There is something wonderfully charming about old terracotta pots. The mineral stains and verdant green algae creeping along their sides suggest they’ve been in use since Beatrix Potter was writing about Mr. McGregor’s rabbit issues. But who wants to wait that long for their terracotta pots to look aged and broken in?

Thankfully, the internet has provided us with several methods of achieving that wonderful patina in only a matter of weeks.

Or maybe not.

To tell you the truth, I started this article with the intention of showing you, step-by-step, how to age terracotta pots using several popular methods. But as the weeks passed, I was surprised to find that many of these “quick and easy” methods yielded less than desirable results.

Keep reading for the skinny on each method, and I’ll give you my thoughts about the best way to age terracotta pots at the end.

Why Age Terracotta Pots?

There’s a reason old terracotta pots look so great. It’s because they’re a classic gardening staple. Simple, inexpensive, and durable, they’re a great choice for many plants and gardening situations. Of course, using them does come with a bit of a learning curve. But once you know the basics, you’ll discover why seasoned gardeners reach for them time and again.

I suspect our desire to age terracotta pots has much to do with that learning curve. New pots seem to imply that those using them are noobs as well.

Aging terracotta pots gives the impression that the plant and pot have been together for a long time. And that the gardener tending them knows what they’re doing and hasn’t accidentally murdered and replaced the same plant on three previous occasions.

Not that I would know anything about this deceptive plot from personal experience.

The biggest reason I think most of us want to age our terracotta pots is that it looks good. While the classic orange of new terracotta possesses its own beauty, it can be quite garish in some decors. The rough, worn look of old terracotta fits better in certain aesthetics.

Even old broken terracotta pots can be made into something beautiful.

A quick Google search usually yields one of four ways to age terracotta quickly. Let’s look at how to do each one and discuss the pros and cons.

Getting Started

For the methods where you’ll be applying something to the surface, you’ll need to soak the pot for a few hours to a day before you start the aging process. This will help the different ingredients adhere better.

Yogurt

By far, this is the most popular way to turn new terracotta pots into something Mr. McGregor would be proud of. And it’s quite simple to do, if not a little messy.

What you’ll need:

• Plain yogurt (no fruit, unflavored). You want it to be runny, so Greek yogurt is a no-go, but if it’s all you can find, thin it with water.
• Clean, stiff paintbrush

The process:

Using the paintbrush, paint on a thin layer of yogurt. If you notice that you’re taking off yogurt when you pass over it again with the brush, you need to thin it out more. Let the first layer dry slightly and add another layer.

Place the yogurt-covered pot in the shade outside for a week or two to allow it dry and (ahem) age. You’re letting the yogurt rot and get a little funky.

The verdict:

I was quite pleased with the results if not a tad grossed out by the thought that the patina used to be something edible. The pot looks aged and has a nice patina. I can see why this method is so popular. But before you reach for your Chobani, keep reading to the end.

Baking Soda

I found two versions of this one. The first simply used baking soda and water to make a paste; the other used paint. I liked the look of only the baking soda, but it immediately rubbed off when it was dry.

And the other method I found was mixing the baking soda with white paint and brushing it on with a dry brush to get textured, aged streaks.

What you’ll need:

• Baking soda
• Water or paint
• Paintbrush

The process:

Make a thin paste using water and baking soda or water, baking soda and paint. Using a dry, stiff paintbrush, apply the mixture to your pot. Painting in long horizontal strokes and then stippling over top of them gives a nice look.

The verdict:

Unfortunately, water and baking soda alone is a miserable failure as it simply dries and is easily brushed off. One good rainy afternoon washed my entire pot clean.

While the paint and baking soda works, I feel this is less aging and more just painting the pot for a certain look. I wouldn’t look at it and think “aged terracotta”; I would think arts & crafts.

Buttermilk and Moss

Hoo boy, I don’t know about you, but I was the most excited about this one. A moss-covered terracotta pot – does it get any more charming than that?

Let’s be honest; moss growing on your terracotta is the holy grail of “I’ve been doing this for a while” gardening cred. It’s like you’ve got so many great old pots hanging about that you have to look for other ways to use them around the garden.

What you’ll need:

• 1 cup of live moss
• ½ cup of cultured buttermilk
• Water

Be sure to use cultured buttermilk as it will have active bacterial cultures (which the moss like), and it’s slightly acidic (which the moss also like).

Choosing moss

Think about the side of a terracotta pot. When choosing moss, look for a species growing on something similar. Don’t go yanking up moss off a decaying log or from your backyard if you’re hoping for it to grow on the side of your pot. Boulders, rocks, and stone buildings are a good source for a species of moss that should work.

The process:

Now comes the fun part. You get to make a moss milkshake with your blender. Yup.

To make it a little easier on your blender, rough-chop the moss with a knife first.

To your blender add the following:

• 1 cup of roughly chopped moss
• 1 cup of water
• ½ cup of buttermilk

Blend until it looks like…well, something highly unappetizing.

Then using a clean, dry paintbrush, stipple the mixture all over the surface of your pot.

Now comes the hard part.

You need to mist your moss-milkshake-covered pot daily, preferably with distilled water. (The mineral balance in tap water might prevent the moss from growing.) The pot must be kept in the shade in high humidity, someplace warm.

Theoretically, if you do this, moss will grow on the sides of your pot within a few weeks.

The Verdict:

With every article I read, scrounging for details on how to do this successfully, I noticed one thing absent from all of them – a photo of the finished (successful) pot with moss growing on it. When I read comment sections, they all seemed filled with people who had tried and failed. I even found a few websites dedicated to growing moss that said this method was almost always unsuccessful.

But I tried anyway.

And I failed. However, I did manage to grow some pretty cool mold.

Growing moss on a clay pot with buttermilk takes near-perfect conditions and constant attention. And at that point, my advice is to use your pot normally; it will age naturally in the amount of time it takes you to grow moss.

A Bucket & Sunshine

Another popular method is to let your pots sit in a bucketful of water in the sunshine. While this method does take the longest, the reward is a coating of green algae that gives your pottery that “I totes live in rural England, and I have an ancient greenhouse out back where I keep my pots” look.

What you’ll need:

• A five-gallon bucket
• Water
• A sunny spot

The process:

Add your pots to a five-gallon bucket and fill it with water. Place the bucket somewhere that receives direct sun for at least six to eight hours daily. Ignore the bucket entirely for ages letting it get good and manky.

The sun will cause a phenomenon that sends aquarium owners into fits – an algae bloom. The longer you let the pots sit in the water in the sun, the more algae you’ll get. Just ask anyone who’s ever made the mistake of setting up an aquarium near a window.

The verdict:

This is another great method. Once you dump your pots in the bucket, it’s very hands-off. You just check on your pots now and then. And for the tiny amount of actual work involved, the payoff is pretty great.

Chuck Your Pot Into a Decorative Pond

This idea was my own, and it was truly a stroke of genius on my part; it came to me in a flash.

I went to check the progress of my buttermilk and moss pot one afternoon. I had tucked it behind the stone wall next to our tiny decorative pond by the back door because it was a shady and damp spot. From what I could see, all I was growing so far was mold, so I picked up the pot to inspect the other side. In doing so, I dislodged a garter snake.

I scared him. He scared me. The pot went flying.

It landed in our dinky and woefully neglected decorative pond, where it quickly sank below a rather impressive growth of duckweed and settled into a thick, mushy layer of last fall’s leaves. I stared at it for a few moments as the billowing muck slowly settled around it, and the duckweed began to reclaim the surface of the water again, wondering if I wanted to stick my hand in there and fish it out.

“Nope.”

And there it stayed until it was time to write up this article.

What you’ll need:

• A water feature, pond, creek, river or any other body of water you have private access to.
• A garter snake.
• Just kidding.

The process:

Place your terracotta in the water. (No shouts of “Snake!” or flailing arms necessary.) Be patient and let nature do its thing.

Most any water feature will do. (Hmm, should this be reason number 14?) If you’re lucky enough to have access to a larger body of water or a moving stream, you may want to run a length of rope through the drainage holes of the pots and anchor the pots to a rock or something on shore. This will make it easier to fish them out later.

The verdict:

I liked the way this turned out. However, it only works if your pot gets sunshine while it’s in the water. There were also some leftover mossy bits stuck on mine for obvious reasons.

The Biggest Problem With Several of These Methods

Let’s say your yogurt-covered pot turns out perfect, or you painstakingly tend your buttermilk and moss mixture and manage to get moss to grow. You’re still faced with a problem in the end.

One of the most important steps in using terracotta pots is soaking them before you plant anything.

Because of terracotta clay’s porous nature, you need to soak the pot for several hours (days is better) before adding soil and a plant to them.

If you skip this step, the moment you put damp soil in the pot, it will wick all that moisture out of the soil and into the clay, ensuring your pot gets more water than your plant. And it will keep doing this each time you water your plants. Terracotta pots require more frequent watering because of their porous nature.

Now you take your perfectly “aged” pot and soak it in preparation for planting…and all your hard work is undone by the “universal solvent” – water.

(All the mold and buttermilk dissolved from my pond pot within a day or two.)

This is another reason why chucking your pot in a bucket is probably the best way to go. Not only will you get a great patina, but your pot will be thoroughly saturated and ready to use when you remove it.

Ultimately, the best way to get that rustic patina is simply to use your pots. Using them outdoors is even better. And using them to grow a plant outdoors that enjoys a little shade is the best, as you’ll be well on your way to a perfectly aged pot.

Read Next:

8 Things You Need to Know Before Using Terracotta Pots

The post The Best Way To Age Terracotta Pots (& What Doesn’t Work) appeared first on Rural Sprout.

I’m of the mind that there are few landscaping problems that more plants can’t solve.

Need privacy, better drainage, weed displacement, or to cover up an ugly view? Well, there’s a plant for that.

So when vining weeds growing on my neighbor’s side of the fence kept poking through the panels, flowering, and scattering their seeds everywhere, I had to do something to stop the madness.

My planty solution was to build a lattice trellis along the fence and grow some handsome climbing vines. Not only should this do the trick and block encroaching weeds, it will create a beautiful living wall that I’ll enjoy for many years to come.

The Concept

I wanted the lattice trellis to look good and last a long time, but also be super simple to build.

Looking around the internet for tutorials that matched my vision had me coming up empty. I didn’t want a freestanding trellis with concrete footings, or decorative add-ons like cap molding, or for the project to require specialized tools. The overly complex builds just wouldn’t do – and besides, this lattice will be covered in vining plants anyway.

I’ve landed on a design that’s easy to make. The basic idea is to affix the lattice to the fence on top three horizontal lengths of strapping lumber. The wood strips will make sure the structure is sturdy while also keeping the lattice 1.5 inches off the fence. With this bit of space, the twining plants can grow over and under the slats of lattice.

It’s a two-person job that takes an afternoon to put together, and only cost me about $50 in materials.

Materials and Tools:

• (2) 4×8 lattice panels
• (3) 2x2x8 lumber
• Deck screws – 3” long
• Circular saw or hand saw
• Keyhole saw
• Cordless drill
• Measuring tape
• Level
• Pencil
• Scrap lumber for stakes

Step 1: Measuring and Marking

The first thing to do is grab your measuring tape and mark out the placement of the lattice along your fence or wall.

I’ll be using two 4 foot wide lattice panels and orienting them vertically for an 8-foot long lattice.

Figure out where you want to the lattice to be and drive two stakes into the ground to mark the position.

Next, measure the height of the fence and then subtract an inch so the lattice won’t sit directly on the ground.

The strapping will be a bit shorter than the lattice panels on each side. From each stake, measure 6-inches inward and mark these spots with a pencil.

Step 2: Cutting the Lumber to Your Measurements

If your wall or fence is taller than 8 feet, you won’t need to cut your lattice pieces. In my case, the fence is shorter than the panels so the height of each one will need to be cut to size.

Wood lattice is a pretty flimsy material so take care when sawing. I used a keyhole saw to lower the chances of the slats cracking and breaking as they are cut. Placing the lattice face up (with the heads of the staples on top) will make sawing by hand go a bit more smoothly.

Because the strapping is to be 6-inches shorter than the lattice on each side, the lumber will need to be cut to 7-foot lengths. A circular saw makes the task quick and easy but a hand saw would also work.

Step 3: Installing the Strapping

Drill pilot holes along each length of strapping. I started by pre-drilling holes 2-inches from each end and spacing the rest approximately 20-inches apart.

Find the best place to sink your screws on the wall. The fence here has three rails on the opposite side that are the perfect spot to drill into. If you’re installing the lattice trellis on vinyl siding, use the wall studs as your backstop. If it’s brick or concrete, simply space the strapping 12-inches down from top, 12-inches up from the bottom, with the last piece in between.

Place one length of strapping against the fence, 6 inches in from the stake. Drill a screw into one end, but keep it loose.

Use your level to determine the correct angle and then drill in a screw at the opposite end.

Now that it’s level and straight, go ahead and drill in the rest of the screws along the length of the strapping. Tighten up that first screw too.

Repeat until all three lengths of strapping are affixed.

Step 4: Attaching the Lattice Panels

One thing I wish I had known before embarking on this project was to pay closer attention to how the lattice panels were cut back at the lattice-making factory.

Ideally, the sheets of lattice would line up at the seam to create an uninterrupted span of little diamonds across both lattices. My lattice panels, however, were cut with partial edges. When the two panels are put together side-by-side, they look like this:

Although I think the double diamond effect still looks good, I wanted the two panels to appear somewhat seamless. The better route would have been to purchase lattice that had complete diamonds at each edge. Since mine did not, I ended up cutting 2.5” off the long edge of one panel so that the lattice would line up like this:

Once you’re happy with how your lattice looks lined up, it’s time to attach the panels to the strapping.

Using the ground stakes to guide you, keep the lattice panel straight and lifted an inch off the ground. Begin screwing in the first lattice panel, starting at the top.

Don’t overtighten the screws. Keep them a little loose so the lattice slats don’t split under pressure.  

After the screws are in the top rail of strapping, take a step back and make sure the lattice is level and straight before going ahead and drilling in the rest.

With the first panel hung, position the second lattice panel in the same way. Keep the sheets spaced at least a ¼ inch apart. This gap will give the lattice panels room to expand and prevent the sheets from bowing and buckling.

Scatter mulch along the bottom of the trellis to hide the lower gap – and it’s done!

All that’s left to do now is wait for these little morning glory seedlings to rise up and take hold of the lattice.  

The post How to Build a Simple Lattice Trellis for Climbing Plants appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Water and air are essential to all life on earth. The cleaner they are, the healthier and happier we’ll be. That’s something we can all agree on.

While we may not have as much control over the air quality as we’d like, we can all take part in not contributing more to the pollution that currently exists. This applies to air as well as water. Most of you reading this are probably gardeners.

And as people who grow food, you know that fruits and vegetables don’t grow well without water.

The better the water, the finer your crops will be. But what if there isn’t enough clean water each season to irrigate your crops? It’s a topic that needs addressing when each garden season is different, oftentimes with periods of rain followed by extended weeks of drought.

Once you become conscious of how much water is wasted in your home and garden, you’ll be looking for ways to reduce the flow.

Ways to Reduce Water Usage in the Garden

Conserving and reducing the amount of water you use in the garden is easier than you think.

Apply as many ways from the list below and see how much water you can save compared to using previous gardening methods.

1. Choose Native Plants

Water conservation and native plants go hand in hand.

Native plants and grasses are naturally low-water use plants. In part because they’ve adapted over time to local soils and climate. Plus, their deep roots reach far into the soil, where they can gather water in times of drought.

Their deep roots also make them a perfect choice for times of extended rain as they help to stabilize the soil.

2. Install a Rain Garden

By the name alone, you’d think that a rain garden requires rain to flourish. Actually, it’s quite the opposite: rain gardens are dry most of the time.

They’re designed to be able to handle an influx of rain by the means of creating a basin filled with (mostly native) plants. They also help to protect local waterways from being flooded with runoff from homes, roads and driveways in the event of a storm.

To find out if installing a rain garden would work in your backyard, read this article about starting a rain garden to find out more, plus the 14 best plants to put in it.

3. Stop Digging Your Vegetable Garden

I could go on and on about the benefits of no-dig gardens. Oh, wait, I already have, here and here and here.

If you aren’t familiar with the “less work, more to reap” style of gardening, I can only suggest you try it out for a few seasons. One is not enough for the land, or you, to convert to this modern way of gardening. It goes against so many things we’ve been taught about growing food, but it works.

You might ask, how often do you water your no-dig garden?

It varies from season to season. Most years, not at all, or only at the time of planting.

Last summer was different in that it didn’t rain for more than 2 months. Most crops did extremely well with spot watering by hand once a week. Kale was definitely ruler of the garden.

When you stop digging your garden, the soil will retain a lot of moisture. Don’t take my word for it; try it yourself.

Did you know you can apply no-dig gardening practices in your raised beds to reduce water usage too?

4. Mulch, Mulch, Mulch To Reduce Water Usage in the Garden

As above, so below. Now that we’ve mentioned not digging your soil, one of the first things you need to know is that it entails mulching with lots of beautiful mulch.

Mulching not only keeps the weeds at bay, but it also keeps moisture in the soil. Which means you don’t need to water nearly as much.

Even if you’ve tilled your garden, you can still employ the use of mulch around any plant. Tomatoes and squashes, in particular, are fond of a little undercover. A little mulch goes a long way in preventing the soil from heating up and drying out even more.

5. Plant Drought Tolerant Cultivars

Some vegetables are more tolerant of low water conditions and so can skip a watering session or two without harm. They may have deeper roots or specialized leaves to stop water loss.

Lindsay rounds up 75 popular vegetable cultivars to consider for a drought resistant garden.

6. Water at the Right Time of Day

When you are hot and ready for a refreshing summer switchel, the plants are ready for a sip of fresh water too. Right or wrong?

What’s wrong with watering in the afternoon is that the water you give the garden will tend to evaporate rather than getting absorbed into the soil and roots. And that’s a definite waste of good water

The best time of day to water is early morning. Though evening watering has its merits too.

Morning watering prepares the plants with immediate water for the sunny day ahead, whereas evening watering can help cool the soil more effectively. However, you need to be careful with watering in the evening, as water falls on the leaves and close to the roots, which may encourage fungal growth, rot or insect damage.

Read Tracey’s article about Why Is My Garden Dying? if you are unsure of how much water is too much – or too little.

7. Use Drip Irrigation Instead of a Sprinkler

Sprinklers are fun to run through when the summer sun is scorching down, but are they efficient at watering your garden? Not so much. It sometimes happens that the water goes every which way while the wind blows it past your crops. Let’s not even get started on water wasted to evaporation.

Then you need to make up for the insufficient work by hand watering the missed areas. Maybe you should have just started with that in the first place, especially if you have a small garden.

Larger gardens, however, may need a little more work. In a really dry summer, once you’ve put your mulch down, you may still need to irrigate.

Why not use a drip irrigation system instead to reduce water usage?

Most drip irrigation systems are up to 90% efficient at allowing plants to use the water that is applied at the soil level. This, in turn, prevents the leaves and stems from getting wet, which may lead to fungal and bacterial diseases. On the other hand, sprinkler systems range in efficiency from 60-75%. Save a little water here, a little more there, and you are on your way to saving a lot.

8. Reduce Fertilizer Use

To say it plain and simple, fertilizer stimulates the growth of plants. This, in turn, leaves your plants longing for more water – it’s a vicious cycle.

While the addition of fertilizer will result in larger fruits and vegetables, i.e. more to eat, you’ll inevitably lose out on nutrient density, which has been on the decline for several generations now.

That’s not to say don’t apply any fertilizer at all. There are big differences between chemical fertilizers and organic fertilizers.

The decision to grow all organic is a personal one, though with a patch of stinging nettle nearby as a source of “green manure”, you’ll ease into it with no difficulty at all.

Without a bunch of chemical fertilizers to use on your garden crops, the food you grow in your backyard will be far healthier than anything you can buy from the store. Enjoy every bite as you save water for more important things.

9. Collect Rainwater

Oftentimes, in order to make a reduction, it is wise to save a surplus. In the case of gardening, water is always in need, but you often need it more when you don’t have it.

If you’re routinely running into dry gardening conditions, it may be time to start thinking about a rainwater collection system.

When you find that your water bill is getting too high, all you need to do is grab a watering can and dip it into your barrel to water your herbs. In areas where you can collect rainwater, it makes absolute sense to do so. And when you come to realize that 33% to 50% of domestic water use is applied to lawns and gardens each year, you may feel the desire to prevent that good water from being wasted.

Collect it from the sky and use it sparingly. Somehow, this simple act of self-sufficiency feels quite good.

10. Turn Your Lawn into a Meadow

At some point in your life, green-lawn envy may turn into the exact opposite.

Perhaps you want to save the bees or rewild your garden. Maybe you just want to let nature move in and enjoy your backyard as much as you do.

In the case of reducing your water usage, converting existing lawn into a wildflower meadow is an excellent choice. There will be no need for fertilizing, no need for irrigation either. As native plants move in, you’ll have less and less work to do too.

If you aren’t quite ready to dedicate a patch of lawn to wildflowers, you can always choose to mow less often – in favor of the birds and bees. At the very least, to participate in No-Mow May.

It’s been said that allowing your grass to grow 3″ in height will help reduce water usage by decreasing the amount of evaporation. Besides, the pollinators will love it when the flowers are popping up left and right. If you need a path to the garden, simply mow one pass, just enough for a wheelbarrow to get by.

11. Water-Conscious Container Gardening

Container gardening is a wonderful way to grow food if you have a porch or deck, but no access to a patch of soil.

It works just about anywhere, and it’s super easy to get started. You can use plastic pots, ceramic pots, glazed pots, 5-gallon buckets, or whatever container you have on hand.

But, different materials soak up the heat and dry out faster than others. Metal, for instance, heats up quickly, so you’ll be watering those containers more often in a sunny location. In a hot climate, you may want to refrain from using them.

Unglazed terracotta pots lose moisture faster than glazed ones; generally, it’s a good idea to choose the latter. However, a pot-in-pot solution can always be used to keep the decorative pot on the outside and a more water-efficient one on the inside.

When all is said and planted, a good potting soil is always key to keeping your plants roots nice and moist.

Related reading: 8 Things You Need to Know Before Using Terracotta Pots

How to Reduce Water Usage in your Home

I’m not sure everyone checks how much water they actually consume (use) in their home and garden each month. We certainly don’t, as our home doesn’t have a water meter.

Though we do have a rough idea of how much we use in a day, simply because we don’t have running water in our home (no indoor plumbing comes with its perks, especially in winter) – it comes from a faucet outside. We bring the water inside, bucket- by bucketful.

On average, we use about 36 liters of water a day (more on laundry days). That’s less than 10 gallons for a family of three, not including drinking water. We also have a compost toilet, so little water is used there. I’m not saying, by any means, that everyone should live this way, only if you choose to.

Considering that the average person uses 100 gallons of water a day, well, there are places where each and every one of us could probably cut down on our water usage.

Let’s look at a few of them.

12. Collect Greywater

If you are unsure about what greywater is, a great place to start reading about it is here.

In essence, greywater or gray water is water that’s already been used from your sinks, shower, tub, washing machine, etc. It’s already come into contact with soaps, detergents, grease and food. Water from the toilet is considered black water, that which contains feces. The first one can be used in the garden; the second is better off going into a septic or sanitary sewer system.

While greywater can be collected for use in the garden and particularly in orchard or landscape use, it is subject to some restrictions across the states.

To make the collection and use of greywater in your garden a successful one, two things come to mind:

• the use of high-quality biodegradable soaps and cleaners is a must (remember what goes in, must come out)
• and treatment of the greywater is essential (this can be accomplished through the means of biological systems such as sand filters and wetland techniques or direct-use systems).

It may seem complicated at first, but if the pipe fits, wear it.

13. Flushing Fixes

The simple act of flushing the toilet comes with, you guessed it: water usage, a lot of it.

Low-flush toilets use about 1.6 gallons per flush, whereas standard toilets use up to 4 gallons or more. One flush consumes more than you drink in an entire day.

So what can you do about reducing water instead of switching to a compost toilet?

If your toilet is outdated, make the switch to a low-flow toilet. That’s going to cost you, however, both in material and labor.

An easier way to use less on every flush is to put a rock-filled plastic container in the tank. This tutorial about converting any toilet to a low-flush one explains everything.

If this all seems like too much work, move on to the next idea. It’s easier, I promise.

14. Install Efficient Showerheads

Every once in a while, a new showerhead is a good thing to have.

There’s a debate on whether baths or showers are better for you, how often you should take them and at what temperature. Again, that’s a personal decision.

Some people say that baths use more water than showers, but again, that all depends on who is taking the shower. If you are one to stand under a long, hot shower, you may just outdo the bath water consumption after all.

A flow regulator or a water-efficient showerhead can cut down your water usage by thirty percent without taking away the pleasure of standing under a warm waterfall.

15. Wash Dishes and Clothes in a Way That Reduces Water Usage

Most machines are operate efficiently only when full. If you don’t have enough dishes to fill a dishwasher, consider washing them by hand. Even if it uses a little more water, you won’t be using electricity.

Like with dishes, if the washer isn’t full of clothes, it’s still going to fill up with water. There are good and better settings, depending on your make and model, but washing by hand can be just as effective, and may I mention it again: electricity-free. Free as in freedom from the grid. You can do laundry any time of day without making a sound.

Don’t forget “hard on the hands” can also contribute to stronger muscles. If you approach clothes washing from a different standpoint, it’s like free exercise to complement the bending over in the garden.

While you are at it, don’t forget to line-dry your clothes. Outside is best, yet there are inside devices and contraptions that make life easier without the use of a clothes dryer.

16. Check Plumbing for Leaks

Dripping water is still water down the drain. A simple one drip per second wastes more than 3,000 gallons a year.

You’ll want to check all of your inside and outside taps from time to time to prevent this.

You can check out all the gaskets and washers by yourself or hire someone to do it. Plumbers aren’t for emergencies only. It’s not only the sink that can leak; toilets, dishwashers, washing machines, air conditioners, and even the fridge can drip on occasion. Never overload a machine because you are short on time or clothes to wear.

Use all appliances responsibly.

17. Don’t Leave the Water Running

I know it sounds like common sense, but not letting the water run while you brush your teeth or shave is repeated so much that I think it may be going in one ear and out the other.

If you are concerned about water wastage, this one is a no-brainer.

18. Wash your Car With a Bucket and Sponge

Can you wash your car with one bucket of water or two? YouTube seems to think so.

It depends on how dirty your car is in the first place, though it is possible. One bucket of soapy water, the other for rinsing. All you need is some arm muscle and rags.

On the contrary, a typical car wash uses 20-40 gallons.

19. Compost Food Waste Instead of Using the Garbage Disposal

Here’s where it comes full circle; by starting in the kitchen you will find ways to conserve water in the garden.

Take this into account: a single run of the garbage disposal uses 2-5 gallons of water. Already you’ve lost food scraps and potable water in one go.

So, let’s save on water by composting instead. You can do this with a small Bokashi system, or you can go with a larger outdoor setup.

It takes some time for the composting part to happen, but when it does, you’ll have nutritious, water-retaining compost to use in the garden as both a mulch and natural fertilizer. It’s a well-balanced situation to be in. Saving water here, saving water there.

Reducing food waste is also a good start for reducing water usage overall. You can regrow veggies from scraps and learn how to store food properly to prevent spoilage.

What other ways can you think to reduce water usage in your home and garden?

The post 19 Ways To Reduce Water Usage in the Home & Garden appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Polytunnel, hoop house, row cover – whatever you want to call it, they’re dead useful in the garden. There are plenty of benefits to be gained by adding a polytunnel to your gardening space.

They’re surprisingly easy to make, and this one will last forever. If you don’t have one yet, let’s make one. This will be the year you say, “Now I get why everyone uses polytunnels!”

Why You Should Have at Least One Polytunnel In Your Garden

It’s such a simple thing, really, a bunch of hoops stuck in the ground with some sort of sheeting over the top. But they’re more than the sum of their parts, affording protection, bigger yields and longer seasons. I like to think of them as the gardener’s blanket fort.

And yes, I think everyone should have one, even a small one.  

1. Much Cheaper Than a Greenhouse

Most of us would love a greenhouse filled with moss-covered terracotta pots and well-loved gardening implements straight out of a Beatrix Potter story. Unfortunately, it’s not always in the cards. But you can still enjoy the benefits of having your own little “hothouse” by adding a polytunnel to your garden.

2. You Can Move It to Where You Need It

Unlike a greenhouse, you can move a polytunnel. Crop rotation is a natural way to ensure the nutrients in your soil remain balanced and can be replenished based on what you grow there. If you’re planting crops in a different location each year, having a moveable polytunnel makes the process easier.

3. Remove Pests from the Guest List

Japanese Beetles, Colorado Potato Beetles, Imported Cabbageworm, do any of these guys show up and make your growing season a nightmare? Sure, you could mix up all sorts of potions to spray on your vegetables or buy some nasty insecticide to wipe them out. But why go to all that fuss when you can grow your veggies undercover and remove certain pests from the guest list entirely.

4. Protect Your Plants

Even if nibbling insects aren’t a problem, polytunnels can keep rabbits, deer and kids out of your garden. If fencing in your garden isn’t an option, using polytunnels to protect your veg is the next best thing.

5. Extend Your Growing Season

Look, I’ll fess up if you will too. Gardeners are downright competitive. Oh, your prize tomatoes produced two bushels last year? That’s great; mine produced two and a half.

We’re always looking for that extra edge, even if the only person we compete with is ourselves. And getting plants in the ground as early as possible is a great way to make sure you’re the first one with ripe tomatoes. Depending on where you live and what type of poly sheeting you use, you could start your garden a month or two earlier than normal.

That also applies to the other end of the growing season.

There is something downright magical about walking out to the garden in a white, snow-covered landscape and lifting the cover of your tunnel to find dark brown soil and beautiful, crisp lettuce growing.

Pretty great, right? Let’s make a polytunnel that will last you ages. We’ll be skipping the traditional PVC pipes for this one.

Skip the PVC for a Sturdier Frame That’s Better for the Environment

For the longest time, it seemed everyone used PVC pipes as frames for their polytunnels. It’s cheap; it bends easily, and you can find it everywhere – why not?

PVC isn’t great for the environment to begin with, but also, it’s not a great building material for this kind of project. PVC is best reserved for projects where it won’t be exposed to light. Over the course of the season, the PVC becomes brittle from long-term sun exposure. Eventually, it will snap, and your veggie blanket fort will come tumbling down.

When it finally breaks, it will be in lots of sharp plastic shards that are now all over your garden. Yay!

For this project, we wanted something that was much more durable. We chose EMT or electrical metallic tubing, also known as electrical conduit. Normally, it’s used to house electrical wires in buildings.

But it’s also cheap, bends easily, and you can find it everywhere. It’s only about $2 more per 10’ piece than PVC. Not to mention, if you ever decide you don’t want your polytunnel anymore, you can take your EMT to your local scrapyard and get cash for it or recycle it. All in all, it’s a much better alternative to PVC.

How to Make a Polytunnel

EMT comes in 10’ lengths making it the perfect size for polytunnels, whether your rows or raised beds are 4’ or 3’ wide. After the EMT is bent and inserted into the ground, you’re left with the perfect height and plenty of space for tall plants.

Materials

• ½” diameter EMT in 10’ lengths – you will need two pieces, one for each end of your row and one-piece every 4’ of the length of your row. For example, our 16’ long rows needed five pieces total.
• Sheeting – what you choose will depend on where you live, how long you want the sheeting to last and what you want to accomplish.
  • Poly sheeting is better at protecting from cold temperatures as it’s thicker and impermeable, so it’s great for extending the season. But it doesn’t breathe, so you may need to vent your tunnel occasionally if you use it for the entire season.
  • Row cover fabric is lighter, breathable and easier to manipulate. It’s great for keeping out pests. While it does offer some cold protection, it’s not as good a barrier as poly sheeting. Because it’s a fabric, it can also tear.
  • You may wish to use both at different times during the season.
• Sturdy clips – I chose these metal spring clips because they’re much easier to get on and off than other options. You’ll need five clips for each hoop.
• Two bricks or large rocks to hold down the ends of your sheeting.

Bending the Conduit

To form a (mostly) perfect arch, you will need to do some math. Okay, okay, I did it for you.

There are a few different ways to bend conduit, all of which require a tool. You may already have one of these tools, or you may want to build a jig. I’ve made a note about options for sourcing these tools as well.

Conduit Bender

A conduit bender is the most inexpensive option for bending your hoop frames. You can find them in your local hardware store or big box home improvement store, or you can even order one on Amazon. They also require the most elbow grease; although it’s not hard to use them, it’s only in comparison to the other two options.

(Once you have where you will be bending marked out on your EMT, place a mark every 4.2” (3.2” for 3’ wide beds). Use these marks for bending 10 degrees at a time with the conduit bender.)

Tubing Roller

Tubing rollers can make quick work of bending the conduit into the proper arch if you already have one. Even without the right size roller, it can be done if you’re careful.

Hoop Bender Jig

You can purchase a jig specifically for this purpose; they’re pretty easy to find on the internet. You can also make a jig with scraps you already have; it doesn’t have to be fancy to get the job done. Here is a YouTube tutorial showing you how.

Note: Sourcing These Tools

If you only need to bend a few pieces of conduit, it doesn’t make sense to purchase a tool. Unless, of course, you see yourself being able to use it again for other projects in the future.

• Ask family, friends or neighbors if they have a conduit bender or tubing roller; even better if they offer to help you use it.
• Call your local hardware store or equipment rental place and ask about renting the tool for the job. Most of these places rent out oddball hand tools as well as large equipment.
• Check Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist or Freecycle and see if you can find the tool you need second-hand. Alternatively, I have often purchased specific tools new for projects and then resold them in these same outlets. Tools, in general, seem to get snatched up quickly, especially if they’ve only been used once or twice.

Once you’ve bent your hoops, they can be inserted into the ground. You should be able to do this by hand, but a rubber mallet can be helpful if your ground is hard.

After that, you cover the frames with your preferred sheeting material. Make sure you don’t stretch it out too tightly. You want a little give in between hoops so it can flex in the breeze without tearing.

Place five clips on each hoop to hold the sheeting in place snuggly – one at the top of the hoop, one at each base and one on each side about midway between the top and bottom clips.

Fold any excess sheeting on each end and secure it in place with a brick or a rock.

And that’s that. This is one of those projects that will take a couple of hours out of your Saturday, but you’ll have a great setup that you can use year after year.

The post How to Make a Polytunnel that Will Last Forever (& 5 Reasons You Need One) appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Are you tired of planning your garden on paper, only to find it’s a bit more difficult to transfer those neat lines and groups of veggies to the soil?

This simple planting grid is easy to make, lightweight, and packs away neatly for next year. It only takes about thirty minutes to make. And the best part is, it will cost you around $15. Probably less if you already have twine on hand.

Frustration and Swearing are the Mothers of Invention

When it comes time to plant the garden every spring, my palms sweat. You see, I am a perfectionist. I stand at the edge of our 4’x16’ beds, garden plans in hand and know that I’m absolute crap at putting in the ground what I’ve carefully plotted out on graph paper.

It never goes according to plan.

Nothing ever lines up, my rows or squares end up wonky, and I’ve made a mess of things before I know it. I’ve used too much space and do not have enough room for everything I need to plant. Or I plant everything so close together that I have a ton of space leftover and cramped plants.

Last year I tried to map out gridlines with string and landscaping pins, but I ended up in a tangled, sweaty, sweary mess.

Naturally, this was the time my sweetheart found me in the garden. He asked if I needed any help. I said no, I could do it myself. (Did I mention I’m also stubborn, too?) I explained what I was trying to do (with more swearing) and told him what I really needed was a solid grid, nothing too heavy though, that I could lay on top of the soil, plant my seeds and seedlings and then put it away for the season. I didn’t want goofy-looking gridlines to be a permanent fixture in my garden for the summer.  

He helped me up and suggested a trip to the hardware store.

My sweetheart is a Red Green fan and wholeheartedly embodies, “If the women don’t find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.” Except he is handsome and an engineer. He’s very handy to have around.

This is the brilliant grid he came up with for me. It’s just what this lazy perfectionist gardener needed.

We initially made ours 4’ x 16’ as that’s how big our garden beds are, but it was kind of awkward to lift after everything was planted. So, this year, I reassembled it as a 4’ x 4’ square after I realized that one small square was all we needed. (Duh, Trace, the length of your garden beds is divisible by four.) I can flip it over to the next portion of the bed once I’m finished planting. This makes it much easier to use solo.

As most garden beds are usually 4’ wide, this square works for nearly any size garden. However, I’ve also included measurements for a 3’ x 3’ square for 3’ wide beds.

Here’s what you will need to make the grid:

Materials:

• 2 – 10’ lengths of ½” PVC pipe
• 4 – ½” PVC elbows
• Nylon string or heavy-duty twine

Tools:

• Something to cut the PVC pipe with – a bandsaw, hack saw or heavy-duty garden loppers
• Drill with ¼” drill bit
• Measuring tape
• Sharpie
• Large blunt sewing needle
• Scissors

To Make Your Planting Grid:

Measure and cut the PVC pipes into 4 lengths, each 47” long (35” long for 3’ beds). When we attach the elbow fitting, it will make up for the lost inch.

PCV is pretty easy to cut with various tools; use whatever you have on hand.

Measure and make three marks. We found it easiest to lay the pipe next to the measuring tape, centering the 47” long pipe between 48” on the tape, taking into account that it would be ½” shorter on both ends. (36” for 3’ beds) Now mark 12”, 24” and 36” on the pipe. (Mark 12” & 24” for 3’ version.)

Using a drill fitted with a ¼” drill bit, drill holes through the pipe at the markings. You might want to sand off any sharp edges if they’re especially ragged.

Assemble the square will all four lengths and all four elbows. Take care that the holes face inward in the same direction on each pipe, so the string will lie flat.

Using the needle and twine, lace the square to make your grid. Use the diagram below for help. Once you’ve laced the lines in one direction, you’ll need to pop off the nearest elbow and thread the needle through it, so the string lines up again to go in the opposite direction. Cut and tie the twine off securely.

Go plant a neat and tidy garden!

Project Notes:

If you want to make the grid longer to fit a specifically sized bed, and it’s a multiple of four, simply add a ‘T’ at two ends instead of elbows. Now, fit the ‘T’s with another 47” length of pipe, adding more ‘T’s and pipe until you have the correct size, at which you would use the elbows on the end.

But I Don’t Have Those Tools

Most of us have the tools to complete this little project at home. However, if you don’t or don’t want to mess with cutting and drilling, ask an employee at the store where you’re purchasing your materials if they can help you out. I know Home Depot and Lowes usually do this. P.S. It always helps to be super polite when asking.

Pick Up a Used Drill

As someone who went a long time without owning a power drill, I wouldn’t be without it now that I have one. Purchasing a new drill isn’t necessary; mine is second-hand and a beast. Check out Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist for a used power drill.

Yeah, I Know, PVC

I’m not super chuffed that it’s made out of PVC. It’s not the greatest choice for the planet. But it’s also not a piece of equipment that will be sitting out in the sun, leaching chemicals and growing brittle year after year. It sees a few days of use before it’s packed away for next season. I know it will last us forever.

If you want a more earth-friendly building material, consider using EMT conduit (electric metallic tube) and elbows. It’s more expensive, and you’ll need proper tools for cutting and drilling it, but it’s recyclable if you choose not to use it anymore.

The post Make This Easy $15 Planting Grid in Under 30 Minutes appeared first on Rural Sprout.

There’s something uniquely special about trees.

Trees give us cool shade in summertime and spectacular color in fall. They help take the dullness out of the winter landscape and are among the first plants to signal spring is on its way.

But more than this, the slow but steady growth of trees marks the passage of time and many of life’s milestones. Perhaps your favorite tree is the one you climbed as a child or spent countless afternoons beneath its boughs with a book.

It’s no wonder we often form a deep emotional attachment to our trees.

Our trees become such a fixture of the home and garden that it can be hard to see them go. When a tree dies or needs to be cut down, it can vastly alter the look and feel of your landscape and leave some mighty big shoes to fill.

All the more reason to plant more trees!

After a tree is taken down, the stump left behind can be an eyesore and a tripping hazard – and not to mention a somber reminder of your bygone tree.

Stump removal takes a bit of work. You can rent a stump grinder or dig it out by hand. You can even pee on it to rot it away faster.

The path of least resistance, however, would be to leave that tree stump right where it is in the ground. Like subtraction by addition, a plain tree stump can be given renewed purpose as a one-of-a-kind lawn ornament, piece of furniture, or work of art.

So when life hands you a tree stump, it can be an excellent opportunity to let your creativity blossom. Here are 10 fantastic ideas for making an ordinary tree stump into something incredible.

1. Tree Stump Planter

It’s a dull old tree stump one day and a beautiful garden focal point the next!

A tree stump planter – filled with a mix of annuals, spring bulbs, trailing plants, and creeping ground covers – is a super clever way to bring your dead tree stump back into the land of the living.

To make your tree stump into a wooden plant pot, you’ll need to hollow out the center to create a planting nook in the middle of the trunk.

Leaving a couple of inches around the edge to serve as the rim, use a drill or saw to clear away bits of wood from the middle of the stump. You’ll want to make it deep and wide to comfortably house the plants’ roots.

For better drainage, drill some holes along the bottom of the bowl or add an inch or two of gravel.

When you’re satisfied with the size and shape of the planter, fill it up with compost and plant your plants.

Make the tree stump planter an eye-catching statement piece by adding a variety of flowers around the base of the trunk. Here are some gorgeous tree stump planter ideas to inspire your own design.

2. Mossy Tree Stump

If your tree stump is situated in a damp and shady spot where other plants refuse to grow, creating a woodlands look with moss could be the right solution for you.

Live tree mosses are low-maintenance plants that can be purchased by the bag from most plant nurseries. Look for moss species native to your region that grow specifically on trees.

To get moss started on a tree stump, slather wet mud over the surface. Nestle the moss onto the top and sides of the stump to adhere it to the wood, and gently mist the area.

Keep the tree stump moist at first with daily spritzing until the moss is established and starts to colonize new parts of the trunk. Then, simply water your mossy stump at the same time you would irrigate the rest of your garden.

3. Tree Stump Mushrooms

Growing mushrooms is a weird and wonderful departure from your typical leafy greens.

You probably already know you can use cut hardwood logs to grow an array of delicious gourmet mushrooms. There’s not much to stop you from giving your tree stump the same mushroom-inoculation treatment.

For the best results, your stump would need to be in a shady to dappled sunlight location. It’s also best if the stump comes from a hardwood tree. As long as yours meets these requirements, a tree stump is a great option as a fungi-growing medium.

The steps for growing mushrooms on a tree stump are the same as wooden logs. Drill holes in the wood in a checkerboard pattern and plug them up with shiitake, oyster, lion’s mane, reishi, maitake, or some other wood-loving mushroom spawn. Seal the plugs with wax and keep the wood moist.

There’s another added bonus for growing mushrooms on tree stumps. As the mushrooms develop, they absorb nutrients from the decaying wood. This will help rot down that tree stump much more quickly.

4. Wildlife Waterer

A tree stump is fairly boring and uninteresting on its own. But you can slap a watering station on top to instantly transform it into a lively creature feature for your yard.

A sturdy and flat-topped stump is the perfect natural pedestal for setting out birdbaths and other wildlife watering stations.

It’s about as no-fuss as DIYs go. If you have an old birdbath basin, great! If not, set out a shallow 2-inch deep dish, pan, or bowl on top of the tree stump and fill it up with water. Once the birds have discovered it, it’ll be a delight to watch their frolicking bath time routine.

Pile up some pebbles on one side to make it a welcoming (and safe!) spot for bees and butterflies to indulge in as well.

5. Sundial Mount

Before watches, clocks, and smartphones, sundials were the simple technology used to indicate the time of day.

Using sun and shadow to track the passage of time, sundials aren’t always precise in their time-telling and are totally useless at night. Still, they’re pretty neat.

Sundials will add interest to your garden décor and can come in handy when you need a gist of the hour – especially if you often lose track of time working in the garden.

A tree stump that’s located in a sunny and open area is an ideal spot for mounting a sundial. For the most accurate time reading, the top of the stump should be perfectly flat and horizontal. If your tree stump isn’t exactly even, use a level and sander to smooth out the surface.

If you don’t have a ready-made sundial squirreled away in your shed, you can make your own from a flat rock.

6. Gnome Home

An absolutely adorable use for a tree stump, a gnome home is sure to add a touch of whimsy and magic to your outdoor spaces.

A gnome home is better suited for larger stumps, at least 4 to 5 feet tall. The top of the trunk is cut at opposite angles to accommodate a pitched roof. With a plywood frame attached to the top, cedar shakes are glued together to create rustic shingles. Use a chainsaw and chisel to cut out a set of stairs, the doorway, and window openings.

Get the basic gnome house structure down, and then it’s all about the fun little details. Carved doors, stained glass windows, tiny wind chimes, twinkling lights, and a wee garden filled with low-growing and colorful blooms are some decorative elements that any imaginary elf would love.

Shorter and narrower tree stumps can become a centerpiece for an equally enchanting fairy garden, too.

7. Tree Stump Tables

It’s not hard to see a table in a tree stump.

These are nature’s tabletops, after all. And when you use your tree stump as the table base, the job’s already halfway done.

The natural beauty of a tree stump table – with its unique markings, knots, and textures – means no two will look alike. If your stump happens to be in a spot that’s ideal for outdoor entertaining, it can readily become a charming and functional piece of furniture.

Smaller stumps can instantly become simple side tables and stools without any special treatment.

For a bigger table to gather round, a wide and sturdy stump can be topped with a large wood slab. Or you can make your own table topper from pallets, barn boards, or other reclaimed materials. Another option is to upcycle a glass or wood top from an old set.

Apply a few coats of wood sealer so your bucolic patio set will last a long time.

8. Games Table

Another brilliant idea for a flat-topped tree stump is to make it into a permanent outdoor gaming table.

Pull up some lawn chairs and keep the little ones entertained with garden-themed tic tac toe. Instead of the usual X’s and O’s, river rocks are painted into cute bumblebees and ladybugs.

For the older kiddos, a stump can be remade into a chess and checkers board with some black paint and masking tape.

9. Treehouse

Who says treehouses can only be built around living trees?

In this DIY, a kids’ playhouse is taken apart and reassembled on top of a tree stump:

Here’s an example of a more elaborate stump house, replete with a suspended bridge, spiral tube slide, screened windows, and a skylight.

Unlike a treehouse constructed in and around a live tree, tree stumps will rot eventually. It can take a decade or more for a stump from a mature tree to begin to deteriorate and render the treehouse structurally unsafe.

By that time, your kids may have already aged out of their love of epic treehouse adventures. You can play it safe by sealing up the stump surface with a coat of household paint or wood preservative to keep moisture and insects out.

10. Tree Stump Sculpture

Where some see an unsightly stump, others see a blank canvas for creating a truly extraordinary masterpiece.

From simple carvings to intricate works of art, a tree stump sculpture will pay proper homage to your old tree’s many years of service.

Hardwood stumps with a good bit of girth and height are the best candidates for sculpting. Bears, eagles, fish, serpents, totems, angels, and mermaids are just some of the forms a stump sculpture can take.

Stump carvings start with a chainsaw to remove the outer bark and give the trunk some basic shaping. Then a hammer and chisel is used to refine the shape and add detail.

Here’s a time-lapse of a wood spirit carved from an 8-foot tall oak stump:

If you’re not comfortable wielding a chainsaw, there’s no shame in hiring this project out. There are plenty of professional tree sculptors out there with the skill and know-how to make your tree stump vision into a reality.

The post 10 Creative Things You Can Do With a Tree Stump appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Keeping your house warm without electricity is a toasty topic that people are searching heatedly nowadays, for good reasons too. Winter is the time of year when temperatures dip down into the single digits, when heavy winds blow, and sometimes it snows.

At the moment, we are experiencing unseasonably warm temperatures with bucketloads of rain. It’s the first time there is standing water in the cellar for years on end.

Typically it would be frozen at this time of winter, but there’s not much we can do about the weather and neither can you. So, as we sit here inside, by the fire, it seemed like a good moment to share a few hacks for keeping you and your family warm and thriving in wintertime.

Then you can let it snow all it wants or just be unseasonably cold as you sip a warming tea or a cup of nourishing broth. At the same time, you can light a beeswax candle and cover yourself with a blanket for some evening reading, offline, of course.

How To Keep Yourself – and Your Home – Warm In Winter

Elizabeth wrote an article about 40 Tricks To Warm Your Home Without Turning Up The Heat. This writing goes more in-depth about passive solar design for warming your home, as well as adding insulation to keep it cozy. Some of these heating tricks take time/money in order to feel the rewards.

Today we are going to focus on winter warming hacks that most likely cost nothing. Plus, they are easy to carry out, and some of them are quite tasty, though you may want to have an exercise program at the back of your mind. Moving your body will help to keep you warm too.

These are the very tips and tricks that we use in our own home throughout the course of a winter. And trust us, if it isn’t cold yet, it will be. There are still two months, or more, of winter.

1. Dress in Layers

If you are a snow enthusiast and are keen on getting outside for winter hikes, you already know about dressing in layers.

It takes a base layer (underwear) to wick sweat from your body. Then you put on a middle (insulating) layer to retain body heat and protect you from cold temperatures. Finally, there is an outer (shell) layer to your attire which protects you from the elements.

When all is said and done, it matters what fibers you are wearing in each layer; you also need to feel comfortable in your layered clothes.

From experience, I can honestly say that a wool/leather vest is a winter lifesaver. Not only is it useful inside the home for the fluctuating temperatures of a wood-fired stove, but it is also the perfect attire for going in and out to collect more firewood too.

2. Wear a Hat, Scarf, Socks or Slippers

I’m going to go out on a limb here and say that in our family, we are barefoot most of the time. Yes, even in winter, to quickly go outside in the snow, to step outside on the porch or to get water from the outside faucet.

Cold exposure is another way of building up your resilience to deal with cool temperatures, but I’ll save the rhetoric for Wim Hof. For most people, cold showers will have to wait till summer or some time later in life.

If it’s truly chilly in your home, don’t be afraid to don a hat, a thick pair of socks or some woolly slippers to keep your body warm. Every little bit helps. In the meantime, keeping yourself warm may lead to a new hobby, such as crocheting or knitting. Those are both fantastic ways to fill the long nights of winter.

Unless you decide to go to your warming bed earlier (between down pillow and comforter, I’m thinking), which is another hack by itself.

3. Cook a Pot of Soup and Bake a Loaf of Bread

Baking will never lead to sauna-like conditions in your home, though the kitchen is often the warmest place to be in winter. So, utilize it as often as you can by cooking at home rather than ordering in. This especially rings true if you have grown a garden and still have fresh vegetables to use up.

Winter is an excellent time to finally use your dehydrated mirepoix and tomato powder in warming soups and stews.

It also gives you a window of opportunity to practice the art of bread baking. Whether you are starting a sourdough from wild yeast or going the easy route with a no-yeast bread.

The scents of a hearty meal will definitely warm your soul.

A couple more warming tips: Don’t forget to leave the oven door open after baking, if it’s safe to do so in the absence of small children and/or pets. And never use your oven as a primary source of heat, ever, especially if it’s burning natural gas – think carbon monoxide levels.

4. Hot Beverages Are a Must

Just as you should be eating hearty soups and stews to stay warm, hot drinks are also a must. The point here is the intake of hot fluids. Seeing as how you can’t eat all day long, it’s good to have a stock of caffeine-free herbal teas to see you through the winter.

Some of my best wild-foraged tea suggestions are:

• nettle
• rosehip
• linden
• plantain
• mint
• red clover
• dandelion leaf and root
• raspberry leaf
• pine needles and spruce tips
• elderflowers
• yarrow
• lemon balm
• sage
• chamomile
• chaga

You can purchase all of these herbs from a natural food store, though it’s empowering to forage them all on your own. Maybe that’s the new skill you need to learn in the new year.

5. Insulate Windows and Doors

Now that you’ve done just about all you can do to keep yourself warm, what about your home?

Are there any small things you can do to make your personal space feel warmer inside? There certainly are.

But let me start by saying that there is still a time and place, even in winter, to open your windows. To keep illnesses at bay, it’s wise to open your windows wide each and every day for a period of at least 5-10 minutes. This gives the stagnant air a quick flush without reducing the inside temperature too much.

Then, shut them tight. Put a cushion or blanket inside the windows, on the window sill, to prevent cold drafts from winds coming in the cracks.

It’s also worth noting the heat that your home can harness from the sun. As soon as the sun comes up, open up those curtains and raise the blinds and allow the light to shine in. When the sun is beginning to set, close those same curtains and blinds to prevent the heat from escaping. Good quality (thick, floor-length) curtains will go a long way in keeping your house warmer.

If you don’t have those, you can also hang extra towels or blankets over a curtain rod as a temporary solution. Not only will they help to keep the room warmer, but they’ll also block out street lamps, so you can sleep better. A win-win situation if you ask me.

6. Block Off Rooms You Aren’t Using

The goal of keeping your house warm shouldn’t be to try to heat every room. Let’s be serious here; even in castles, they only warmed up the rooms that the owners occupied and which saw guests and visitors. Again, the kitchen was the warmest – it’s always a good place to be.

Given the cost of electricity and gas, it makes perfect sense not to waste energy, although it may take some rearranging on your part.

In our eighty-year-old wooden house, we have two rooms, plus a hallway (which is mainly used as a pantry) and a cellar with access only from the outside. From May through November, all the doors are open. Come wintertime, we close the door of the room that typically acts as a library and bedroom. In winter, this is our “refrigerator”. It’s where lard is stored, as well as cheese, hanging bacon and sausage.

This also means that the room with the fireplace becomes our central place to exist. It’s a home office, study, kitchen, dining room, living room and bedroom combined. I know it may be hard to imagine, but it’s a little bit like Little House on the Prairie.

For the most part, you’ll likely never encounter this situation. However, there is a lesson to be learned. That is, with a little creativity and flexibility, you may not need to heat every room.

7. Move Upstairs

Heat rises, and that’s a fact. In that case, try to move some of your daytime activity upstairs if you have a second floor.

You could move your home office or work area upstairs, perhaps turn a bedroom into a living room or an exercise room, depending on your current situation. Winter often lasts longer than we expect, so be sure to make each space as cozy and inviting as you can.

8. Firewood for Heating

Not everyone will have this option, so it’s nearing the end of the list. Followed by the one thing we all know we should be doing, but always find ways not to do it.

Heating with firewood is generally reserved for those folks who live farther from cities, closer to the source, so to speak. Though it is worth mentioning as a way to help you thrive in winter because not only does it keep you warm once the fire is burning in its place, it warms you throughout the entire process.

As you are stacking the wood, cutting the wood, splitting the wood and carrying the wood, you are getting a meaningful workout. That gives you reason enough to be warm for hours on end.

Heating with wood also allows you to heat for as long as you need the warmth, then let the fire die out, restarting as often as necessary. If you are able to cook over that same fire, that’s even better.

Depending on the type of fireplace you use, you may even get some light out of it, with a reduced need for electricity in the evening hours. Besides, there is the romance of the flame. There’s something about a softly glowing and crackling fire that not even beeswax candles can touch. Though candles are wonderful for small spaces and for lifting your mood, so go ahead and burn them anyway.

Additional articles related to wood heating:

• 10 Smart Ways of Collecting Free Firewood
• How to Properly Season & Store Firewood
• 10 Beautiful & Practical Firewood Racks for Indoor & Outdoor Storage

9. For Better or Worse – Exercise

One of the best ways to help you stay warm and thrive in winter is to exercise. I know you probably don’t want to hear that, but it’s absolutely true.

If you aren’t getting enough time outdoors in nature, you have to bring your physical activity indoors. After all, moving your body generates body heat. You could row, use a stair climber or utilize any number of machines. Heck, you can even dance around the house in all those layers, perhaps with some weights on your ankles for an added benefit.

You can also do these exercises while the windows are open, so that you inhale fresh air while working out.

Bottom line – move around. Your body will thank you for it.

If you really want to warm up your house, invite a bunch of friends over for dinner and a movie night. The physical warmth may be temporary, yet the memory will last forever.

The post 9 Simple Tips To Stay Warm & Cozy This Winter appeared first on Rural Sprout.

The act of decorating your home for the holidays, particularly your front door, has been around since time began. Or at least for several hundred years prior to today.

If you look into the history of wreaths, you’ll find at least two answers to where they originated from. Some thoughts speculate that ancient Romans and Greeks used them first, in honoring their most esteemed citizens. Wreaths denoted your occupation and status as a citizen. Wreaths of laurel were used to crown the victorious players in the first Olympic Games.

The word wreath, by itself, literally means “a thing bound around”. It also represents eternal life.

The very first Christmas wreaths came from the pagan tradition of celebrating Yule, in which evergreens were twisted into a circle to symbolize the eternal seasonal cycle. The greenery served as a reminder of spring and green growing things in the coldest and darkest months of the year.

And it was a Lutheran pastor who gave Christians their Advent wreath in the mid-1800s. Pastor Johann Hinrich Wichern made a wreath using the wheel from a cart to help children count down the time of advent until Christmas. He added candles to mark the weekday and larger colored candles to mark each Saturday in the season of Advent.

While we can’t know the exact beginnings of this tradition, hanging a wreath is a beautiful symbol of meaning and belief for many.

What we do know, however, is how a well-decorated door makes us feel. A wreath offers happiness and hominess upon arrival for family and friends alike. It makes us feel welcome as it invites us into the warm spaces of inner peace (hopefully).

You might even say that wreaths have their own right to be created, and exist, simply because they are beautiful.

Gather up some energy to go for a walk and head out into the hills, or your backyard, to collect some wreath-making materials.

Natural Materials For Making Wreaths

When you keep your eyes open, you are bound to find something in nature to add to a decorative wreath.

Here are some natural materials to look out for when you take a countryside or urban hike:

• evergreen branches (pine, spruce, cedar, juniper, holly, ivy)
• berries (rose hips, viburnum, hawthorn, winterberry)
• pinecones
• other interesting branches, such as twigs with catkins from hazel bushes
• mistletoe – if not for the wreath, then for kissing underneath

Check out 9 Plants to Forage For Natural Christmas Decorations for more ideas.

Once you’ve collected your natural materials, and plenty of them, so you don’t have to head out in the cold again, you are ready to choose a frame for your festive wreath.

Choosing A Wreath Frame + Other Tools Needed For Wreath-Making

In this pictorial, we have used grapevines as a base material, though you can replace this with willow or hazel twigs, or any other vining material (wisteria, honeysuckle, etc.) that lends itself to weaving.

To make our wreath making even easier, we’ve used the grapevine wreath that already hangs on our door. You’ll see that we’ve spruced it up to add more winter cheer.

You can also start with a wire wreath frame should you have one.

Always challenge yourself to be creative, thrifty and self-reliant whenever possible. Not only will your projects turn out beautiful, but you also have the potential to save some money. This wreath cost us nothing to make. Only time, attention and collected materials went into it.

After a short hike in the hills, armed with only a pair of pruners, we came back with a bag of greens, twigs and berries. The pine cones we collected on a previous trip to a city park.

To make a wreath, in addition to your natural materials, you’ll also need:

• pruners
• scissors
• florist wire or twine

And that’s it.

There’s no need for hot glue, you don’t even need to use wire if you don’t want to. A nice thick hemp or jute twine will be strong enough.

You might also want to wear gloves, as certain evergreen branches can be quite poky, even causing a rash if you have sensitive skin.

Putting Your Wreath Together

You don’t need to decide at the beginning if you want your greens to wrap all the way around, or just partway around the wreath.

Simply choose a starting point and prepare a small bundle of greens, always looking for the best proportion.

For example, in each bundle, we used 2 or 3 European spruce (Picea abies) branches, cut to size. On top of this, we laid either one branch of ivy (Hedera helix), a branch of hazel catkins, or a branch of red berries from a European cranberry bush (Viburnum opulus).

To increase your love for the Earth – and for foraging, it’s always good to get to know the plants you are harvesting and to recognize them by their Latin names too.

Tie the bundle firmly together with twine. Then tie it onto your wreath frame, pulling as tightly as you can. Once the branches begin to dry, they will shrink a bit and become loose, so now is the time to use your strength.

Adding More Bundles To The Wreath

Systematically, you’ll want to tie additional bundles and overlap each bundle on the wreath.

Some people choose to tie one straight, followed by the next one tipped to the outside, followed by the third leaning in. We’ve laid all bundles directly over the previous one. It all depends on the material you are working with.

Once you’ve tied a few bundles on your wreath frame, hang it up and take a step back to check your progress. If you aren’t happy with the way they are tied on, now is the time to change it.

If you love it, continue going around until you run out of materials or you find a nice balance to the wreath.

Another thing you may need to consider is weight. The more bundles you add, the heavier your wreath will grow.

A word on tying…

Most wreath-making tutorials tell you to wrap that twine or wire all the way around from first to final bundle, with no stops in between.

We’ve chosen to tie each bundle on individually and the end result came out fantastic.

Finishing and Tidying Up Your Wreath

In the end, you can trim up the unruly bits with a quick snip of your pruners. Be sure to hang the wreath in its set location before cutting off too much, if any at all.

If your wreath calls for more berries, tie the individual stems in.

Last, but not least, come the pine cones.

You can also tie them on one-by-one. Take a long piece of twine, fold it in half to find the center, and push it under the flaps near the base of the cone. From here you can tie a knot to secure it, then tie it in place on the wreath.

Add as many as you like, being sure to find a harmonious balance between size and shape.

In the end, if you have leftover materials, go ahead and make a mini-wreath, to bring some festive greenery to the inside of your home.

See, all it takes is a few trimmed branches from an evergreen to fill your home with holiday cheer. Wishing many Happy Holidays to you and yours!

The post Make a Beautiful Wreath With Greenery From Your Own Backyard appeared first on Rural Sprout.

The kitchen is a great place to start if you’re looking for ways to cut the amount of waste your household produces. You already know what to do with all those old coffee grounds, but what if you’re a tea-drinking household?

Used tea leaves are pretty useful around the home and garden, so before you open the trash bin, here are 30 clever uses for used tea bags.

Body and Beauty

1. Banish Puffy Eyes

Whether you had a poor night of sleep or a great night on the town, puffy eyes in the morning are never a good look. Moisten used tea bags and place them over your eyelids or just below your eyes. Now spend the next five minutes meditating on how grateful you are for tannins that help reduce puffiness and caffeine’s antioxidant properties, which your skin is absorbing. Voila! Who went to bed at 2:00 on a work night? Not you.

2. Soothe Itchy Bug Bites

Tannins do wonderful things for the skin. They act as an astringent, which is great news when you’ve got an itchy bug bite. Place a warm tea bag on the bite to help draw out the toxins which cause the itch while simultaneously soothing the bite. Be sure you use black tea, as that is where the tannins come from.

3. Treat a Sunburn

Gently swipe sunburned skin with a cool, wet chamomile or black tea bag to bring relief. If your skin is especially tender, soak the used tea bags in a cup of water and put the water in the fridge. You can use a clean spray bottle to spritz the cold, weak tea solution onto sunburned skin.

4. Poison Ivy Rash Relief

For much the same reason tea soothes bug bites, it can also relieve poison ivy itch. Steep used black tea bags in a cup of warm water, then put the weak tea solution in the fridge to cool. Spray the cold tea onto the affected areas and allow it to dry. Don’t rub the areas, as you can make the rash worse.

5. Make Pimples Disappear Faster

Place a warm, damp tea bag on a pimple to bring it to a head. A warm tea bag compress can also bring relief from painful cystic acne. The antimicrobial properties in the tannins in black tea are great for the skin, and a weak tea solution makes a great facial toner to prevent breakouts. Green tea is the perfect tea to use on the skin.

6. Clarifying and Conditioning Hair Treatment

If you use any hair products to style your hair, it’s important to clarify your hair and scalp at least once a month to remove build-up. A great way to know when it’s time to clarify is if your normal styling products don’t seem as effective as they normally are.

Use spent tea bags to brew up a clarifying and conditioning hair tea. Using both black tea and herbal teas adds a double bonus for hair. The tannins in black tea will gently break down any product build-up on the hair and scalp, and if you use an herbal tea like chamomile or peppermint, both are great for your hair, leaving it smooth and shiny

Pour the tea onto washed, wet hair and massage it into your scalp before rinsing with cool water. For best results, allow the tea to sit on your hair and scalp for a few minutes before rinsing.

7. Herbal Tea Bath

Soften and soothe your skin with your favorite herbal teas. If you’re an herbal tea drinker, you’ve probably already noticed how many herbs that are good to drink are equally good for your skin. Save your tea bags for a soothing aromatherapy bath.

8. Natural Mouthwash

If you’re not a huge fan of the mouth-burning minty mouthwash options on the market, there is a better way. Create a natural mouthwash using spent tea bags. Tea has natural antimicrobial properties, and it’s the bacteria hanging out in our mouths that leads to bad breath. Brew up a weak tea solution to rinse and gargle with after you brush for fresh breath without the burn.

9. Clean Smelly Hands

If you’ve been chopping up onions and garlic for your favorite dish or handling fish or seafood, you know how hard it can be to get those smells off your hands. Regular hand soap won’t do it. Wet a tea bag and scrub your skin with it. The black tea will deodorize your hands in no time, then simply wash your hands with regular soap.

10. Honey Tea Mask

Whether it’s black tea, green tea or herbal tea, they’re nearly all good for your skin. If you want to treat yourself to a quick and easy spa day at home, mix the tea leaves from a spent tea bag with two tablespoons of honey. Gently rub the mixture on your face and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Rinse with cool water and moisturize. Avoid using teas with spices like cinnamon or black pepper, as these can irritate the tender skin on your face.

11. Soothe Your Aching Dogs

If you’ve been on your feet all day, there’s nothing more relaxing than a good foot soak. Add in a couple of used black tea bags, and the tannins will help to soften and deodorize your feet. If you’ve got a used peppermint tea bag, toss it in for a cool and refreshing foot soak.

12. Herbal Tea Facial

Fill a bowl with boiling water, then add your leftover herbal and green tea bags. Place a towel over your head and lean over the hot water allowing the steam to open your pores. Breathe in the scent of the herbs in your tea. Ahhhh, that’s better. The oils from the herbs are carried on the steam, infusing your skin with a trace of soothing chamomile, green tea, peppermint or whatever herbal tea you use.

In the Home

13. Refrigerator Refresher

Black tea is great at absorbing odors, so tuck a few used tea bags in a jar and place it in the back of your fridge. The leaves will lock in odors and absorb extra moisture to keep your fridge fresh and tidy. You can always add more bags as you use them, but change them up every couple of weeks for the best results.

14. Get Sparkling Clean Glass

If you want clean windows and mirrors without the smell of ammonia or vinegar, grab a few used tea bags. Moisten them and use them to clean the glass or brew a weak tea to spray on and wipe off. Hint – paper coffee filters are awesome for cleaning glass and don’t leave lint or streaks behind.

15. Add Flavor to Pasta and Grains

Use tea bags to flavor pasta, rice, quinoa and even oatmeal. Add tea bags to the water when making your pasta or grains to add subtle flavor to your dishes. Get creative; the possibilities are endless – chamomile quinoa, cinnamon spice oatmeal, and Earl Grey rice are just a few suggestions to get you started.

16. Peppermint Tea to Deter Mice

If you enjoy peppermint tea, stash your dried peppermint tea bags in your pantry, in the dark corner of your cabinet, under the sink and anywhere else mice might like to hide. The strong smell of peppermint is a natural deterrent to these tiny little critters.

If you don’t drink peppermint tea, that’s okay too. Dab peppermint essential oil or extract onto dried black tea bags. They’re just as effective.

17. Carpet Freshener

Ditch those horribly-perfumed powdered carpet refreshers and opt for something more natural (and free). Save your used tea bags and allow them to dry until they are slightly damp. Open the tea bags and sprinkle the damp tea leaves over your carpet. Allow them to dry out overnight. As they dry, they will absorb odors in your carpet. Vacuum up the tea leaves the next morning, and you’ll have a fresh-smelling carpet.

18. Litter Box Deodorizer

Sprinkle dry tea leaves in your cat’s litter. The natural deodorizing qualities of black tea can help to control one of the most pronounced pet smells. Of course, this won’t eliminate the smell; the only way to do that is to be diligent in keeping a tidy litter box. However, adding tea leaves can go a long way in helping to minimize the smell of cat urine.

19. Save Elbow Grease by Cutting the Grease

Soak a few used tea bags in your dishwater to add the power of tannins to your suds. Tannins naturally break down grease, making doing the dishes less of a chore. You can even use the tea bags to scrub your pots and pans.

20. Clean and Shine Wood Floors

Using tea to shine and clean wood floors is an age-old secret. Black tea brings out the beauty in wood flooring and leaves it super shiny without making it too slick to walk on. Steep your used tea bags in hot water and at it to your mop bucket, or spray directly on the floor before wiping off. You can also use it to clean and shine wood furniture.

21. Create “Antique” Crafts

If you do any needlepoint or paper crafts, you can use spent tea bags to create pieces with an aged, antique look. Soak your needlework fabric in water with a couple of used tea bags to give the fabric a slightly yellowed look. If it’s uneven, so much the better.

You can also create yellowed paper by brushing a weak tea solution onto cardstock and paper. This gives the project a look of being much older than it is.

22. Tenderize Meat

Use a cup of water, a used black tea bag, and your favorite herbs and spices to create the perfect marinade. Not only will it flavor the meat, but the tea’s tannic acid will help tenderize even the toughest cuts of meat.

23. Clean a Smelly Cutting Board

It’s important to take good care of wooden cutting boards if you want them to last. If you have a cutting board that smells like onions or garlic after your best efforts to clean it, don’t despair. Use a warm, damp tea bag and wipe down the entire surface of the cutting board. Let the tea-soaked board air dry. Bye-bye, stinky board.

24. Herbal Sachets

Save spent herbal tea bags to scent drawers and closets. Be sure the bags are completely dry before tucking them in the back of a drawer or closet shelf. Use a few black tea bags for their natural deodorizing properties.

25. Protect Cast Iron with Black Tea

If you own a cast iron teapot, you already know that the tannins in tea prevent it from rusting. Keep your cast iron looking great by wiping the entire surface with a slightly damp tea bag. Use this trick each time you’ve washed and dried your cast iron skillet, or use it before putting away pieces you don’t use that often.

26. Easy Tea bag Fire Starters

If you love camping or have a fireplace at home, this tip is for you. Make fire starters using dried tea bags and paraffin wax. Be sure the tea bags are completely dry first, then dip them into melted paraffin and lay them on a sheet of parchment paper or tin foil. Once the wax is set up, store your fire starters in a tin or baggie. These are especially great when you use old cinnamon tea bags.

27. Deodorize Stinky Shoes

A dried tea bag tucked into each shoe is a great way to help absorb extra moisture after wearing them. The tea leaves are also a natural deodorizer and will help to keep stinky foot odors at bay. Just don’t forget to remove the tea bags before your wear your shoes.

Around the Garden & Outside

28. Fungal Plant Protection

Prevent fungal diseases before they start by spraying plant leaves and watering the soil with a weak tea solution. The tannins will prevent the growth of many fungal diseases. This works well both in the garden and in your houseplants.

29. Car Air Freshener

Tuck dry tea bags under each seat in your car for a natural air freshener. Not only will you enjoy the smell of whatever tea you use, but the leaves will help absorb odor and moisture in your car. If you want something with a bit more scent, dab your favorite essential oil on the tea bag first. You get a burst of fragrance and a deodorizer in one.

30. Compost

Anyone with a sharp eye will notice that most ideas for reusing spent tea bags still land you with a used tea bag when you’re done. And you would be right. When you’re finished giving your tea bags another go, you can always compost them.

Granted, some tea bags can’t be composted; I’m looking at you, fancy plastic tea pyramids. But more and more tea manufacturers are switching to tea bags that can be composted, so always read your packaging first.

The post 30 Brilliant Ways To Reuse Tea Bags Around Your Home & Garden appeared first on Rural Sprout.

Caring for a compost pile is much like tending a garden. We feed it, we water it, we give it good airflow. And in return, we get to see the magic of our kitchen scraps and yard waste transform into rich and loamy humus before our very eyes.

Compost is ready to harvest when it has a dark and crumbly texture and an earthy scent. The particles should be mostly indiscernible, but it doesn’t need to be perfect. Stringy, sticky, and lumpy compost is fine for the taking too.

Sifting the compost will help keep larger pieces – like sticks, stones, and bones – out of the final product.

It’s not an imperative to sift and you can certainly use less than pristine compost right away. But sifting does create a most wonderfully light and fluffy compost that is easier to spread around the garden.

Materials:

• 4 lengths of 2×4 lumber, cut to size                         
• Hardware cloth, 1” or 1/2” mesh
• Deck screws, 3” long
• Fence staples, 3/4″

Assemble the Sifter Frame

The size of the compost sifter will entirely depend on what you’ll be sifting the compost into. Whether it’s a plastic tote, a garden cart, or a wheelbarrow, you can make the sifter any dimensions you like.

In general, a 36” x 24” sifter will provide a good surface area for processing the compost.

I’ll be sifting my compost into a wheelbarrow, and this particular wheelbarrow has rounded sides. I want the sifter frame to sit flat so I measured the size of the tub, then added a few inches to length and subtracted a few inches from the width.

I ended up with a finished frame size of 36” x 18.5”.

Once you’ve measured twice and cut once, position the wood pieces into a frame shape with the wide sides facing out.

Then drill 2 deck screws in each corner to hold it all together.  

Attach the Hardware Cloth

The mesh size of the hardware cloth will determine how fine or coarse the finished compost will be.

I’m using 1/2” x 1/2” mesh to make a finer compost, but a larger 1”x 1” gauge would make processing go faster by allowing bigger materials through the screen.

Roll out the hardware cloth over the frame. Start in one corner and hammer in a fence staple.

Working your way outwards, keep the screen taut while affixing staples to the mesh every 3 inches or so.

After you’ve finished stapling the last side, use wire cutters to snip off the remaining hardware cloth.

The cut ends of the hardware cloth are very sharp. Use a hammer all around the edges of the frame to tamp down the tines so you don’t get snagged.

Using the Compost Sifter

Flip the sifter over so the screen runs along the bottom of the frame.

Dump 2 to 3 shovelfuls of compost to the sieve. Take care not to toss in too much at a time, as it’ll only make it trickier to sift without spilling it over the sides.

Spread the compost out over the sifter with your hands. Breaking up clumps as you go, push the compost all around the screen. Use back-and-forth and circular motions to work it through the squares.

The smaller particles will fall into the tub and the larger debris will stay on top of the screen.

The undigested bits will go right back into the compost heap to continue breaking down. For now, I’ll put them aside and toss them back into the pile once the bin has been emptied and all the compost has been sifted.

Running your hands through sifted compost is oddly satisfying – it’s so soft and luxurious!

Use your freshly harvested compost right away to make new garden beds or recharge the soil in existing ones. It’s a top notch ingredient in potting soil and seed starting mixes, too.

You can also set some aside for later use by bagging it up and stowing it in a cool, dry place. Leave the tops of the bags open and exposed to air. Every so often, check to make sure the compost is still slightly moist.

Homemade compost is teeming with microbial life and a broad spectrum of nutrients. It will be at its best for 3 to 6 months post-harvesting so make sure to use it up as soon as you can.

Read Next:

13 Common Things You Should Never Compost

The post How to Easily Make a Compost Sifter – No DIY Skills Required appeared first on Rural Sprout.