generally be of much lighter construction.

Using a Row Cover in Spring

In spring, placing a row cover with a clear or sheer covering over your growing areas allows you to warm an area for planting. As soon as the weather begins to warm, using a row cover allows you to transplant seedlings from indoors, or from a greenhouse sooner. You can transplant seedlings into a covered area like this at least a couple of weeks earlier than you could if you were growing them outdoors without any protection. 

Using a Row Cover in Summer

A row cover will also continue to protect your plants from pests over the summer months. Mesh or chicken wire could be used to cover the structure and provide pest protection. 

Keep in mind that row covers for use in summer may need to be somewhat larger. It will likely have to be big enough to accommodate fully mature plants. 

Different covers can be used on summer row covers. A clear or sheer cover can give a little extra heat to warmth-loving plants that cannot usually be grown outdoors in your area. While a somewhat opaque covering can exclude sunlight and provide shade. This can stop plants from bolting in hot conditions and help conserve water by reducing evaporation. 

Using a Row Cover in Fall

In the fall, a row cover can be employed once more to provide extra protection against the coming cold. Summer crops like tomatoes that are still fruiting, for example, can be covered in order to prolong the harvesting period. Covering your crops can help you ripen green tomatoes, so you get a higher yield overall before the winter arrives. 

Using a Row Cover in Winter

But with a row cover, the start of winter doesn’t necessarily mean the end of outdoor gardening. A row cover can allow you to create a sheltered environment for hardy crops. It allows you to overwinter a range of plants to give you food from your garden all winter long. 

For example, you might grow some green winter vegetables like Brussels sprouts, cabbages and kale without fear that they will be damaged by snow or winter storms. Depending on where you live, you might also be able to overwinter root crops, like leeks, and onions, as well as autumn planting varieties of fava beans and peas. 

Which Types of Wood To Use

One of the great things about this project is that it can easily be adapted to make use of whatever branches you have. A wide range of branches, from different trees or shrubs can be used.

Longer, bendier, more pliable branches can be bent into curved shapes to make a low hoop-house or tunnel-style row cover. While shorter and less flexible branches can be shaped to form low rectangular or sturdier A-frame structures.

Of course, thicker branches will be more suitable for a heavier row cover frame for fall and winter use. While thinner branches will be perfect for a lightweight spring or summer structure.

In the instructions towards the end of this article, you will discover a step-by-step guide to creating a hoop-house type row cover frame from branches. But the idea can be adapted to make different designs depending on what you can find around you.

Deciding on a Shape for Your Row Cover

Which shape you decide on will largely be dictated by the materials that are readily available to you. It is always better to make use of what you have and shape your plans around that.

Fit your plans to available materials, rather than the other way round.

Of course, there may also be practical considerations to take into account. For example, if you plan to use your row cover in winter, and get snow where you live, a flat top structure won’t be practical. A curving or slope-sided frame will make it easier for the snow to slip off.

Deciding The Dimensions of Your Row Cover

While we are referring to one of these structures as a ‘row cover’, it need not necessarily be long and thin to cover a row of plants. It could be made in a range of shapes and sizes, to suit your own garden beds or growing areas.

I made a hoop frame to cover a rectangular garden bed. But you may choose to make a square frame or a low, teepee-like structure for a circular bed. The ideas in this article can be adapted to create frames in a range of different sizes, as well as shapes.

Begin by measuring the area you wish to cover, then adapt and create plans based on your requirements, and the materials that are available.

How To Make Your Row Cover

Materials:

To make your row cover you will need:

• Branches:
• Source three long, straight branches that will run the length of the structure.
• Find three (or more) bendy branches, that can be bent into semi-circles to form the arches of the structure. (Be sure to choose branches long enough to create a tunnel of the required height. Remember that this design involves burying the first couple of inches of each end of the branch in the soil. Take that into account when choosing your branches.)

Tip: If you cannot find branches that are long enough or quite bendy enough, you could also use two somewhat bendy branches to form each arch.

• Select a cross-brace long enough to go across close to the base of each arch and hold them in place. (One for each of the three or more arches.) 

Note: these are not necessarily required if you don’t plan to move the structure, as the soil should hold the arch ends in place. But creating these cross braces will allow you to move the structure later if you wish.

• Shears or secateurs (or a saw for thicker branches) to cut them to the required lengths.
• Natural twine
• Scissors or something else to cut the twine.

Method:

Here are my instructions for creating a tunnel style row cover frame for your garden:

• Take one of the bendy branches and push the ends into the edges of your growing area.

• Using your twine, tie a cross brace between the two bottom ends of your arch, close to the ground. Secure it tightly, making sure that the ends of the arch are vertical and the center has a nice curve to it.

• Repeat this process with the rest of your arches, positioning them at regular intervals along the bed that you wish to cover. Make sure all the arch ends are spaced at the same width as the first one, and that the ends of the arches are stuck at least a couple of inches into the ground. (Don’t worry if your arches won’t stand upright on their own at this stage. You will be fastening them together shortly.)

• Take one of your long, straight branches and tie it securely to the center top of each arch.

• Next, take the other two long straight branches and tie these close to the bases of the arches along either side, just above ground level. 

The structure should now be secure enough to hold whichever cover you choose. It should also be sturdy enough to move out of the way when no longer required. The frame can be stored, for example, after spring is done, then brought back out and placed on the bed again in the fall.

Choosing a Cover For Your Branch Structure

Now that you have made your row cover frame from branches, all that remains is to choose a cover for the structure. Here are a few different options to consider:

To keep things as eco-friendly as possible, if you do use plastic, you should use reclaimed materials rather than buying your cover material new. For example, you might use:

• Reclaimed plastic sheeting (for example, from an old polytunnel). Check online to see if anyone is giving away plastic from a torn hoop house or greenhouse online, for example.
• Bubble wrap from parcels you have received through the post.
• Nylon and other synthetic fabrics from an old tent (such as an old inner sheet or fly netting).
• Old de-tangled fishing nets. (Which you might even find on a local shoreline.)

Reclaimed fabrics could also be put to good use. For example, you might use:

• Old net curtains.
• Old bed sheets.
• Old clothing sown together to make larger sheets. 

To keep off pests but allow plenty of light and air in, you can choose to use a reclaimed metal mesh. (Sourced, for example, from old fencing, etc..)

These are just a few ideas to consider to cover your new creation. Whichever cover you choose, you should find that your branch row cover frame is a useful and versatile addition to your garden. 

The post How To Make a Row Cover Frame From Branches appeared first on Rural Sprout.

When it comes to building a raised garden bed, the possibilities are many.

Raised beds can take on countless shapes, sizes, layouts, and materials. From wood, metal, stone, and plastic to wine bottles, dressers, animal troughs, canoes, and cardboard boxes, there’s no shortage of creative ways people have dreamed up to garden above ground.

As it so often goes, the more expensive the material you use to build your raised beds, the more durable and long-lasting it tends to be. Still, you can find high quality materials for a fraction of the cost by upcycling, reclaiming, and scavenging up your building supplies.

Whether you rustle up your materials or simply purchase them from a store, not all raised bed materials are equally up to the task.

8 Best Raised Bed Materials

A good raised bed material should be durable, easy to work with, and safe to use around people, plants, and soil. It doesn’t hurt if it’s easy on the eyes, too.

Other things to consider before landing on a raised bed material include the expense, its availability in your region, how the material will perform in your specific climate, and if you’d prefer a permanent structure or something that can be moved around.

Wood

The traditional raised bed building material is wood, and for good reason. Wood results in an attractive raised bed that will blend in perfectly with the natural garden setting.

It’s perhaps the most versatile too – wood can be easily cut to size and requires only the most rudimentary of building skills to throw it together.

There are endless design options when working with wood. Wooden raised beds can be made to any size, height, and shape to fit into your garden landscape. Build the classic 6’ x 4’ rectangular grow box. Or construct elevated beds and keyhole beds for better accessibility. Cascading tiered frames and corner beds create beautiful focal points that keep things visually interesting.

Untreated Lumber

Milled wood planks are sturdy and strong and will usually last several years before they start to deteriorate. But they will rot away, eventually.

Use naturally rot-resistant wood like cedar and cypress and seal them prior to construction for the longest lasting wooden raised beds.

Raw Wood

Wood logs, branches, and sticks offer a wonderfully rustic alternative to wooden boards, and you can often find them for next to nothing in cost.

Raw timber scavenged locally is also probably one of the most environmentally-friendly ways to source wood building supplies.

Wooden logs and branches can be piled up to create the frame or arranged vertically around the perimeter. Another option is to weave long and flexible branches into wattle fence to contain your raised garden soil.

Masonry

Masonry, like natural stone and brick, are excellent raised bed materials that will last pretty much forever.

Great for both informal and formal garden settings, masonry will create solid and durable frame that is practically maintenance-free. These materials can take on numerous shapes and forms and are particularly fantastic for curved and contoured walls that hug meandering pathways.

In temperate climates, masonry raised beds can help extend the growing season. Acting as a heat sink, stonework will absorb heat from the sun during the day and release the built-up warmth into the soil at night.

That said, masonry can be quite expensive when you need large quantities. It’s heavy and can be difficult to work with.

If you want to build deep raised beds, you may need to use mortar or cement to hold it all together, which makes the frame a permanent part of the hardscape.

Natural Stone

Granite, sandstone, limestone, fieldstone, flagstone, slate, basalt, and cobblestone are just some of the options for natural stone.

These stones formed millions of years ago and their composition and appearance depends on what minerals happened to be nearby at the time. For example, granite is a blend of quartz, feldspar, and plagioclase, while limestone is mainly made up of calcite and aragonite.

The combination of minerals can result in a spectacular array of colors and patterns. Some natural stones may be multicolored, mottled, or sparkly. Others have smooth, muted, and earthy tones.

Stone is available in its natural irregular shape or pre-cut into blocks for easier stacking.

Brick

Bricks are typically made from clay and come in all sorts of colors – from numerous shades of red to grey, blue, yellow, and cream-colored.

Because of their uniform size, it’s easy to calculate exactly how many bricks you will need for your raised bed build.

Raised beds made from brickwork can be stacked horizontally in an interlocking fashion or slanted for a sawtooth style edge.

Using reclaimed bricks in the garden is much better for the environment (as well as your pocketbook). Your local Habitat for Humanity can be a wonderful source of salvaged building materials like bricks.

Metal

Metal raised beds are becoming increasingly popular among gardeners who love their sleek and modern look. And they’re super durable, lasting 30 years or more.

Like stone, metal is a heat sink that will lengthen your growing season so you can garden earlier in spring and later in fall.

In wet climates, metal raised beds are a great choice since they won’t rot away like wood. To prevent your raised beds from rusting, always use galvanized metals.

Even if you don’t care for the steely appearance of metal raised beds, they can be painted in fun or neutral colors to help soften the look.

Stock Tanks

The simplest option for metallic raised beds is stock tanks. Easy to install with no assembly required, stock tanks are large troughs used to feed farm animals.

These come with either rounded or rectangular edges and can be set down on your chosen gardening spot. Simply add a few drainage holes along the bottom and you’re all set.

Stock tanks can be permanent feature in the garden, but are not too difficult to move around either. This gives a bit more flexibility when your design ideas change along with the seasons.

Corrugated Metal

With a few corrugated metal sheets, metal flashing, deck screws and wood (optional), you can build your own galvanized steel raised bed.

DIYing it will give full control over the finished size, height, and shape of the bed.

There are plenty of tutorials out there – here’s one that sets the metal panels inside a wooden frame.

No Frame

That’s right, you don’t necessarily need a frame to enjoy all the benefits of gardening above the soil line.

Hügelkultur

German for “hill culture”, hügelkultur involves creating mounds from decaying wood, organic matter, and compost.

Once you’re finished layering your materials, the hill will be around 3 feet tall.

Here’s everything you need to know about building a hügelkultur raised bed.  

Mandala Garden

Instead of rows upon rows, mandala gardening creates amazing shapes and patterns in the vegetable patch.

You can make a myriad of designs – keyhole, concentric circles, spirals, and more – by mounding up the soil between pathways.

The result is captivating and utterly unique raised beds that will add lots of visual interest to the surrounding landscape.

5 Raised Bed Materials You Should Never Use

No matter whether you intend to grow food or flowers in your raised garden beds, it’s wise to avoid using materials that will leach toxins into the soil.

Heavy metals and other chemicals will accumulate in soil near the raised bed, but they can also travel much further than the confines of your garden. Toxic contaminants are most mobile in clay, sandy, or wet soils where they can eventually make their way into the water table.

The first rule of gardening really should be: do no harm. Here are the worst raised bed materials that can have a terrible impact on the environment:

Pressure-Treated Wood

Prior to 2004, chromated copper asenate (CCA) was the most widely used wood preservative. It was discontinued over concerns of arsenic exposure, and nowadays alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) is the standard lumber treatment.

Though it’s far less toxic than its forebear, ACQ contains high amounts of copper which can leach into the surrounding soil.

Copper is extremely toxic to fish and aquatic life, and using ACQ pressure-treated lumber to house moist soil increases the likelihood that copper will ooze into the watershed.

MB Pallets

Wood pallets can be a cheap and less wasteful way to build your beds – but beware of those stamped “MB”.

Methyl bromide is a broad spectrum pesticide that’s incredibly harmful to human health. Using wood treated with it in any capacity is ill-advised.

It will readily kill fungi, insects, roundworms, and even rodents. MB pallets off-gas into the atmosphere and directly damage the ozone layer.

In any DIY pallet project, indoors and out, only use pallets stamped with “HT” – or heat treated. This means that the pallets were sterilized for at least 30 minutes at 132°F and above. HT pallets are completely safe for upcycling into raised beds and beyond.

Railroad Ties

Wood railroad ties are treated with creosote, another harsh pesticide that should never be used around humans and plants.

Creosote is a sooty substance that repels termites, fungi, and other pests. It’s made from tar created from coal, oil, and other fossil fuels.

Prolonged and frequent contact with creosote railroad ties is not only dangerous to human health, it will leach out into the soil to the detriment of plants, insects, and small animals.

Cinder Blocks

Cinder blocks made from fly ash – or coal particulates – contain arsenic, lead, mercury, and other heavy metals. Although cinder blocks haven’t been mass produced for around 50 years, you might want to avoid them entirely if you’re using salvaged materials for your raised beds.

Modern-day concrete blocks look identical to the old cinder blocks but are made from Portland cement and other aggregates. Concrete is considered non-toxic and safe to use in the garden. However, the concrete industry has a massive carbon footprint and is one of the globe’s main producers of CO₂.

Old Tires

The effort to upcycle trash into useful things is truly admirable, but some items – like old tires – are often best avoided in the garden.

Tires contain cadmium, lead, and other nasty stuff that could theoretically leach into the soil. Some argue that old tires have already released most toxins during the first year of use on the roads, and that it takes decades for them to degrade.

But the jury’s still out on this one. To date, no scientific studies have been conducted to determine whether old tires will contaminate garden soil. Still, why take the risk? Especially when using raised beds to grow food, it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Once you’ve got your raised beds built and at the ready, next you’ll want to fill them up with rich and healthy soil.

Finally, it’s time to make with the planting – here’s the best fruits and vegetables to grow in raised beds – and the worst!

Read Next:

14 Raised Bed Mistakes Too Many Gardeners Make

The post 8 Best Raised Garden Bed Materials (& 5 You Should Never Use) appeared first on Rural Sprout.